Story continues: analyzing wiring schematics from @Haz and comparing with Service Manual i have - built based on my Edge ST VIN.  Steps to be followed as per my understanding: 1. Install light switch module ( HEADLAMP SWITCH) with one that has rear fog switch button. Already done. 2. check if wire (CLF57) connecting HEADLAMP SWITCH module, pin 2 (REAR FOG) is in place and go to BCM pin 8 (REAR FOG).       What if there is no wire? To run a wire is not a problem from HEADLAMP SWITCH side. But how about BCM side? My VIN based Service Manual says BCM C2280G connector pin 8 is "not used". If there is no metal contact there then what? If it is only about putting metal pins in the connector (harness side) and crimp a wire then the question is - where to get suitable pin from? If BCM side pin is missing then... Don't tell me i have to take the whole BCM out of the car, open it and solder/whatever new connection inside:) Then another question to you guys - how the heck to take it out? Or even how to have some access to BCM? I saw BCM during installation of HEADLAMP SWITCH - it is so deep under the dash and there is zero room for hands not mentioning any manipulation around connectors!  3. Check if there is wire (SBB67) going from BATTERY JUNCTION BOX connector C1035A, pin 6, to BCM connector C2280B, pin 21:   By looking at the wiring schematic it looks like this wire (SBB67) is specific for REAR FOG lamps - is it truth? But then 50 Amps fuse?! Or maybe this schematic is simplified and inside BCM this wire powers more things? At least I'm bit positive here and my VIN based Service Manual shows C2280B bin is occupied:   4. Check is there is, if not, run new wire from BCM connector C2280F, pin 25, all the way to the back of the car to connector C438 (if exist...) and to DIY lamps - do it yourself as i haven't found OEM lamps that fit in place of original reflectors in my bumper (USA ST, 2022):( Then the other wire (negative) to some ground point in the back. And here again, my VIN based Service Manual shows BCM connector C2280F, pin 25 is not used:     ...so the same question on how to install it:/   5. Adapting the whole system to make it work - will it work straight away after the connections are made or some adaptation/programming is necessary? ForScan - how, what modules, etc - but for the moment i need to win points 1-4...   When i get back home i'll try to find some time and do detailed checks and make how-to story for anyone interested to follow the same path.   Please put some light on the topics highlighted above. Those missing wires and empty slots in BCM worries me the most. Thanks!    

bloody internet... Possible to put them here as a photos, not links to external websites?

I recently replaced the a/c compressor with a well known brand. I didn't disturb any wiring except to hook up the provided wiring adapter from the new compressor to my oem plug. I've gotten some freon in it but no matter what I can't get the ac clutch to engage. I've swapped relays with no luck, all fuses are good, checked wiring continuity from the relay panel to the compressor and for power TO the relay panel and all are ok. What am I missing??? The ac worked great until I swapped the compressor and only did so because the old compressor started leaking oil from the rear cover and yes the bolts were as tight as could be but the leak continued. Any thoughts/ideas anyone? TIA 

I had this happen to me. The first time it happened was immediately after an ABS event. The pedal would go almost fully to the floor, except it would build pressure and actually brake near the bottom of the travel. Felt almost like the master cylinder was bypassing until the very last minute. Took it to a local dealer, who first diagnosed it as a faulty brake booster. Which does not make sense at all. If the booster was failing, the brakes would be harder, and I would see the revs jump up from the vacuum leak, and I was getting none of that. I told them to test and check the HCU because a tech I was friends with said it sounded familiar. In the end, what was happening was that the ABS HCU bypass valve was stuck open, allowing pressure to flow into and fill the accumulator before the system gained any pressure. When they replaced mine, they didn't bleed it properly, so the system was still full of air, making it seem like the problem was still there. They forced me into giving them authorization to change out the booster, too, which would mean they'd have to bleed the system twice. Haven't had any issues since

Oh boy. That's from 6 years ago! As I remember, it is not about HID vs Halogen, this is to allow changing from stock DRL settings.  Check this, though it is for a Fusion, most ABD is similar to the 2015-2018 Edge.  https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1yax6zfhZYj2joBczEeruqKh9X5Qhee3C0ngilqwTA7E/pubhtml?gid=0&single=true  

Do you know where the 7F comes from? Ive pulled up a few different as built data sheets for 15-18 Edges w/ factory Hid's and the value where you say change to 7F is 11

@biscessar  hacked and banned.

So i had placed the post in the wrong category...   My 2013 rear wiper has stopped working.  I have replaced the wiper control arm on the steering column, I have replaced the wiper motor, i have tested the cable from the headliner to the wiper motor for continuity, I have checked all the fuses under the hood as well as the relays.  I still don't know why my rear wiper is not working.  When i had the rear wiper motor changed my mechanic said i don't have control voltage going to the motor.   Any suggestions?

I see that this post is from 7 years ago but I want to share my similar situation. I have a 2012 Ford edge limited 3.5 v6. I had a leak in the high pressure power steering line from Gear to pump. Very small just a couple drips a week. I bought a duralast line to replace it from auto zone. Ever since the line was replaced my pump has whined. 3 mechanics and a dealership later no one could figure out why. It was bled multiple times. No air bubbles, no foaming, power steering worked totally fine and no leaks but the whine wouldn't stop. I saw this post and took a chance. Bought a motorcraft line and replaced the line again. The whine totally went away. Something with the aftermarket line must be different (length, inner diameter, etc) to cause the pump to caviate. So if anyone ever has a similar issue, buy motorcraft parts and don't trust aftermarket 

How do you disable start/stop on a 2023 Edge?                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                                       Auto Start/Stop Disabled     PSCM    730-03-01    xxxx    xxxx    00--     HVAC    733-01-05    xxxx    x0xx    xx-- This does not bring results. That is, it works, but a message pops up