Mine calls for 75-85. Also I noticed the PTU on the ST is called a high torque PTUSpecifications - Power Transfer Unit - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2022-2024 Edge.pdfSpecifications - Power Transfer Unit - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2022-2024 Edge.pdfSpecifications - Power Transfer Unit - 2.7L EcoBoost - 2022-2024 Edge.pdf, although they look the same. 

Have a local mechanic (was a Ford technician, worked for couple of dealers before going out on his own.)   Had him rotate tires, change the engine oil, transmission fluid, PTU oil, and power  steering fluid. Will change brake fluid next year, and new water pump (etc.) around 175,000 miles. (He drops engine and changes everything while its out.)   Asked  for a good look over and told him to just go ahead and fix it, no need to call unless going over a grand. He said he checked everything and couldn't find anything to fix. Really appreciate an honest, qualified mechanic. 

I guess the 2020 units are more " sensitive ".  🙂

The 2010 just like my 2017 the PTU takes 75W-140    I use AMSOIL SEVERE GEAR® 75W-140 100% Synthetic Gear Lube    

Sorry to hear about your new hair gel, etc.  Been there, done that before.   It can be a real mess.   The Ford Dealer is full of it.  " Lifetime " is a relative term.  What does "Lifetime " actually mean to the Dealer? In many cases, " Lifetime " refers to how long a manufacturer estimates how long car will be on the road, or maybe just under warranty.  So, 5 years?   The better way to drain any fluid from the car is to start with the car level.  It does make a difference.  Not doing so can leave fluids back in corners, cavities, etc., where it will stay nd not come out, leaving old fluid in there, which you do not want.   The Ford Edge PTU calls for XY75W85QL, which is a 75W85 weight fluid.  Your 75W140 is way too thick.  This can cause damage to your PTU.   I suggest doing it all over again. Make sure the car is level when you suction out the 75W140 and pushing in the XY75W85QL.   Options for refill: Red Line 50104 75W85 GL-5 Hypoid Limited Slip ( Full Synthetic ) Motul Gear 300 75w90  105777 ( Full Synthetic )   When I did mine last year I pulled all the old fluid out 14 oz ( 414 ml ) and put in 16 oz ( 473 ml ) before I got a slight drip from the fill hole. I had virtually no mess.   You can do it.

How far worn are the tires? A lot of them will become more noisy as they wear.  I have chased wheel bearing and tire whine and I feel your pain.   As a side note, when they used to ship cars by train, they would cinch them tight with chains. All of the pressure was put on sometimes 1 roller of a bearing set. The race would sometimes pick-up a small dent and the roller a flat spot. Those were only found by replacement.  

I'm chasing a very intermittent electrical/CMP issue on my 2016 Ford Edge SEL AWD 2.0L EcoBoost.   Symptoms: - After driving normally for 10+ miles, the car runs perfectly. - If I park it hot with the hood closed for about 15–30 minutes, the problem appears shortly after restarting, usually within the first 0.5 mile. - When it happens, the wrench light comes on and the engine is severely power-limited, barely going above ~1500 RPM. - Codes have included P0340, P0344, P0365, P0369 and P06A7. I have also seen P025E/P1014 during some events. - The most recent event produced pending P06A7 and P0344, followed by a CEL.   I just replaced CMP A with a new Motorcraft DU-103. Interesting test: I drove about 10 miles to my mechanic with no problem. The engine was hot when I arrived. We replaced CMP A with the hood open, and I drove another 10 miles home with no problem. I then parked the car with the hood closed for about 30+ minutes. On the second traffic-light acceleration after restarting, the wrench light came on and the car went into severe limp mode again. This time the only pending codes were P06A7 and P0344. After getting home, I unplugged and reconnected the CMP A connector. The CEL remained on, but the car immediately drove normally again. This makes me suspicious of a heat-sensitive CMP connector/terminal/wiring or a VREF issue rather than the CMP sensor itself.   Has anyone seen P06A7 + P0344 on the 2.0L EcoBoost caused by a CMP connector, terminal, wiring, or shared 5V reference issue? Any known harness problem or specific connector/splice I should inspect? I’m also wondering whether an intermittent cooling-fan/relay issue could be contributing to excessive underhood heat soak, although I have not proven that yet.   Any diagnostic suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Our 2010 awd limited with 217000km has never had its ptu fluid changed.  Local ford says its for life dont worry.  Everyone else seems to disagree.  I put my big boy pants on and tackled it.  Initially drove the front on ramps.  Crawled under and opened the filler plug.  About 100ml or so fluid ran out.  Oddly it seemed decent,  brown not black but smelly.  Using a suction tool managed to get about 150ml or so out.  Rooted the hose around as best as possible but didnt get much more out.  Then jacked the rear up on stands to be level by the eyeball measurement technique. I pushed the fluid in slowly to let it run down internally.  Kept filling until it puked out on hose removal.  I let it drizzle until it just dripped and replaced the cap. Figure i got about 280 to 300ml back into the PTU. The other 300ml ended up on the floor, my hair and every other place I dont want it.  Used 75w140 Pennzoil synthetic.  Based on others experience did I meaningfully extend Edgeward’s life or tragically cut it short?

Thanks for the comments and suggestions.   The whine can be heard accelerating/decelerating with or without braking.    I might hold-off buying parts until after the next service at which time I'll inspect the driveshaft, change PTU and RDU oils and check the drained oil.   The tires have just under 10K miles on them - P Zeros bought and installed at Costco - I did inspect them and there's no sign of wear let alone cupping etc.

It's been sometime now and I don't remember if this was suggested before, but have you considered they might be coming from the tires? Maybe try rotating them to see if it changes the noise?   If recall correctly, with bad bearings the noises would change on turns when the loads on them shift.