ben senise

i just took my car out and did an experiment to test my theory. i drove away with my seatbelt off. the warning "bings" sounded i put my seatbelt on and they stopped. then a block away from home, i undid my seatbelt again. the warning light did not come on which i find to be strange. i didn't want to drive longer without my seatbelt so see when it would start warning me again. so my guess, and it's a wild guess, is that your car thinks that your seatbelt is not attached. when you start your car, do you see the seatbelt icon lit up? does it go off when you buckle up? i'm wondering if when you start hearing those 5x5 chimes, if you quickly unbuckle and buckle your seatbelt, the warning will stop. that's what i would investigate and i'm assuming that you wear your seatbelt.

the original post never mentioned "huge power train failure." the OP mentioned that in a subsequent post. but how you treat the engine during break-in will affect how it performs in the long run. most likely it won't be a failure per se but it can lead to premature wear. pistons, rings, cylinders, cams, lifters, crank, and all those pieces that rub together need to "mate." if they don't, the engine won't blow up but you may end up with a very tired engine at low mileage. and just because you don't agree with what others say, it doesn't make them ridiculous.

i ordered my 2016 edge for exactly the reason you state. i wanted a black Titanium with no sunroof, nav, cooled seats, etc. if you can find a car that suits you, great. if not, order it. it'll take a couple of months but you get exactly what you want.

what does 5x5 chime mean? "when i put the key in the ignition" do you mean while you're driving? 30 minutes between chimes?? no lights on the instrument cluster?

i did these on my 2016 Ti 3.5 AWD: Turn Signal Flashes Change number of turn signal flashes on a quick tap of the stalk from the default of 3. (SCCM) 724-01-01 xxxx xXxx xx 0 = One Flash 4 = Two Flashes 6 = Three Flashes - (Default C02D 0600 xx ORIGINAL) 8 = Four Flashes A = Five Flashes C = Six Flashes E = Seven Flashes Door Close Double Horn Honk (Engine Running Without Keyfob Detected (PTS)): BdyCM 726-41-02 (2014+ MY) xxxX xxxx xxxx 1 (Enabled - Default) 0 (Disabled)

70 km is way high. i don't remember how many my car had but IIRC it was fewer than 20. to me, the break-in period is important if you intend to keep your car for a long time. i would guess that people who want to test drive the new ST want to see how fast it is and are going to be flooring it right out of the dealer lot on a cold engine. personally, i wouldn't take that car. i wouldn't trust a car salesman to give me the time of day either. don't let emotions get you. you can find another ST or even order the exact one you want.

i put my breaker bar and a socket in the back of my car specifically for that reason.

if i were to guess, i would say it's the transmission downshifting especially since you say it doesn't happen in Sport mode. put the tach up on the display and see if there's a jump in RPM when you hear the thud.

i've been by the dealer a couple of times and noticed that their 2019 Edges have pools of water on the front hood where the indentation is. Granted, the cars are on a slight incline but this seems to me to be a design oversight. the angle seems to be such that if the car is on even slightly inclined, then water will pool. have any of you with a 2019 found this to be an issue?

Update for this issue: took the edge for service last week and mentioned the problem to the adviser. they couldn't reproduce the problem but they cleared the memory for the shifting. the transmission works perfectly now. smooth as silk. no more slamming. so in case anyone finds this thread and has a similar problem, try clearing the memory first. i was told that disconnecting the battery wasn't enough. they have to do it with "the computer." i don't know if this is user doable with forscan though. would be nice if it were.

i really like the looks of that. i think it looks great!

if enough people walk then it will make a difference. if sales drop 30%, it will make a difference. i wonder what percentage of edges were sold with each engine. i wonder how many customers know what engine they have, LOL. it won't make a difference for you today but time will tell. my edge will be three years old in june. i'll probably keep it for a few more years but one never knows. in any case, unless i have enough cash to buy an ST, i won't be an Edge owner again. and fuel economy regulations are based on the test cycle, not real world driving. accelerating a specific mass at a specific rate requires a specific amount of energy that is contained in gasoline. the difference in engine types is their efficiency; i.e. how much of the energy in the gas can be transformed into moving that mass. basic immutable laws of physics. is the four-cylinder more efficient in the real world or just the test cycle. i've read about porsche's change to turbo fours for their boxster line. the real world fuel economy is same or worse than the old non-turbo six but the EPA ratings are better. the shift from V8 to V6 is not that bad in my opinion. i've had a few BMWs with their beautiful 2.5 and 3 liter engines. smooth as silk, good torque. the same cars with a 2 liter four are horrible. no torque, rough, and you have to get them way into the revs to get them to move. in any case, these are my opinions and in my opinion, no turbo 4 in a car as heavy as the edge. a fiesta or golf, sure.

