ls973800

That's too strange! I was just looking at eBay and saw those listed. I was interested in seeing what they looked like. Not too bad! Wonder if the company will make a 20" size to fit the chrome clad wheels that many owner's have suffered curb rash with? Sure would be a much cheaper fix than having to buy a new wheel!

As far as I know, the Edge uses 5X114.3 bolt pattern on all models. The only difference is the hub bore size between the 2011 and newer versus the 2010 and older models. The 2011 and newer use a smaller diameter which will not fit the 2010 and older, unless you machine the hub to a larger size. A larger hub size can be used IF you can find the proper hub centric rings sold aftermarket. Make sure whatever wheels you purchase have the correct hub bore size for your model. The 2010 and older uses a size of 70.5mm and the 2011 and newer use 63.4mm. I know owner's here have regularly installed the 22" sport rims onto their non Sport models, replacing the factory wheels with no problems regarding offset. You going the opposite way and installing smaller rims should have no problems as long as you stay within the factory spec range of 40 or so offset. How much you can deviate from that, I really don't know.

I've had the same problem with my 2013 since the day I bought it. I always come up about 3 or 4 gallons short of a full tank. I set the auto pump on the slowest setting it will go. I have owned it now for about 15 months and 19000 miles. Just today I checked the fuel used reading (14.5) and the pump shut off at 11.9 I had to keep squeezing it in until I finally filled it at 14.6. I never overfilled or got any gas coming out of the filler or vent. I will check the vent tube also now that I see that mentioned. It perhaps could have a restriction from the factory, but I really don't think so.

You need a hub centric ring which will allow the larger 2009 wheel to be used on the smaller 2011 hub. You can try doing a Google search for "hub centric rings", contact Tire Rack, or check with a local aftermarket wheel seller to find the size you need. Personally, I would try and find the correct wheels (2011 and newer, Ford Flex wheels, etc) The 2010 and older wheels also used a different type of TMPS which was held onto the wheel with a band. The 2011 and newer sensors are just held in place with a nut and the wheel stem. I also believe a different frequency was used in the 2010 and older vehicles compared to what is used in the 2011 and newer models. The speedometer will almost be a perfect match between the factory 18 inch size tire and the factory 20 inch size tire because of the tire ratio and aspects that Ford installs. Use this calculator to see what different ratios and aspects will do in your case if you don't use the factory size options. http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculator

My 2013 will not remain at 5% either after being shut off. It always defaults to 100% and I have to manually turn it down. I've always used the blue color and have never tried leaving a different color setting.

One of the professional detailer's tips I've read is to use a fabric softener sheet to remove bugs from chrome and paint. You moisten the sheet and wipe away the bugs and guts. Don't see how it would hurt the bug screen for the BAMR since that is a fabric.

Well, grab a cup or glass of your favorite beverage, and start reading these over 900 posts about a smell under acceleration on the new body style Explorer! Smells range from oil, sulfur, exhaust, or just a burning smell. A lot of owner's have the problem, compared to only a few I've seen posted on the Edge forum here. The latest fix was to modify some type of exhaust vents at the rear of the vehicle per several TSB's issued. Not a 100% fix per some owner's who had it done. That TSB is 12-12-04, and I believe there was another one TSB 12-12-08? I can't find the actual TSB yet on line, but it is explained in great detail in the Explorer posts. http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=323597&highlight=oil+smell

NO, these are not mine but I found them on the local (Dallas) Craigslist. I know these wheels are pretty desirable and I have never seen a set of four of them with tires for this low of a price. Just passing this on if anyone is interested in them. I have NOTHING to do with this item. http://dallas.craigslist.org/dal/pts/4072253411.html

There was a post about the lights being changed. I think you have to actually use heat or a knife to swap them out if I recall correctly. Remember, SEARCH is your friend! http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11985-my-homemade-led-puddle-lights/?hl=%2Bpuddle+%2Blights

As I was typing my response, I noticed a new reply was just made. I also was asking what was the original cause of the battery fuse blowing. Was it the DRL themselves, or the way you worked with the wires while hooking up the DRL? Did you short out a wire while working on them? Or did the fuse blow after the install and you turned on the lights?

My Sunroof as well started going a lot slower awhile ago, then week ago it started that pulsating to close & open. If I read this correctly, you had advanced warning that your sunroof wasn't working properly, but ignored it until now when it has stopped working altogether? Now you want to complain about the car? I hope you are able to get this taken care of with little or no cost out of your pocket.

