OEM HID part Information

[ovcrash]

Hi,

 

I bought a Ford Edge 2012. I didn't buy the HID, so i would like to know if the Headlights are the same for the NO-HID and the HID ones.

 

If i buy the OEM ballast, OEM wiring and bulbs from ebay, can it work ? Or the headlights are complete different?

 

Thanks

[wlepse]

You'd have to change the housings since the bulbs are different. I don't know if anyone has actually done a real swap since you also need to get the auto levelers working and you'd likely need to get things programmed. Most people pick up a set of aftermarket HIDs with a 9006 bulb.

[ovcrash]

You'd have to change the housings since the bulbs are different. I don't know if anyone has actually done a real swap since you also need to get the auto levelers working and you'd likely need to get things programmed. Most people pick up a set of aftermarket HIDs with a 9006 bulb.

 

I've look on fordparts.com and the headlights have the same part number for HID or Non-HID headlights, so i wonder here would be the auto-leveler.

 

Anyone with OEM HID on there Edge 2011 + that could take pictures and post them? I would like to see how it looks compared to my headlights (i'm talking about in the engine bay)

[Dingo]

I have noticed that my headlights have a space for the ballast...

[wlepse]

I've look on fordparts.com and the headlights have the same part number for HID or Non-HID headlights, so i wonder here would be the auto-leveler.

 

Anyone with OEM HID on there Edge 2011 + that could take pictures and post them? I would like to see how it looks compared to my headlights (i'm talking about in the engine bay)

HIDs on the Edge use D3S bulbs, halogens use 9012 bulbs...I don't think the mount for the bulbs is the same so I can't see how they are interchangable.

[Dingo]

I know the projector lens is different, and the mounting ring obviously is, but the housing might be the same...

[johnmarkp]

I actually did a lot of research on this. The headlight housing is the same. Ford removes the plastic under the ballast to run the wires through. There is a different wire set inside as well. The whole projector assembly is different. There is no way to remove it and replace it without cutting the headlight assembly. The assembly is poly propylene so it can not be glued. It must be welded using PP welding strips. One 20 amp circuit needs to be added to each assembly. If you can get this all done then you have to have a dealer reprogram the computer to accept the 35 watt bulb. I do not know if there is a 55 watt version of the bulb available. The HID projector assemblies and ballasts come up on epay once in a while. You can use these parts from the Lincoln as well. There is no auto leveler in the Ford version. The case looks to be designed to work with one. Right now the projector assembly is bolted to a plastic ring that can only be manually adjusted for height. I my opinion the OEM HID assemblies can be put into the none HID housing. I did not do the modification because my Edge is a company car and I could not see cutting up the headlight assembly as an acceptable thing. If I owned it I would have done the work.

[NWS Alpine]

Basically same conclusion that I came to. The OEM projectors are nothing great just basic hella E55 style. If one would go through the trouble it would be better to do a retrofit with some quality projectors. I'm putting a pair of RX350BX projectors with clear lenses and osram CBIs at 55w.

[ovcrash]

Thanks for all the information. I have another question about HID.

 

What is the difference between a D3S bulb and a aftermark HID conversion kit bulb ? Because on every site they that the aftermark bulb move to get the HI/LOW beam "effect".

Does the D3S bulb do the same? or they have another way of doing the HI/LOW beam?

 

I would like to buy HID. but i what the best bang for my buck and as close as possible to the OEM HID feeling (or better).

[wlepse]

On the 2011 and up the high low is controlled by a shutter inside the housing so the bulb doesn't move. Sometimes you can hear the flap move. As for the differences in bulbs the D3S has the ignitor as part of the bulb and the aftermarket kits either have it as part of the ballast or between the ballast and the bulb. The aftermarket bulbs are likely to have somewhat more variability as well in terms of color, brightness and focal point.

