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2020 PTU and Rear Diff Fluid?


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Generally the differential oils contain friction modifiers which cause issues with wet clutches. 

 

Similar reason why its not good to use car engine oil in a motorcycle due to the wet clutch - motorcycle engine oil does not contain friction modifiers.

 

Redline and Amsoil are top rated, so if they put it in writing that their oil is compatible I'd trust that.

The Redline website kind-of indicates that its compatible.

 

Interesting discussion here:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/rear-differential-rdu-fluid-amsoil-alternative.401168/

 

And here:

https://www.mavericktruckclub.com/forum/threads/rdu-rear-diff-non-oem-fluid-change-motocraft-xy-75w-qd-is-roughly-equivalent-to-a-synchromesh-gl-4-manual-transmission-fluid-not-a-gear-oil.75331/

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If it was me, and it told me it was up to date, but I was getting the sound from what I thought was the RDU, and my research shows TSBs for the issue, and the dealership refuses to perform the TSB updates, and actually doesn't care if I had needed TSBs updated or not, I would do what I did, which was perform a proper update.

 

But, that's me.  Knowing I have some type of issue, and knowing that to ensure I had all the proper software updates I should do an update, I would do the update.  I wouldn't care if the system told me the system was up to date.

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1 hour ago, Samurai Edge said:

When I called Redline's Tech Service line, they stated that their MT-LV 70W/75W  ( Full Synthetic ) meets that specification of the Motorcraft Disconnect Rear Drive Unit Fluid XY-75W-QL.

 

1 hour ago, 1004ron said:

The Redline website kind-of indicates that its compatible.

 

Sorry, but I couldn't find on the Redline website where it states their oil MT-LV 70W/75W is compatible with the Motorcraft XY-75W-QL. It states it is compatible with Ford's XT-11-QDC (WSS-M2C200-D2) which is Ford's dual clutch fluid (link)

 

Checking the recommended fluids based on car make/model does bring up the MT-LV 70W/75W as a recommendation for the rear differential, but if you enter a 2019 Edge it would bring up 75W90 GL-5 GEAR OIL, so their recommendation page is flawed. 

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20 hours ago, Samurai Edge said:

I believe I finally did an internet search to find the correct way to do the update install and that is how I got it to work.

 

It is literally this simple:    how to perform a software update on a 2020 Ford Edge

 

 

If it still says you are up-to-date after following the procedure as stated, then it is.  I just didn't trust what the system was telling me and I was right.  It may be different for you.

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22 hours ago, omar302 said:

 

The Motorcraft oil is specifically made(formulated) for the Ford "Disconnect Rear Drive Unit". Hence assume it is not a general gear oil like other makes. The Motorcraft specs (link) states:

 

  • Motorcraft® SAE 75W Disconnect Rear Drive Unit Fluid is specifically formulated for Ford disconnect rear drive units with a low offset hypoid gear
  • Developed with a lower viscosity to improve axle efficiency and fuel economy
  • Motorcraft® SAE 75W Disconnect Rear Drive Unit Fluid is formulated with synthetic base stocks, friction modifiers, antiwear and extreme pressure additives to provide gear protection and smooth clutch operation
  • Use only in Ford Disconnect Rear Drive Units
  • DO NOT use in conventional high-offset hypoid gear axles where SAE 75W-85, 75W-90, 80W-90 or 75W-140 is recommended

 

I think you are missing something here in this explanation.

 

You have to remember that we are talking about the RDU gear oil and NOT the Viscous Coupler oil.  These are two (2) different things, two (2) separate units that work independently of each other but, in unison, complete the transfer of power to the rear wheels.

 

Every manufacturer states only use their brand fluid ( you pick which type of fluid ) in their vehicles.  Ford is no different.  That does not mean you HAVE to and it does not mean that using an appropriate alternate fluid is bad for the vehicle nor will it void warranty.  You just have to meet the minimum spec of the original manufacturer specs but exceeding them is even better.  

 

Remember that the RDU itself is just gears and bearings.  There are no clutches involved.  The clutches are in the Viscous Coupler and you can not change that fluid as it is a sealed unit.

 

In my opinion, after doing my own searches for alternates, and speaking directly to a Redline Tech concerning the differences between what is stated by Ford Manufacturing and what Redline states on their website for the Redline MT-LV 70W/75W gear oil, I am convinced one is equally compatible with the other.

 

That's my opinion and Redline's opinion.  If in doubt about a product, I go directly to the source and don't rely simply what I read on a label or a website.

 

You don't have to take my advice.  You, and anyone else that does not agree, or has doubts, should just use whatever Ford recommends.

 

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3 hours ago, Samurai Edge said:

Every manufacturer states only use their brand fluid ( you pick which type of fluid ) in their vehicles.  Ford is no different.  That does not mean you HAVE to and it does not mean that using an appropriate alternate fluid is bad for the vehicle nor will it void warranty.  You just have to meet the minimum spec of the original manufacturer specs but exceeding them is even better.

 

The owners manual for the Ford Edge states to use oils that that meets the defined specification and viscosity grade.

They do "recommend" Motorcraft, but does not state to only use Motorcraft. 

Link to the 2024 Edge manual.

 

3 hours ago, Samurai Edge said:

Remember that the RDU itself is just gears and bearings.  There are no clutches involved.  The clutches are in the Viscous Coupler and you can not change that fluid as it is a sealed unit.

 

Not all gears are engineered or made the same, hence the different oil types and viscosities. 