i find it strange that a company can release a product with a "feature" that is so freaking annoying. i turned off the automatic update feature in sync and it stopped the device from asking to connect to wifi. next thing i would do is go to owner.ford.com and make sure i'm on the latest version of sync for my car. if you aren't, my guess is that an update via USB will fix things. if you are, then i have a couple other suggestions. let us know.

i think ford is making a mistake only offering the four-banger in the edge other than the ST. I have a 3.5 in my '16 Ti as well and if i needed a new car today, i would probably be forced to buy a different vehicle which is unfortunate because i really like the edge. i had an '09 3.5 before this one and liked it very much as well. i'd love the ST but not sure i'd want to spend the money. what i would probably do is tell your dealer that you're interested in a new one if they will get you a Ti with a six-cylinder. obviously they can't but if enough people walk away because of this, then maybe they will change their mind and either offer the 2.7 turbo in the Ti or bring back the 3.5.

good stuff nick. thanks for the info and pics.

you spray your car with beer (India Pale Ale?) ? what's IPA in detailing lingo, nick?

excellent article. it is very informative. thanks for posting that.

a random orbital is not at all threatening. it is extremely easy. i would be very reluctant myself to use a rotating buffer. you'll be satisfied that you did it yourself when you get it done.

those vents allow air in the car to flow to the outside. air comes in through the vents in the passenger compartment and goes out there providing proper ventilation for health and safety.

if you have access to a windows box, try using that to format. i've had various problems with usb drives and formatting using mac and windows and even a chrome book. it's a long shot but if i were in your shoes, i'd give it a shot.

check out this page at ford.co.uk under "bulb specification chart." here Exterior Lamps Lamp Specification Power (Watt) Brake and rear lamp. P21/5W 21/5 Central high mounted brake lamp. W16W 16 Cornering lamps. H11 55 Front direction indicator. PY21W 21 Front fog lamp. H11 55 Front fog lamp. LED LED Front side lamp. W5W 5 Headlamp high beam. H15 55 Daytime running lamps. LED LED License plate lamp. W5W 5 Headlamp low beam. H7 55 Rear direction indicator. PY21W 21 Rear fog lamp. P21W 21 Reversing lamps. P21W 21 Side direction indicator. WY5W 5

many lights are different from country to country. since you're quoting in sterling, is it safe to assume that you're in the UK? was your friend attempting to change the high beam? according to ford.co.uk, that's an H15. The low beam is an H7.

i think spending money on a cheap polisher would be throwing money away. do it right or don't do it at all. do you know anyone with a random orbital that they could lend you? regarding the polishing product, start with a mild one and see how it goes. then if you need to, go more aggressive. small steps starting with the least dangerous or damaging product. i use my porter cable to polish and wax the car in spring and just touch up late summer so i only once a year, maybe twice at the maximum. but if you don't think the investment is worth it and you won't use the machine on a regular basis, then get a pro to do the swirl marks. it's the least hassle and maybe the least expensive solution.

spinning buffers can wreck the paint in the wrong hands. however, an random orbital buffer is very safe. i bought the porter cable one and a few meguiar's pads with meguiar's polishing compound and wax and i'm very happy with the results. if you only do it once, then maybe you can do it by hand but it will be a long process. i highly recommend the orbital buffer.

ah, you have hit upon one of the things that drives me absolutely bonkers about my 2016 Ti; rattling. here's what i have found: - the rear seat itself makes noise at the places where it is held in place. the two latches towards the front plus the hooks towards the back. - some electrical connectors under the rear seat rattle. for the first, i have jammed material between the seat and car body and i wrapped the hooks in tape. the tape is not ideal as it wears and needs to be replaced which is happening now. for the connectors, i zip-tied them tighter. i really like this car but the squeaks and rattles are simply unacceptable to the point where i feel like getting rid of it.