[NWS Alpine]

The metal part the flips down to allow light to pass is called the cutoff shield. That's how all OEM bi-xenon HID works. Those cheap hid kits with moving shields on the bulbs are crap and a waste of money. Projectors must be used in a HID setup unles your reflectors were specifically designed for OEM hid D2R D4R etc bulbs. Since the Edge has bi-halogen projectors already it's somewhat decent to add a plug and play kit without potentially blinding drivers (killing them or yourself when they hit you on a dark road). D1 bulbs have integrated ignighters on the bulb base. D2 bulbs have the ignighters sep and they are connected to the ballast via a special high voltage cable. The D3 and D4 versions are the same as D1 and D2 respectively but they are newer versions that have no mercury in the bulbs. Performance is the same just more eco friendly disposal or in the event of one breaking.

 

 

Here is a picture how the cutoff shield works. When highbeam is activated it flips down. When this happens the light from the lower portion of the bowl is allowed to pass through the lens. The lens then flips and projects the light upwards creating light above where the shield originally blocked.

Edited December 9, 2011 by NWS Alpine

[sadnes]

hai

i have ford edge 2012 with 9012 halgon headlight

but make with CANBUS HID Xenon Kit - 6000K 9005 and it fit ok without cutting any thing and all of them inside the plastic nothing outside

in my gallry there is tow pic with halgon and xenon light

[JOYRIDER]

The metal part the flips down to allow light to pass is called the cutoff shield. That's how all OEM bi-xenon HID works. Those cheap hid kits with moving shields on the bulbs are crap and a waste of money. Projectors must be used in a HID setup unles your reflectors were specifically designed for OEM hid D2R D4R etc bulbs. Since the Edge has bi-halogen projectors already it's somewhat decent to add a plug and play kit without potentially blinding drivers (killing them or yourself when they hit you on a dark road). D1 bulbs have integrated ignighters on the bulb base. D2 bulbs have the ignighters sep and they are connected to the ballast via a special high voltage cable. The D3 and D4 versions are the same as D1 and D2 respectively but they are newer versions that have no mercury in the bulbs. Performance is the same just more eco friendly disposal or in the event of one breaking.

 

 

Here is a picture how the cutoff shield works. When highbeam is activated it flips down. When this happens the light from the lower portion of the bowl is allowed to pass through the lens. The lens then flips and projects the light upwards creating light above where the shield originally blocked.

 

 

Sounds like you know your lighting. That said, can you recommend a plug and play HID kit for non HID equipped 2011 Edges please? I know there are hundreds out there but I'd like a quality kit with a quality result. (preferrably under $500)

Edited January 13, 2012 by JOYRIDER

[Avalonis]

Sounds like you know your lighting. That said, can you recommend a plug and play HID kit for non HID equipped 2011 Edges please? I know there are hundreds out there but I'd like a quality kit with a quality result. (preferrably under $500)

 

 

Bump. I am curious as well.

[Edge_Beast]

I'm currently run a 9006 bulb 5000K 55W from DDM tuning. Easy to install and works great. Price is very reasonable (~$50)

Edited January 24, 2012 by Edge_Beast

[NWS Alpine]

Bump. I am curious as well.

 

 

This is what I sent him in response to a PM:

 

If you want to get OEM like performance I would go 4300K bulbs as that is most OEM color temps. Some now are going 5000K with bulbs like Osram CBI bulbs. I had a pair in my 650i and they were $200 for the bulbs alone. I have the retrosolutions 55w 5000K kit and I am happy with it but I got it cheap and I do expect it to fail. I upgraded the harness with one I made to include 2 relays.

 

If I were you and you had no plans to do a full blown projector retrofit then I would get the Morimoto kit from the retrofit source. They are the store behind hidplanet.com and they are really reputable and stand behind their stuff. Their kits are some of the best for kits. There is no comparison from OEM to kits as far as reliability but the morimotos are the best for kits. Also prices reflect that as OEM ballasts can cost more than the entire kit. http://www.theretrof...roducts_id=3957 I would email them and ask what they suggest. I recommend going with their low beam 9006 elite kit. We don't need a bi-xenon harness because we have oem bi-xenon control from the factory wires. Also ask them if they have a 55w kit as I don't see the option. They are newer ballasts and weren't out when I bought mine hence why I bought the retrosolutions kit.

