DunePearlEdge Posted June 21, 2012 Report Share Posted June 21, 2012 I've attached a picture of my front brake rotors on my 2007 sel. I noticed that the front rotors seem to have concentric rings on them, almost scratches, while the rears do not. Is this bad or does this mean it's time for replacement? Is there an easy way to tell if the front rotors or pads need replacement? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted June 22, 2012 Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 I've attached a picture of my front brake rotors on my 2007 sel. I noticed that the front rotors seem to have concentric rings on them, almost scratches, while the rears do not. Is this bad or does this mean it's time for replacement? Is there an easy way to tell if the front rotors or pads need replacement? Run your fingernail across it - if it catches then it's a deep scratch that might need to be fixed. Otherwise it's normal cosmetic stuff. Pull the wheel and check the thickness of the pads inside the calipers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted June 22, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 Thanks Akirby. Is there a certain thickness of the pad that indicts there still is life? Can this be checked through the wheel openings? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
carbonedge+ Posted June 22, 2012 Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 My '07 looked similar and turns out the pads were almost gone. I got the occasional grinding (metal to metal) and after removing the wheel, determined that an edge of the pad was down to the metal. There's really no easy way to tell how much pad is left without removing the wheel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted June 22, 2012 Report Share Posted June 22, 2012 I think it starts out around 1/2" so if it's down to 1/16" or less I'd go ahead and replace them to be safe. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted July 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 These are photos of the front driver side. Should I worry? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
akirby Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 That does look pretty bad. Looks like more than just surface rust. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted July 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 Hmm, so I should replace the rotors in the next 5000 miles? How do the pads look? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
railroad Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 Your pads look good. The rotors look like they were not turned the last pad change, no biggy, if you are not getting any grinding or shake in the front end. Looks like the Chicago salt is doing its thing on the bare metal. Probably normal for the area. A lot of brake jobs require new rotors now, when the pads are gone. I guess it is the price we pay for good pad material and stopping 4000 lbs. Yours looks like normal wear. Keep driving. Brakes usually last something in the neighborhood of 50 to 70K miles. If you are on the upper end you are doing well, just keep an ear out for the grinding sound. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depiry Posted July 27, 2012 Report Share Posted July 27, 2012 (edited) Bendix CT-3 ceramic Pads are friction rated FF Akebono ceramicPads are friction rated FF Raybestos ceramic are friction FF at the low end of FF EBC ceramic red stuff is friction rated GG Marty What are the code letters on the OE Motorcraft?? Edited July 27, 2012 by Depiry Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted August 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 I notice a little front vibration when driving. I'll replace the front rotors but not the pads. Are there any rotors that are better than the stock rotors or is it best to stick with the OEs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fishx65 Posted August 7, 2012 Report Share Posted August 7, 2012 Not a good idea to use old pads with new rotors. It's best to replace both at the same time. I've always had great luck with cheap rotors and very good pads. Not to crazy about brake dust so I always use Raybestos Blues or Wagner Thermoquiets. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted September 27, 2012 Author Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 I've started to hear slight grinding in the front when braking from about 20 mph down to 0. I think it's time to replace both the front rotors and pads. Where is a good place to buy these online? Are these rotors and pads significantly better than the stock units? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted September 27, 2012 Report Share Posted September 27, 2012 AutoZone or Advance Auto are good starting points. Usually get lifetime warranty on pads, can get lifetime on rotors such as Wagner, tho generally 2 years on rotors. Search for and use coupons online to get parts even cheaper than listed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted October 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 Bendix CT-3 ceramic Pads are friction rated FF Akebono ceramicPads are friction rated FF Raybestos ceramic are friction FF at the low end of FF EBC ceramic red stuff is friction rated GG Marty What are the code letters on the OE Motorcraft?? What do these ratings mean? Also, will any pad and or rotors give me significantly shorter stopping distances? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 http://www.fordedgeforum.com/index.php?/topic/2030-any-aftermarket-brake-pads/ This thread has useful info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted October 2, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 Thank you, that thread is very informative. I plan to buy stock rotors and Porterfield R4S pads for the front. Where is the best place to buy the stock front rotors? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
WWWPerfA_ZN0W Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 AutoZone, Advance Auto, RockAuto, Amazon, pretty much anywhere for rotors. Best to go local store in case of returns. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankster Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 I've had real good luck with RockAuto. I live near Chicago also. Usually get them next day. I use the Raybestos with very good luck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Depiry Posted October 2, 2012 Report Share Posted October 2, 2012 The EBC will give shorter stopping distances,check their Website, I am waiting for their delivery later this week,Marty Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted October 7, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 Thanks for the help guys. While I'm in there changing my pads and rotors, is there anything else I should do which will increase the life of the system, such as greasing or lubricating anything? Maybe some anti-seeze on some of the bolts? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cdpratt69 Posted October 7, 2012 Report Share Posted October 7, 2012 I didn't realize the salt caused so much rusting and bad pitting. That's freaking crazy. I may bitch when it 95 degrees on most Summer days but at least I don't have to worry about road salt for more than one or two times a year and even then it's only on a few bridges! I feel bad for you snow belt folks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DunePearlEdge Posted October 9, 2012 Author Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 I didn't realize the salt caused so much rusting and bad pitting. That's freaking crazy. I may bitch when it 95 degrees on most Summer days but at least I don't have to worry about road salt for more than one or two times a year and even then it's only on a few bridges! I feel bad for you snow belt folks! Living in the north has it's pitfalls. Is there any difference in front rotors between the FWD and AWD 07-11 Edges? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankster Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Thanks for the help guys. While I'm in there changing my pads and rotors, is there anything else I should do which will increase the life of the system, such as greasing or lubricating anything? Maybe some anti-seeze on some of the bolts? Do not apply anything to the bolts. It will screw up the torque.. You can add some grease where the wheels meet the rotor hat to avoid any corosion. Sometimes the wheel will stick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blankster Posted October 9, 2012 Report Share Posted October 9, 2012 Living in the north has it's pitfalls. Is there any difference in front rotors between the FWD and AWD 07-11 Edges? 2011 and up have a different breaking system. Rear rotors are much larger and the booster and calipers are revised. Since the AWD spec has a larger swept area for the front i suspect the front pads are slightly larger (at least from Ford) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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