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Hardwire radar detector - where to connect hot wire?


carfaninpa

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I want to hardwire my radar detector in my 2011 MKX because the 12-volt outlets remain on when the car is shut off. I tried to connect the hot wire to several fuses in the kick panel (all of which should go off with the car) but it seems they are always on. Has anyone done this? Can you tell me where you connected to a fuse or wire that goes off with the car? Thanks.

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I want to hardwire my radar detector in my 2011 MKX because the 12-volt outlets remain on when the car is shut off. I tried to connect the hot wire to several fuses in the kick panel (all of which should go off with the car) but it seems they are always on. Has anyone done this? Can you tell me where you connected to a fuse or wire that goes off with the car? Thanks.

 

Seems like it was fuse # 34 that is controlled by the ignition switch. Ford really made it tough to attach accessories on the Edge--- Anyway, check #34 If that doesn't work, do some research in the forum-- there was a thread about that over a year ago---

Edited by flyerjmr33
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  • 6 months later...

Fuse is #35 Switches on and off with the ignition

How would you wire into the fuse? What does that fuse control? I am looking to hard wire my RE-Q5 box as the speaker wire input (the unit detects voltage on the speaker wire) is annoying (unit, and thus amps attached to that unit, turn off if the volume is too low, or I am on a phone call and I am talking).

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  • 2 weeks later...

Here are some pictures that show how I hard wired our radar detector into the fuse (#35) panel.I used a mini fuse with a tap and then attached the ground to an existing bolt that already had other grounds connected to it. It works perfectly and turns on the car is running and off when it's not. Entire job took me less than an hour and I was in no rush at all.

 

Good Luck,

TR

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  • 1 month later...

I'm looking to do the same thing with a Garmin in our 2011 Edge. Thanks for the info about fuse #35, I was wondering which one I should use.

 

Next question...is there anything needed to "step down" the voltage for the GPS unit? I've read that cigarette outlets have a thing on them that reduces the 12V from the fuse panel to 5V, and that if you don't do this when you directly connect your device to the fuse box you'll damage your GPS or radar detector. Any advice on this?

 

EDIT: I should add that I'm interested in keeping the original charger intact, and just buying a female cigarette adapter to wire into the fuse box. If I then plug the OEM power adapter into THAT, do I have to bother with anything else?

Edited by rogersmj
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I'm looking to do the same thing with a Garmin in our 2011 Edge. Thanks for the info about fuse #35, I was wondering which one I should use.

 

Next question...is there anything needed to "step down" the voltage for the GPS unit? I've read that cigarette outlets have a thing on them that reduces the 12V from the fuse panel to 5V, and that if you don't do this when you directly connect your device to the fuse box you'll damage your GPS or radar detector. Any advice on this?

 

EDIT: I should add that I'm interested in keeping the original charger intact, and just buying a female cigarette adapter to wire into the fuse box. If I then plug the OEM power adapter into THAT, do I have to bother with anything else?

 

Never heard that before. All accessories that come with automotive power point plugs run off 12V. If the device needs less that will be handled by the device's charger cord, not the car. You should have no problem wiring in a new receptacle straight to the fuse box.

 

Check the specs on your Garmin and see how much amperage it draws at full power. It's probably way way less than any of the existing fuses (if it was an actual cigarette lighter that would be a different story). Get a fusetap and a cheap 12V voltage detector (or go ahead and spring for a voltmeter - it comes in really handy). Then just test the fuses to see which one behaves the way you want it to (off with ignition off, on with ignition on), apply the fusetap, route the wires and mount the receptacle and you're done. You can also hide the receptacle in the console if you can get the Garmin charger cord into it also.

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I'm looking to do the same thing with a Garmin in our 2011 Edge. Thanks for the info about fuse #35, I was wondering which one I should use.

 

Next question...is there anything needed to "step down" the voltage for the GPS unit? I've read that cigarette outlets have a thing on them that reduces the 12V from the fuse panel to 5V, and that if you don't do this when you directly connect your device to the fuse box you'll damage your GPS or radar detector. Any advice on this?

 

EDIT: I should add that I'm interested in keeping the original charger intact, and just buying a female cigarette adapter to wire into the fuse box. If I then plug the OEM power adapter into THAT, do I have to bother with anything else?

