ls973800

Just bringing this post back to life for some of us new owner's. I just ordered 2 of the ATP FA-14 carbon cabin filters from Rock Auto. They were $10.37 each. I also ordered a Motorcraft Oil Filter FL500S and a carbon cabin filter for my wife's MDX. Shipping for the 4 items was a very reasonable $5.60 to the Dallas area. If interested, you can use this code to receive another 5% off your purchase. I got it off the net and it worked for me. Just enter the numbers in the area on the ordering page that asks How did you hear about us, or something to that effect. 1683982114087912

That procedure will place your car into the "learning" mode, but will not reset any of the TPMS sensors without use of a reset tool. Try stopping at a Discount Tire store. They might reset the sensor or test it with their tool to make sure the sensor itself is still good.

That price sounds very good. Having an inspection is a good idea, but perhaps he would allow you to take it yourself? Allows you some time alone with the vehicle and the mechanic. You will be a little more willing to ask questions and to look closely at things. Good luck!

I had a hard petal and could almost stop until a couple days ago, they went. I flew thru a stop sign. It amazes me how many people IGNORE a serious symptom such as a hard brake pedal which could almost stop! They say it was like that until a couple days ago when the brakes finally failed! People like this are driving around every day risking themselves and others!

Here is a link to a free on line public library access to the Chilton service manuals. Not all models, makes, and years are there yet, but many are. Once on the following link, scroll to the bottom of the page and click on the area that says "infotrac.galegroup." etc. That takes you to the next page where you click proceed. You are then on othe page where you enter your year, make, and model. Enjoy! http://hmcpl.org/databases/auto-repair-reference-center

What is the actual price they are asking for the 2010? NADA, Edmond's, Kelley Blue Book, etc are just a guide. I read that one way to get a true idea of what a vehicle is worth is to look on eBay at completed sales and see what the prices were on those. That's a real world indication of what owner's are selling their vehicles for, and what buyer's are willing to pay. The listed prices really don't give a true indication of worth. The one you are looking at averaged 40-50 thousand miles a year. I understand it was mainly highway miles and well maintained. Those are still a lot of miles on a newer vehicle, and it's a tough call. Really would depend on how cheaply you can buy it for..

I am passing this link forward after finding it on a different site. When you are on the home page, scroll down and click on the area that has http//infotrac.galegroup etc (this link is not click-able on this forum. You must follow the link below and click on the link there. This will allow access to the manual and under repairs you will find how to do a transmission drain or a transmission fluid exchange. http://hmcpl.org/databases/auto-repair-reference-center

That's too funny! When I was checking prices to see what other similar ones had sold for, I went to eBay and found one very similar. It was in Pennsylvania and you being in Texas, I thought no, that can't be the one you are talking about. I found some similar ones here in the Dallas area on other sites, but they weren't exactly like you had listed. I give you credit for buying unseen and not having test driven it, and hope things work out for you. Here's a link showing your original window sticker! http://fordlabels.webview.biz/webviewhybrid/WindowSticker.aspx?vin=2FMDK3J98CBA18898

Gas companies even admit that they buy their gasoline from a pipeline which is shared by other brands. What is different is perhaps the additives that those companies add after they get their gas. Even Quik Trip which is a top tier gasoline supplier admits they do not refine their own gasoline. Where does QuikTrip get its gasoline? QuikTrip is an American-owned, privately held company with a 50-year history in the convenience store/gasoline retail industry. The gasoline and diesel fuel we offer to our customers is purchased from various refineries all located in the U.S. There have recently been a number of questions raised about whether QuikTrip buys gasoline from Middle Eastern or South American countries. We do not purchase any crude oil or have any influence on the purchasing decisions made by the companies who own the refineries. As an independent marketer, we do not operate any pipelines or terminals; we are strictly a retailer of quality motor fuels and convenience items to consumers in our markets. All gasoline marketers in the United States get their gasoline from various terminals in their cities. This gasoline has been mixed in pipelines with gasoline from a number of refineries. Although we may purchase our gasoline from a specific refiner, the gasoline we actually pull out of the pipeline is really generic. Even retail outlets of major oil companies end up drawing their gasoline out of the same pipeline as everyone else. I just returned from a 3000 mile trip with 95% open interstate highway both ways. I cruised at 70 MPH (5 MPH under the limit) and averaged 24.5 mpg with the first 3 fill ups. My last fill up was with Shell and the mileage went down to 20.1! Same driving conditions, same road, etc. It was definitely something with the gasoline from Shell. This was with our other car, not the Edge.

Curious if this is a Ford dealership or not? I'm asking because if it is, you should be able to get it as a CPO and get the extra warranty that comes with it. If you have the VIN number handy, try entering it into a Google search. Sometimes it will return a free history report. Sounds and looks like a pretty good price. It is lacking the navigation and the sunroof which really adds to these models, and which many buyers want. If you aren't interested in those, I wouldn't hesitate to follow up on it.

The sync services call for me are limited to 20 per year with my free 3 year trial. I am talking only about operator assisted calls. I have unlimited calls to the business search, map downloads, etc as long as I don't connect with a live operator. I have done numerous business searches and downloads but never made a call for a live operator. I didn't use any of the 20 free calls the first year of ownership and don't know if I lost them or if they carry over to this second year. I just found the information on syncmyride and they are still showing me with all 60 operator assisted calls. I "renewed" back in July (no cost, just had to "renew" for the second year).

How often did you rotate the tires?

omar302, that says brake PADS and LININGS, not rotors. The other consideration is that the original poster is in Canada, not the US.

