akirby

It won't hurt. But I think the safest thing may be a clay bar. Polishes and compounds can do damage if overused or used too aggressively.

Hard to tell. Try bug and tar remover or cleaner wax or mild polishing compound or clay.

Then it isn't like the Focus and Sport mode does simply put it into manual mode.

Try putting it into Sport mode but don't touch the shift buttons. Does it still shift automatically or does it go into manual mode?

Sounds like the both dealers F'ed up both repairs.

MKX or MKZ?

Wow - the manual really doesn't explain this but I think it works the same as the Focus. If you put it in S without touching the upshift/downshift paddles/buttons it will shift automatically but maintain higher RPM and more aggressive operation. Once you manually select a gear it will stay in manual mode until you return it to Drive.

Most cars don't get reflashed every time they go in for an oil change. They don't change the PCM code that often.

Either you have the wrong harness or it's wired incorrectly. No possible way to diagnose that over the internet with limited information.

Make sure it's formatted as FAT32 and that the MP3 files aren't DRM protected.

The owner's manual is your friend..... http://motorcraftservice.com -> owner guides.

I think the dealer is just assuming it's the software.

Auto-unlock unlocks the doors after you stop the vehicle and open the door. It has nothing to do with what you're describing. You're supposed to be able to leave the IA key in the car and lock the doors using the door keypad which deactivates the IA fob until you open it again using the door keypad.

Sounds like you had a bad APIM. Did you ask the dealer to fix it after the last software upgrade? I don't understand why dealers are so hesitant to replace the APIM for customers who have problems after the upgrade.

It should be part of the latch mechanism inside the door. Try spraying it heavily with WD-40.

Ok, let's try this again. You're confusing different things. The speedometer is based on the circumference of the TIRE, not the wheel. 18s and 20s have the same size TIRE therefore the speedo is the same. It has nothing to do with the gear ratios since it's driven off the ABS wheel speed sensors and not off the transmission like older cars. Bigger wheels are heavier and are therefore slower from a stop to get going. They compensate for that with a numerically higher gear ratio. So the end result from the factory is that the 18s and 20s feel the same because of the change in ratios. Since you have the 20s with the gear ratio of the 18s it feels slower. If you had gotten the 20s from the factory with the higher ratio it would feel quicker. Capiche?

It's not the overall weight. It's the weight of the wheels and getting the wheels turning from a dead stop. Heavier wheels require more hp. So yes, that is it.

So the fuel gauge registers empty or close to empty and you still have 5-6 gallons left? That is absolutely a warrantable item - you need to find a new dealer.

The difference is not the size - as you found out the tire circumference is virtually the same. The difference is in the weight. Your wheels are heavier and it takes more oomph to get them turning. I don't think the difference would be worth the effort to swap it out.

They're the same as the 2012s. 5x7/6x8 same as all Fords. Crutchfield also has the adapters/connectors and installation guides.

How many miles to empty when you get the warning? It should be about 50 miles to empty. If your avg fuel economy is really low and accounting for a 2 gallon reserve you might have 6 gallons left.

Vehicle glass fails all the time, usually due to an impact of some kind even if it occurred minutes, hours or days before. If the glass itself was defective it would have failed a lot earlier than a year and a half. That's why you have insurance. You'd get the same answer from Dodge, Chevy, Toyota or any other mfr.

Corre Correct!

Use the recirculate button on the HVAC control.

I have a longtime online friend who was a transmission engineer for Ford. He changes his every 30K miles. Other engineers say to change it at 150K. Personally I'm doing mine between 60K and 90K.