akirby

This appears to be a bug in the latest 3.5.1 version.

Haven't opened it up yet but it rides and handles great. It has more torque than my 2000 Lincoln LS V8 so I expect it will scoot as well. I think my favorite feature is the auto-dimming headlamps. I didn't know it had them and was pleasantly surprised. They work perfectly, dimming even faster than I would have manually.

Ford doesn't advertise your expected fuel economy. They advertise the EPA test fuel economy as required by law. Unless you drive EXACTLY like the EPA test you can't be sure that you'll get that fuel economy. That said a lot of 1.6L and 2.0L ecoboost owners seem to be getting lower than expected fuel economy. The jury is still out on whether there is a problem with the engine or the software or if it's just a difference in driving style, winter blend/E-10 fuel, etc. My suggestion is to find a suitable test loop near the dealer then do a test drive and reset the avg fuel economy on the trip computer and see what you get. You will see a slight increase after break-in (5K miles or so) but that would give you an idea of what to expect. The MFT problems are largely gone with the current version except for some isolated hardware problems.

I don't recall seeing specifics. I assume it was just a change to the menu structure and/or order of inputs.

Noise has more to do with the tire compound and tread design.

Formatting means wiping the data clean and putting a new filesystem on the drive so it can be used.

I keep getting those confused. Yes, the original upgrade last spring switched from telenav to NavTeq. The new update must have changed the format of the data otherwise a new card would not have been required. I think NavTeq also supplied the older nav DVDs and they charged $200 as do most other OEM map suppliers. I don't expect this to be any different just because it's on a SD card.

The updates come from telenav and I'm sure they'll be the same price as before - about $200. No online discounts unless you find someone willing to sell an old card.

As discussed on the other thread, there have been many reports of problems after a successful update and a master reset will usually fix them.

Many people have done the update (themselves or at the dealer) and had random problems the next few days. A master reset fixes it. I agree it shouldn't be necessary but it works. Perhaps a simple reboot would also work.

I was assuming the dealer would do one before the update since this was not a self-install.

All the reports I've seen are positive. Just remove any usb drives or connected devices. When you get it back you might want to do a master reset.

It's a good idea to keep receipts but if you have an engine failure that shows a lubrication problem the receipts won't help. The good news is as long as you do change the oil on time with the proper oil and filter you won't have such a problem to worry about.

This was common early on but haven't heard about those problems recently. But this is easy - you're still under the factory warranty and that should be covered unless there is evidence of physical damage. You should not have to pay for it.

Master reset is one of the menu options. It does more than just a reboot. but pulling the fuse would probably also work.

Try a master reset.

It does not work. You can add the card and the software (if you know a dealer tech) and it will still not work. The only way to add nav to a car that wasn't built with it is by using a special tool that only Ford has (not the dealers). Can't be done unless Ford wants it to be done.

I don't think the problem is due to mileage so it's probably just as likely that if you replaced the PCM and coils now they go bad and you have to replace them again. You wouldn't replace the coils anyway - it's the PCM that causes the damage. If it ain't broke don't fix it. Chances are it won't happen.

There is a procedure to follow after losing power before the system will report that it's ready for emissions reporting but that usually only happens after a dead battery or battery replacement. If it still doesn't work take it back to the dealer.

If you don't already have a coil issue then don't worry about it. You should change the plugs no matter what but unless you're getting misfires don't worry about changing anything.

I don't think you can use nav and the radio at the same time either.

I thought you were just complaining because there wasn't one and I was giving you another option that works just as well except it doesn't automatically go back to the previous volume. In your case I think turning it off works better.

Everything except maybe the glass roof (replaced by a BAMR) and the seats. The rest is production. Count on it.

Would you just try it before you get all snarky? I thought the same thing on my Fusion until I realized that unlike previous vehicles when you hold the volume down button it doesn't go down slowly it goes down to 0 (muted) almost immediately. In other words they made the volume down button respond much faster so it works as a mute button just by holding it for a split second. I understand it doesn't go back to the previous volume but it works just fine otherwise.