 

3 hours ago, Samurai Edge said:

You don't have to take my advice.  You, and anyone else that does not agree, or has doubts, should just use whatever Ford recommends.

 

Well said. 

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I have heard nothing but good about Redline. Normally I stick with the manufacturer's product. I am going to do my PTU/RDU fluid changes at 15K on my 2024 ST.

PTU Redline full synthetic 75W85 GL-5 gear oil

RDU Redline full synthetic MT-LV 70W/75W GL-4 gear oil. 

 Fords PTU/RDU are ticking timebombs, unless you stay up the fluid changes. Seems like frequency is the key.

 

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11 hours ago, STBEAST said:

I have heard nothing but good about Redline. Normally I stick with the manufacturer's product. I am going to do my PTU/RDU fluid changes at 15K on my 2024 ST.

PTU Redline full synthetic 75W85 GL-5 gear oil

RDU Redline full synthetic MT-LV 70W/75W GL-4 gear oil. 

 Fords PTU/RDU are ticking timebombs, unless you stay up the fluid changes. Seems like frequency is the key.

 

 

Agreed.  Too many posts about the discovery of the PTU gone bad and needing replacement and a hefty price tag to go with it.

Ford states 30K miles between PTU gear oil changes.

Changed mine @ 20K miles and the fluid was already black & disgusting.

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PTU = Power Transfer Unit

 

It is a gear box connecting the engine to the transmission.  The engine sits sideways / horizontally in the engine bay, as opposed to longitudinally as standard in a lot of cars.  In order to get the power from the engine to the transmission, you essentially have to turn the gearing back to a longintudinal configuration, allowing the power from the engine to reach the transmission.

 

The PTU sits closely nestled between the engine, the transmission and the exhaust.  That is a very hot and hostile environment to live in.  The gear oil in the PTU bakes surrounded by so much heat.

 

As I mentioned, the manual states 30K miles between gear oil changes for the PTU.  Not a good idea if yo want to save your PTU from severe damage / replacement.

 

You could spend $2500 or more to have a dealer replace that PTU.

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Yes, 12.8 ounces.

 

No idea which video you watched.

I went ahead and purchased two (2) different vacuum pumps, one for sucking out dirty fluids and one for pumping in clean fluids.

 

Very easy and the process was fairly quick.  I moved around that hose a little into the corners, and I sucked out just about every ounce.  I say that because when I pumped the new fluid back in, it took 14 ounces and barely dripped out the fill hole.

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That's interesting but I don't think that is an OEM PTU.  I think that is a replacement PTU that has had the drain plug installed.  I have found them listed by doing a search.

 

Once you check your PTU, it will be interesting to see if you have a drain plug on yours.

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Some of the 19-24 PTUs have the drain plug and some do not.  This topic has been discussed previously and seems to generate a fair amount of interest every time it comes up.  I have already expressed my feelings toward ford on this topic (they were less than positive) so I will refrain from adding them again here.  

 

It is fair to say two things on this topic - 1.)  These transfer cases are poor engineering decisions on a couple of levels.  2.)  Specifically - not ONE of these products should have ever rolled off the assembly line without a drain and fill plug on a gear box.

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  • 1004ron changed the title to PTU and Rear Diff Fluid?

So, that's interesting.  Depending on the specific wording you use on your search, some results say The 2020 Ford Edge did not have a drain plug in the PTU, and other results say the PTU drain plugs were installed in so=me vehicles starting in 2015.

 

Either way, as you stated, " Specifically - not ONE of these products should have ever rolled off the assembly line without a drain and fill plug on a gear box. " I whole-heartedly agree with.

 

If anyone expects a manufacturer to listen to them about a product improvement, they will hit a brick wall.  No one can even suggest their designers screwed up.

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Just changed the rear diff fluid. It's a piece of cake. The fill plug's in a tight spot but a wobble socket extension made easy work of it.

 

Went up front and checked to see if there's drain plug on the PTU and there is, just as shown in the YT video. I bought the vehicle when it had 28K on it three years ago so I'm not sure if it's already been replaced.  

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Well, at least you have a drain plug so that helps.  It's the fill plug that will get you now.  It's a tight spot so you will need a vacuum pump to get the fluid in there.

 

Just a note:  If you do a good enough search, you will find a YT video where someone shows how they installed their own PTU drain plug.

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Ford sells NEW VEHICLES!!!! They only carry repair parts because of Federal Laws. (except for Corvette) 

 

About that differential, of all of the research and watching videos of failures, the front pinion bearing set sucks! Back in the past, who cared about a few

sorry tenths of a mile to the gallon to a $3000 repair bill. There are NO CLUTCHES in the rear differential. BTW there are 2, that's right,

TWO systems piggybacked together to make it work. The viscous clutch pack w/electro-magnet (prelubed ) bolted to a differential with a haploid gear set,

no clutches. Traction control is by brake application on the spinning wheel. (no limited slip)

 

Every time one saw heavy duty applications with premature failure usually a heavier oil did the trick like 75W-140. Towing back then 

was HD. I think the bearings are overheated and killing the oil. After looking looking at the bearing failure, some bastard engineer got

a holiday trip to (fill in the blank) for that bearing set-up. So the B.S. about the clutches requiring some Houdini Magic Snake Oil that comes

from a hidden valley with magical oiling powers sound like something a MFG would do.

 

Several of the mfg.s are eating it for their sorry products. Gm on 6.2s just use heavier oil because an engineer said we could skip a

final crankshaft polishing. "See how much money we saved and bonuses we earned" said those folks. 

 

 

 

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