 

That OE power cord probably has an IC steps down the voltage because, as akirby pointed out, car cigarette lighter plugs need to accept 12V by standard.

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Thank you all very much for your help. I'm going to do this project tonight.

 

One last question...since the fuses in the Edge's fuse panel are likely all much higher than needed for the Garmin, should I put an inline fuse on the receptacle I'm installing for the Garmin? Or is that too unnecessary since I'm using the OEM power cord for it?

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Thank you all very much for your help. I'm going to do this project tonight.

 

One last question...since the fuses in the Edge's fuse panel are likely all much higher than needed for the Garmin, should I put an inline fuse on the receptacle I'm installing for the Garmin? Or is that too unnecessary since I'm using the OEM power cord for it?

 

Its not necessary, but it won't hurt.

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Thank you all very much for your help. I'm going to do this project tonight.

 

One last question...since the fuses in the Edge's fuse panel are likely all much higher than needed for the Garmin, should I put an inline fuse on the receptacle I'm installing for the Garmin? Or is that too unnecessary since I'm using the OEM power cord for it?

 

Like previously said, it won't hurt. Check to see if the OE 12V plug twists off or screws off; sometimes there's an inline fuse built right into the cigarette plug of the GPS.

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  • 5 months later...

 

I bought one, and found that the tap prong + fuse blade thickness damages the socket, because the thickness of both blades is too much. I finally found the double fuse holder which seems to be perfect.

 

There is a listing for this fuse on Amazon,

 

http://www.amazon.co...f=pd_sim_auto_1

Littelfuse FHA200B ATO Add-A-Circuit kit. I bought mine at a local parts store, at it came with 4 fuses of different amp ratings, but it seems to me that there is already a fuse in the "spare" connection in the under-the- dash fuse box.

 

Fuse 34 is for the reverse sensing system

 

The proper fuse to tap is # 33, a spare.

 

All from the Ford "Owner's Guide" for the 2011 Edge, that comes in the zip document holder. worship.gif

 

Tiger_Steve

Edited by Tiger_Steve
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Here are some pictures that show how I hard wired our radar detector into the fuse (#35) panel.I used a mini fuse with a tap and then attached the ground to an existing bolt that already had other grounds connected to it. It works perfectly and turns on the car is running and off when it's not. Entire job took me less than an hour and I was in no rush at all.

 

Good Luck,

TR

I have an a 2012 Edge Limited and the fuse panel looks identical, however, my fuses are low profile mini's not the regular mini's. Also, you indicated you used the #35 fuse, which, from you picture, would be my #33 fuse which is indicated as a spare. So, I'm wondering if there was a change to the low profile and to the numbering of the fuses. Anyway, was you #35 listed as a spare?

Thanks,

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  • 1 year later...

I have an a 2012 Edge Limited and the fuse panel looks identical, however, my fuses are low profile mini's not the regular mini's. Also, you indicated you used the #35 fuse, which, from you picture, would be my #33 fuse which is indicated as a spare. So, I'm wondering if there was a change to the low profile and to the numbering of the fuses. Anyway, was you #35 listed as a spare?

Thanks,

 

Using the 'Spare' fuse more than likely won't work, as it is just that, a spare. The socket that it is in will not be wired for anything. The fuse is only in the fuse box to be used later if a fuse blows.

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  • 1 year later...

Thanks for the info here on the power options. I was looking for how to wire my A118 dashcam that needs a power source that is only on with the accessories.

 

Is there a source of how to properly remove the trim on the left side of the windshield or open the overhead dome light console run wires? Do I need a service manual?

 

In my case I also have audio/video(!) and GPS wires to hide.

 

Yeah! I figured out to connect the camera to the Lincoln (Ford) My Touch display. Video to follow.

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  • 4 months later...

 

Using the 'Spare' fuse more than likely won't work, as it is just that, a spare. The socket that it is in will not be wired for anything. The fuse is only in the fuse box to be used later if a fuse blows.

 

This used to be true on many cars, but the "SPARES" on the 2011 Edge are live -- they just don't have a connection to the accessory that uses that location in another market (China). Both 33 and 36 are live and perfect for plugging an accessory into. I used #33 for my Garmin Nuvi 2798 with backup camera.

 

The hardest part was finding a way to route the wire into the dash. I ended up enlarging the hole for the "direct sunlight" sensor right between the defrost vents.

 

 

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