akirby

Previously built-in nav systems cost $2K and DVD map updates were $200. The attraction is that it's integrated with a huge 8" screen and is accessible using voice commands from the vehicle. But with apple carplay you can get the same benefits at no additional cost although you'll lose some vehicle functionality while in carplay mode (or so it seems).

It's very timing sensitive. A WORD OF CAUTION Do not try to program a bi-directional remote start IA fob (Fusion/MKZ and Edge/MKX e.g.) to more than one vehicle. It won't work. It will program the key for the new vehicle but it will no longer work on the old vehicle. Luckily my local dealer gave me a brand new key at no extra charge even though I was beyond the 3 yr b2b warranty for my Fusion. I only asked them to reprogram them and I was willing to pay for it. They had just done the first free service on our MKX and were looking for an excellent rating. They got it. Also got a free loaner for my Fusion while they performed 3 recalls I'd been saving up. We'll see if I get the same service on future visits.

Instructions are in the OM. Basically you use the start button to put it into learn mode, then insert all 3 keys in the center console starting with the two good keys.

Yes, without the transmission engaged to turn the engine the engine would die in neutral without fuel.

Shifting into neutral defeats the fuel cutoff. Waldo explained it above.

You don't need a larger mirror - you just need to adjust yours better and you won't have any blind spots. You should also always glance over your shoulder no matter what as a safety precaution.

Unless it's an older card where the owner has already upgraded and doesn't need the old one. Otherwise, you're 100% right. That's the point I was trying to make - I can buy bootleg software for pennies on the dollar, but that doesn't mean it's legal.

They've had this problem before. I don't think it has anything to do with the vehicle itself - I think it's the ordering software.

I forgot about ADFSO.

Edge and Flex are completely different platforms so it's hard to say.

Could have been worse.

Clean it really well, use a wire brush to get most of it off and then hit it with some rust converter coating.

Note that the generic brands like Dorman have not worked for some people. I used a Dorman and it worked fine but we traded the vehicle soon after. Others have not gotten them to work at all and ended up buying the motorcraft version.

You have to replace the fans and controller module. Very common problem. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12731-radiator-fan-assembly-replacement-procedure/page-4?hl=%20cooling%20%20fan Post 62 has a video.

At one time it was only available to "select" Ford dealers, whatever that means. It was not limited to Lincoln dealers.

There is something called the incentive protection program that gives you the option of the incentives at order time or at delivery. It's always available in Canada but only seems to be available at some US dealers. But it is possible.

And you had it in D, not S?

So it never occurred to you to replace the battery?

It's normal. I think it only engages if you're using cruise control or you tap the brake.

Holdback is only 3% so $1200 on a $40k vehicle. They might get a bit more back in bonuses, etc. they also add the doc fee which is 100% profit and car run $700 or more.

I've read about at least a dozen bad fans - never a bad pcm signal.

Look for autom8r's topic on cooling fan replacement. The fan assembly includes the fans and controller. Beware aftermarket parts - sometimes they don't work.

It's called the placebo effect......

I don't think you can definitely say it's the right side, but hopefully it's the same part on both sides. Probably a wiring/connector issue. I would check both the front sensors for a loose connector or wiring damage.

It's no problem to get an Edge factory ordered for $0 - $500 over dealer invoice. Nobody is getting MSRP. And warranties can be purchased for $1200-$1500 not $2000.