Dan, another dozen times or so of backing up, and you might actually be able to hit just the driveway instead of the corners and the grass! Seriously, nice looking lights. The brake lights don't look very red. Is it just the video or is there some amber in there also?

Right, all of the overseas car mechanics here in America have been laid off and are collecting unemployment checks due to lack of repairs needed on their brand of cars. My statement is as asinine as the one you posted! My one next door neighbor was a certified Honda master mechanic and was always bitching about all the extra hours he had to work (Saturdays and Sundays) to keep up with all of the broken down Hondas. They had plenty of mechanics, but too many cars needing repair.

Collapsing brake hose which isn't allowing the brake fluid to be pushed back out of the caliper and the caliper is sticking? Bad proportioning valve or master cylinder which is causing continuous pressure to just that one line?

That's fantastic drpepper! I just tried that number from my home phone and had multiple choices including business search, weather, traffic, sports, etc. I used my home phone because I read that the services are tied into your cell phone which maintains the account in the car. No trouble with getting info using just the home phone, and they even went to the weather for my city and state without me inputting anything. It must be caller ID which allowed that. Since the home phone is probable tied to my Sync account somewhere, I also had my wife try the number with her cell phone. That phone is not linked to Ford or Sync in any way. It worked just fine, and we did a business search with no problem. It even offered turn by turn directions, but I didn't pursue it past that. Looks like the only services you might lose after the first 3 years and no renewal will be the health report?

I've down my own maintenance on all of my cars for the last 45 years. I do it because I know how to do it, I enjoy doing it, and I can inspect other things while I'm doing it. I also know that it is done correctly and no short cuts were taken. With that said, there have been a few times in the last several years I have taken advantage of the Ford Works package at the local dealer. For $29.95 plus tax (after a $10.00 rebate) I get 5 quarts of FMC synthetic blend 5W20 oil, a FL500S oil filter, and tire rotation. I also get a multi-point inspection including brake condition and thickness, battery charge and condition, etc. Sure beats doing that in my garage using some floor jacks when the temperature is over 100 degrees. I've also had it done when I've been working out of state and the 5000 mile interval came due. I'm really not saving that much money when I do it myself, so I don't mind when I do have to have a dealership do it, as long as they have the $29.95 after rebate Works Package deal.

That's my understanding. You will not have the services available such as business search, turn by turn, etc. I believe the annual cost is $60.00 per year after the 3 years are up. I recall reading somewhere (here or on a F150 forum) that there is a number similar to the one used for services you can call and there is no charge. Still having over 1 1/2 years of the free services, I didn't jot it down or bookmark it. I'll have to find it and see what the difference really is.

I was talking about the difference in the way the panels are shaped by the vents. Looks like the vents themselves may be in the same location, but I don't see how the one panel would cover all of the door frame with the different shape.

Looks like the front panels are shaped differently by the vent that directs air to the side windows. I don't see how that would cover all of the door frame if they were switched.

If the new model year (2014 or 2015) doesn't come out until spring of 2014, that would make the 2013 models almost two years on the market! I purchased my 2013 in July of 2012. I don't see how they wouldn't at least slip a 2014 year designation on the remaining models until the new design ones come out. Heck, who would buy a 2013 model year in February of 2014 unless there was a heck of a discount on it, even if there were no 2014 models.

Glad to hear that everything seems to be working now as it should. I never checked the price of those navigation add ons for other than the USA. Hopefully it will be just an SD card for your vehicle once Ford starts selling them (EDGE's) in Europe.

Off topic perhaps, but I just saw this post on a F150 forum about a firm in Germany which can add navigation maps for Europe, Aisa, etc. Your the only one I know that is over there and I don't even know if you have nav in your car. http://www.f150online.com/forums/2009-2013-f-150/490530-navigation-outside-states.html

Who did the brake job for you? Perhaps they saw the light on and reset it using a known good tool? You mentioned that your tool was only showing a red light, not a green one. I see no way the brake part replacements would have reset your sensor.

I installed the factory sensors from my 2013 into some different wheels. When I put those onto the Edge, I drove about 8 miles and the TPMS light remained on. However, once I got onto a freeway and hit over 60 MPH, the light went off. I have since rotated the tires several times and the light has never come back on. If your stored tires have had the sensors set to the vehicle once, I think they will automatically be recognized after some driving, especially if you have a 2011 or newer model. I am not sure about the older style sensors used in the 2010 and older models.