I don't know if warranty is different in Canada as to what a dealer will or will not do. I have read posts on this forum from US owner's who have had rotors replaced under warranty at no cost. I have also read about owner's who had to pay to have them replaced, even when within the new car warranty period. I've never really looked into what mileage limits may or may not be in place for the rotors. I would suggest you contact a customer service rep office for Ford in Canada. Perhaps they can help you better. Sounds like the dealer did a check of the rotors and found them out of spec. How this could have mimicked whatever problem your brake booster was causing is hard to imagine. Was your brake pedal giving funny vibrations, or hard and soft pedal when applying the brakes? This is usually a problem with the rotors which can be cured in many cases by turning them, unless they are way out of specs. I don't know if a leaking or failing brake booster would cause a similar complaint, perhaps the pedal feel being different during braking. How soon after the rotors were replaced was the booster replace? If within a week or so, I think you might have a good argument. If you noticed no difference with the new rotors but continued to drive for a while, that might be a factor not in your favor.

Care to share what the issue was that needed attention? Perhaps someone else had the same problem and has documents that it was covered under warranty. Your current vehicle shows a 2013 SEL, I can't think of too many things not under warranty unless you are over the mileage/kilometer limit.

When I test drove several new Edges last July, I noticed that if I took my foot off the brake to coast, the car would slow down quickly. It felt as if there was a drag on the car brakes, even though I was not touching the brakes. The salesman said it was due to the 20" tires and wheels. I bought an Edge and within a day or two of owning it and reading the owner's manual, I learned that the drag effect was actually something to do with conserving fuel. It even said in the manual it would feel like the brakes were being applied. How for the life of me slowing a car down (using the transmission I assume) instead of letting it roll unencumbered like most cars and trucks do saves fuel is beyond me. I am not one for shifting into "N" to coast, and the slowing down is something I have gotten used to. I'm pleased with the MPG of my FWD Limited, but would it get better MPG if it could coast more instead of being restrained? Anyone know the logic of slowing the car down?

Happy to hear it was taken care of quickly for you. Was it covered under any warranty or the TSB? I know you said you just purchased it used, but it sure would be nice if it was covered for you.

Because of the way Ford has selected the tire sizes from the factory, the 20 and 18 inch wheels are almost identical regarding speedometer readout, revolutions per mile, and height. There is hardy any noticeable difference between the factory 20 and 18 inch wheel/tire combination. To see what the differences are stepping up to a 22 inch wheel, use this tire calculator. Input the proper size tires or other optional sizes to see the differences. http://www.1010tires.com/Tools/Tire-Size-Calculator Don't forget that since you have a 2011 model, your hub wheel opening is smaller than the 2010 and older models. You can put those wheels on if you use the proper hub centric rings that are available. 2011 and newer models will be a direct fit. Bolt patterns on all years are the same.

I wasn't until what year was involved until I did a Google search for 2007 Ford Edge coil problems. It was a problem on some of them that also called for replacement of the PCM. Your misfire/jerk could be related to a bad coil (s) and PCM problem. Never having owned an Edge with this problem, and just remembering a few posts on here about the problem since I joined a little over a year ago, I would do more searching and see if this is your problem. Here is an excerpt from one of the search results on Google. This article supersedes TSB 11-8-2 to update the Part List. ISSUE: Some 2006-2008 Fusion, Milan, 2006 Zephyr, 2007-2008 MKZ, Edge, MKX, and 2008 Taurus, Taurus X and Sable vehicles built on or before 3/1/2008 equipped with a 3.0L or 3.5L engine may exhibit a malfunction indicator lamp (MIL) on with diagnostic trouble codes (DTCs) P0351, P0352, P0353, P0354, P0355 and/or P0356 present in the powertrain control module (PCM) with one or more damaged coil-on-plug(s). Using IDS scan tool, retrieve continuous memory DTCs. Are DTCs P035X present in the PCM? No - This article does not apply. Refer to the Powertrain Control/Emissions Diagnosis (PC/ED) manual for normal diagnostics. Yes - Proceed to Step 2. Remove all ignition coil-on-plugs. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-07. Inspect ignition coil-on-plugs for cracks and/or signs of heat related damage. Refer to Figures 1-3 at the end of this procedure for examples of damage. Do any ignition coil-on-plugs show signs of damage? Yes - Proceed to Step 4. No - Do not continue with this article. Refer to the PC/ED manual for normal diagnostics. Replace PCM. Refer to Workshop Manual (WSM), Section 303-14A. Proceed to Step 5. Replace all six (6) spark plugs and ignition coil-on-plugs. Refer to WSM, Section 303-07.

I had the dealer include a set of the Ford all weather rubber mats when I purchased my 2013 a little over a year ago. I noticed a month or so ago that there is a hole from where my heel rests while driving. It is from my right heel pivoting back and forth from the brake pedal to the gas pedal. I was really surprised to see such wear within 12000 miles or so.

This pair of new lights is available, shipped anywhere in the lower 48 states for $46.00. PayPal accepted.

I change my oil and rotate my tires every 5000 miles, regardless of what the OLM says (unless it were to get below 10% before that). My records indicate I have never been below 60% for the last three oil changes, and the car now has 16000 miles. I do a majority of highway driving, but a DIY oil change, filter, and tire rotation is cheap insurance in my opinion. I use the Motorcraft 5W20 synthetic blend and the Motorcraft oil filter.

What if you tried a different drive with your music? Maybe copy some of the songs onto another USB and see what happens.

Glad to read that you got some replacement wheels (2010) which will fit with no modification. I was a little concerned when you originally said they were 2013 wheels.

Did you have the wheel hub opening machined out on the 2013 wheels? You do know that the opening is smaller on the 2013 than on your 2008, right? I hope things work out OK for your swap.