Bad Brake Booster???

[EDST777]

Thanks. Using this document I will compile information, I prepare for replacement of the booster, but I would like to make it as wrote in the next subject without separation of brake lines and the ABS lines but only having removed the front fairing (cowl). Thanks.

[Krcole]

For anyone with the sudden sinking pedal. 

 

I had the pedal go to the floor with my son on a learner's permit driving. Slipped into intersection and luckily nobody was coming from either way. 

 

Repaired under warranty with brake booster replaced.

 

Few months later went over rough railroad crossing and pedal again went to floor with no power brakes. Paid ford dealership another  $1200 to repair with new brake master cylinder installed. 

 

Three months later hit a patch of snow and antilock activated and same problem, no power brakes. Ford said good news, we've replaced everything so should be no charge this time. Days later call and say it's the abs control module stuck valve, $1200.  I called bs and said pull her out and give me the keys. I may have used less civilized words. 

 

Watched a lot of youtube stating I should jam on brakes to activate and "unblock" the abs manifold/block/module. Tried and no luck. Finally, read further and someone suggested not only jamming brakes on gravel road in forward to activate abs but also doing in reverse.  Tried in reverse and pedal IMEDIATLLY came back to normal. 1 1/2 years later 30k miles later and free youtube fix still going with no problems and $2400 stealership fixes were a waste and never did fix problem or protect my family. After you make ford replace the booster under the extended coverage customer satisfaction program, find a gravel road, drive her up to 25 mph a couple of times and jam the brakes, then do same in reverse (no need to be at 25 here) then send me the ,$2,400.  Only kidding.  Those sacks of xxx at stealership will try to charge you that much and dont really fix,  they just bleed and temporarily mask the problem. Just walk in and tell them Ken says they suck. 

Edited February 8, 2020 by Krcole

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Good to know

[2kool]

2013 edge, 111,000 miles, pedal slowly going to floor last week . dealer swapped booster today under customer satisfaction program, (free) and tested master cylinder. says problem still exist.  wants $1,400.00 to replace some module under the master cylinder/booster area. ?? no fuking way. going to pick it up shortly and will try the dirt road trick. thanks. I did not see this module available on rock auto? anyone know where I can find it and if I can swap if need be? thanks, TOM  okay,    UPDATE: back from dealer, new booster but charged me $150.00 for brake system diagnostic. and want to replace HCU ..........nope, drove home but took a dirt road and activated ABS @ about 30 mph.  pedal and brakes felt completely normal!!  did it in reverse also for good measure, but I am back in business, guessing stuck valve!! thank you!!!!

Edited September 1, 2020 by 2kool
add t ostory

[wjharriott]

 I just replaced the brake booster because all signs pointed to it being bad. very hard pedal and unable to stop almost at all. after replacement it was much better, but still same issues, hard pedal,but stopping much better. Can anyone  touch on this, do i need to replace the master cylinder as well ? Could it be a bad Master cylinder? HELP!!!

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

Did you see the comment above?

 

Alternatively, do an ABS Bleed service function with Forscan Lite.  May need to follow up with a main system bleed if still some issues remaining.

[2kool]

On 9/1/2020 at 4:19 PM, 2kool said:

2013 edge, 111,000 miles, pedal slowly going to floor last week . dealer swapped booster today under customer satisfaction program, (free) and tested master cylinder. says problem still exist.  wants $1,400.00 to replace some module under the master cylinder/booster area. ?? no fuking way. going to pick it up shortly and will try the dirt road trick. thanks. I did not see this module available on rock auto? anyone know where I can find it and if I can swap if need be? thanks, TOM  okay,    UPDATE: back from dealer, new booster but charged me $150.00 for brake system diagnostic. and want to replace HCU ..........nope, drove home but took a dirt road and activated ABS @ about 30 mph.  pedal and brakes felt completely normal!!  did it in reverse also for good measure, but I am back in business, guessing stuck valve!! thank you!!!!

update: got my $150.00 refunded as brake diag. was not authorized. 

