akirby

I've heard of several batteries passing the load test at the auto parts store but still being bad and needing replacement. Not sure why - maybe they're just not using the tester correctly.

This is a known problem and I think a TSB was issued. Do a search - there were several threads on this a couple of years ago.

Guess what ATF stands for? Automatic Transmission Fluid. ATF and power steering fluid are just thin oils. Lots of manual transmissions also use ATF rather than gear oil because it yields better fuel economy.

That sounds like a bad battery. I'd change that, clear the codes and see what happens.

The slow acceleration - absolutely. May not explain everything but it's cheap and easy to fix and you can at least rule it out.

air filter?

I've owned 2 Rangers, 2 Explorers, An Aviator and an Expedition. Never had a problem due to lack of lubrication.

I can't remember the last time I heard of a ball joint or tie rod end failing on a modern vehicle due to lack of lubrication. Totally not necessary..

What Dingo said. If you want it find one that already has it. And if you want navigation you have to get that from the factory - it can't be added later (yet).

They think MyFordTouch is dangerous. They totally ignored voice commands and steering wheel controls that allow you to do everything you need to do while driving without taking your eyes off the road or your hands off the wheel.

If the cruise is set it will downshift to keep the speed at the set point. Without cruise on i don't think it will downshift when going downhill unless you touch the brakes.

Using a lower gear when going downhill will not hurt the transmission at all. And riding the brakes down a long hill generates a lot of heat which is not good and if used long enough can actually cause loss of braking which is why they advise you to downshift in the mountains when going downhill.

Very good assumption that is also documented in the owner's manual.

One person had serious problems and got the APIM replaced and continued to have problems. After replacing the APIM again all was fine. Most people are reporting no serious problems with the new software. I'm convinced that there are bad APIMs still out there including some stock replacements. A new APIM should fix the problems - if not demand that they replace it again.

My father-in-law was a cop for over 30 years. He hated having to write speeding tickets. He got roped into a ticket detail writing tickets in a 35 mph zone at lunchtime. He stopped 23 cars and gave every one a warning rather than a ticket. When he got back to the station the commander was livid. Jim said last time he checked the rules it was up to the discretion of the officer whether to give a ticket or a warning. He also used to take radar guns and clock F15s from the local AFB. It would fry the guns because the speed was so high. They finally stopped giving them to him. There is a big difference between exceeding the speed limit by 10-15 mph and driving dangerously.

The only advice I can give you is to throw away that worthless G-force chip. IAT resistors don't work.

Four words to remember. Your Mileage May Vary. Most people drive way faster than 60 mph on the highway and you won't see 27 mpg at 70-80 mph.

27 is only for the FWD 3.5L. AWD and 3.7L versions are lower. To get the EPA highway mileage you typically have to drive no faster than 60 mph. Driving 70-80 will kill your fuel mileage.

That does look pretty bad. Looks like more than just surface rust.

I doubt it - those are only on the European based models like the new Escape.

You can get a locksmith to open the door and you should be able to get it into neutral without the key (procedure is in the OM). Worst case they'd have to drag it rear first onto a flatbed. You should check with the dealer - they may be able to cut and/or program a new key from the VIN (with proper safety precautions).

Check the window sticker using the VIN and the link below. http://www.inventory...TEX1CM0CKE14667 Click on the link, then go to the URL and change the VIN to yours.

It's done for drivability, not to preserve the engine. You can bounce the engine off the rev limiter without any damage. My 2000 LS worked that way - it NEVER upshifted automatically under any circumstance. It would only downshift if you came to a complete stop in 3rd or higher gear. Other mfrs do the same upshift strategy so Ford decided to change it at some point. On the one hand I don't like it shifting automatically if it's in manual mode - that should be my decision unless it's to downshift to 1st when stopping. OTOH I can't see much use for letting it bounce off the rev limiter repeatedly either.

Nope.

Not if it's used correctly with lots of lubricant.