[dummptyhummpty]

I actually did a lot of research on this. The headlight housing is the same. Ford removes the plastic under the ballast to run the wires through. There is a different wire set inside as well. The whole projector assembly is different. There is no way to remove it and replace it without cutting the headlight assembly. The assembly is poly propylene so it can not be glued. It must be welded using PP welding strips. One 20 amp circuit needs to be added to each assembly. If you can get this all done then you have to have a dealer reprogram the computer to accept the 35 watt bulb. I do not know if there is a 55 watt version of the bulb available. The HID projector assemblies and ballasts come up on epay once in a while. You can use these parts from the Lincoln as well. There is no auto leveler in the Ford version. The case looks to be designed to work with one. Right now the projector assembly is bolted to a plastic ring that can only be manually adjusted for height. I my opinion the OEM HID assemblies can be put into the none HID housing. I did not do the modification because my Edge is a company car and I could not see cutting up the headlight assembly as an acceptable thing. If I owned it I would have done the work.

 

Can you clarify if the wiring from the vehicle to the housing is the same for HID and non HID vehicles? If not, what is different? It wasn't clear if the 20amp circuit was due to the different wiring harness inside of the housing.

[omar302]

I know its not for an Edge, but there was a person who installed OEM HIDs from a Taurus SHO to his non-HID Taurus Limited. The differences in the wiring harness might give you indiciation to what might also be different in the case of the Edge.

 

http://community.webshots.com/album/576444195utMbwN

[dummptyhummpty]

I know its not for an Edge, but there was a person who installed OEM HIDs from a Taurus SHO to his non-HID Taurus Limited. The differences in the wiring harness might give you indiciation to what might also be different in the case of the Edge.

 

http://community.webshots.com/album/576444195utMbwN

 

That link doesn't seem to work. Unless you need to register?

[omar302]

You can read about it in this thread. The link was posted there.

[WWWPerfA_ZN0W]

I signed up, but still no access to this album. Could have been moved, renamed, or erased. Too bad, sounded like good info on the thread.

[12Edge]

I bought the OPT7/ExtraHID (Same company) 9006 conversion kit at 5000K brightness 35 watt kit and its working great. I thought about the 55W kit but decided against it as it would probably get me flashed by oncoming traffic according to other posters on here. I plan to do a full write-up with photos as I installed the wiring in to the fuse box. as well as the kits wiring in the lamp housing. I'm just waiting or actual fuse terminals to come in the mail to get the final product pics.

 

To answer the question about the wiring, I have the wiring diagram from ford, there is an independent, one for each side that is, direct to battery connected (via the fuse box under the hood) 20 amp circuit that powers the factory ballast. The rest of the wiring is the same. The kit I bought has a relay and is wired in to the plug that goes to the halogen light. The purpose of this is to activate the relay switching power to the HID ballast. The factory ballast is wired similarly. Direct battery power and the same two wires that went to the halogen bulb +12v from the control switch and ground presumably to switch it on like the relay does.

Edited November 24, 2013 by 12Edge

[PrinzII]

I was entertaining this swap on my Edge but I think the easier (and less headache inducing) path would be to buy the capsules, replace the projectors, and use a TRS kit.

[lpgao]

I bought the OPT7/ExtraHID (Same company) 9006 conversion kit at 5000K brightness 35 watt kit and its working great. I thought about the 55W kit but decided against it as it would probably get me flashed by oncoming traffic according to other posters on here. I plan to do a full write-up with photos as I installed the wiring in to the fuse box. as well as the kits wiring in the lamp housing. I'm just waiting or actual fuse terminals to come in the mail to get the final product pics.