 

[Ecoboosted]

I finally got around to replacing my booster regarding SSM 45857- touchy or over sensitive brakes. I was in a hurry so I didn't take any pictures, but I couldn't find anything on the internet to help so I figured I would document what I remember:

 

1. Disconnect battery (+) terminal, 10mm
2. Remove airbox cover and air filter, 7mm clamp on the intake hose, electrical connector at the front.
3. Remove air box, 7mm bolts at radiator support, the box is held in on the bottom by rubber grommets so it "pops" out
4. Loosen battery hold down (8mm) slide battery forward and disconnect (-) cable, 10mm
5. Remove battery
6. Remove battery tray, 8mm bolt towards the firewall in the center, and another towards the front on the driver's fender side of the box. The other 8mm bolts that look the same are there for the battery hold down and do not need to be removed. This is where a picture would really help, but if you leave the hold down bracket attached you can remove all of the bolts and not lose the bracket.
7. Remove the battery tray support, 13mm- one nut and one bolt
8. Pull out the vacuum line from the booster, remove all electrical connections (one at the master cylinder and one on the bottom of the booster.)
9. Inside at the brake pedal remove the pin that holds the booster arm to the brake arm, use needle nose pliers to pinch the plastic retainer and at the same time pry the pin out. I used a metal trim removal tool (forked end) to pry with.
10. The upper left nut holding the booster on is the most challenging to get to so I removed it first. I used 2 swivel joints and a deep 13mm with a 6" extension to turn it out. The other booster nuts are right in front of you. You can fully remove the nuts at this time
11. Back in the engine bay: break the 2 brake lines loose at the ABS block to the right of the master cylinder- these require a 15mm crows foot. 8 bucks for a whole set at Harbor Freight. Be ready to lose some fluid, I had rags all around it to keep it clean, then immediately put a ziplock bag over both lines and zipped it tight.
12. Remove the booster and master cylinder as 1 unit. Try to keep the open brake lines at the highest point to minimize fluid loss.
13. With the booster/ master cylinder out, remove the master cylinder (it still has the 2 lines attached to it that hooked up to the ABS block), 13mm
14. Remove the sensor at the bottom (it won't come out with the lines still there, so you have to remove and install it with the master cylinder removed from the booster.) It's tight, it just prys out.
15. Install the sensor onto the new booster.
16. Replace the o-ring on the master cylinder.
17. Attach the master cylinder to the new booster.
18. Replace the gasket for the firewall.
19. Slide the new unit into the engine bay, line up all the bolts and slide it into the firewall- don't push it all the way in yet. There might be enough range of motion in the pedal that you can line it up with the booster all the way in, I just did it this way to make sure I didn't have to pull it back out or misalign the booster arm.
20. At the brake pedal, make sure that the booster arm lines up with the brake arm. I rested a ratchet on the brake pedal to hold it down with the booster arm in the correct place, then slid the booster all the way into the firewall.
21. Insert the pin to the brake arm
22. I started the nuts inside, but did not tighten them at all so that the booster could still move around
23. In the engine bay, get both the brake lines started into the ABS block. Be careful not to cross thread them. There are flexible sections in the lines, but it was still good to be able to move the booster around to get the lines to start easily.
24. Tighten the brake lines
25. Tighten the booster bolts inside
26. Have someone pump the brakes and bleed the lines at the ABS block- only bleed the lines that were removed. 
27. Replace the vacuum line at the booster, it's tight.
28. Replace electrical connectors.
29. Replace battery tray support, battery tray, air box and hook up battery.
30. Run ABS brake bleed service routine
31. Bleed all lines. 
32. Enjoy!

 

The booster comes with the o-ring and new nuts for the master cylinder, and the firewall gasket.

 

I may have forgotten a small thing or two (like where some wiring is attached to the battery tray and air box that have to be pryed out) but I think this covers all the main stuff.

MC-10081005-7690.pdf

Edited November 2, 2020 by Ecoboosted
typos

[SpartanEdge22]

My brakes are soft and pedal goes to the floor after having to slam on my brakes with 2 tires off road so abs activated. Bled the brakes to see if it was air or whatever….no luck….test drove and got the mail on the way back with the recall for the break booster. Symptoms matched so I took it to the dealership. They say booster is fine and it’s my abs control module (DT4Z2C219B).  That part is on national back order with no date. Used parts are a gamble and expensive because they sell the combo but I have a useless car so I might have to take the risk. 
 

Any ideas? Did not try the reverse trick when I had it. It’s sitting at the dealership who could care less and would love to charge me all the money. 

[Gacampinghic]

Okay brought this car used 2012 Ford Edge soon as we got it we put a brake booster on it 6 months later I had to do the master cylinder and the brake booster because it was actually master cylinder was leaking into the booster now 5 and 1/2 months later I have a problem with my brakes again I'm not losing brake fluid like I was before the pedal is stiff checked for vacuum leaks just wanted to know if anybody's got any suggestions we did the ABS service bleed on the system using Forscan. Any ideas help anything would be greatly appreciated