 

To answer the question about the wiring, I have the wiring diagram from ford, there is an independent, one for each side that is, direct to battery connected (via the fuse box under the hood) 20 amp circuit that powers the factory ballast. The rest of the wiring is the same. The kit I bought has a relay and is wired in to the plug that goes to the halogen light. The purpose of this is to activate the relay switching power to the HID ballast. The factory ballast is wired similarly. Direct battery power and the same two wires that went to the halogen bulb +12v from the control switch and ground presumably to switch it on like the relay does.

I am really interested in your wiring diagram from Ford. Can you say in deatails how do you wired to 20 amp circuit inside fuse box specific for HID lamps, not ones 10 amp for halogen bulbs?

[12Edge]

I am really interested in your wiring diagram from Ford. Can you say in deatails how do you wired to 20 amp circuit inside fuse box specific for HID lamps, not ones 10 amp for halogen bulbs?

 

I bought some open end crimp fittings from del city: http://www.delcity.net/store/search/p_11128.h_26861.t_1.n_y.jsp?search=7388520+++++&x=-628&y=-58

 

They required modification because the factory ones are different. I planned on putting in the details in my writeup for the HID install but simply put:

 

As you can see I had to cut out that square hole for the notch in the plastic body of the fuse box to hold it so it would not ever come out. Truth be told, I don't think they would ever come out if I left them alone they were so tightly squeezed in the hole but I wanted it to be locked in.

 

So to open the hood fuse box there are 4 tabs on the passenger facing side and 2 on the drive facing side. Start with a corner tab and with a flat head pry the tab away from the body of the box while gently lifting up on the top half of the fuse box. Keep upwards pressure and move down each side tab from the corner you started with to the other end of the same side. You should wind up with all the tabs unlatched on that side and you will more easily see the two halves of it. Move to the opposite side and unlatch the tabs the same way so you can lift up the entire top half of the fuse box. Everything is secure inside wiring wise so have no fear.

 

There should be enough slack where you can just about flip the thing over. The best way to do that is basically like you are rolling it towards the drivers side fender. Its going to be tight but it will almost flip 180 degrees.

 

Now you can see what I drew in the above image, the bottom half of the socket. Sockets 57 and 78 are for the left and right bulbs respectively. If you have made your socket correctly as I describe above and properly crimped it on to the wire you ran then just plug the left and right ones in to the correct hole and insert a fuse. The other side of the socket is already powered and you can't even get at it from the bottom.

 

Reverse the installation. You will notice the bottom half of the fuse box that I have dubbed the "Skirt" has two flaps that open up where the wire bundles can be passed through. Make sure everything is closed up properly there and you line up the fuse box when you install it or you will have a tough time getting it to go all the way back down to where the tabs will relock. Of course make sure you are lining up the tabs with the slots they go in as you are installing.

 

**Note: the terminal in the photo has the crimp end broken off. That is the only one I have pics of while I was trying to figure out the proper way to make one fit. Don't do that. Also, it will stick out a little higher than the bottom of the fuse socket so you might want to add some heat shrink tubing if you are worried about contact with it. I mention scoring the holder with a dremel cuttoff wheel in the photo to make the square hole. That is what I did to start them but I did not cut all the way through with it at all, simply marked them with it. Bottom line it just thinned the terminal enough to easily push through with a sharp blade.

 

Other than making the fuse holders fit properly it was one of the easiest parts of the install.

 

Adding a wiring diagram:

 

Adding a little more having re-read the question asked....

 

I ran two power lines from the fuse box so there was one each for the left and right bulbs. The OPT7 HID kit came with one relay and a 30 amp fuse to run both ballasts. I build a second relay harness (would have probably been cheaper to buy one from them) and wired up both circuits independently. If you use a single power wire and single relay any failure along that path leads to both lights going out. What I did was make two relay systems that are activated by the normal halogen circuit to switch the relay and direct the battery power to the HID ballast.

 

I plan on doing a better write-up soon with more pictures.

Edited November 26, 2013 by 12Edge