macbwt

Just inspected my fuel tank again. No leaks. Carry on smartly.

In the customer service perspective I feel that if Ford would at least provide and occasional update as to status on this fuel tank issue people would tend to feel a sense of progress towards the ultimate repair and correction of the problem with the leaking fuel tank. I deal with customers/clients and the worse thing you can do is do absolutely nothing and provide no type of communication or feed back on an issue. Ford Service does a great job in follow-up in contacting you and listening with some action to back it up. Ford Service please pass this on to the upper folks as for most of us this is a simple question that unanswered causes most of us to feel nothing is being done by ford to correct the fuel tank leak problem.

I find it strange that the the fuel cap light went off when it became cold last fall. Stayed off all winter. Then came back on once the temp rose up again. I feel that the issue is not the fuel cap as it can not possibly be cleaned any more. I cleaned it better than my wife keeps the kitchen. Once i get the Edge road worthy I will address it and see what the true problem is. Right now it runs without and issue so whatever the problem is it is not currently affecting the engine operation or fuel mileage. So to that end it tells me it is and EPA issue and not really a problem.

OK I admit it the fuel cap warning light is driving me nuts. It just turns on and glows at me all the time. It is almost like it is taunting me to tear apart the entire system to find out why the light is on. Might have to go buy a cigar and blow smoke through the line to find a leak then again a lit cigar and fuel most likely do not mix. Any ideas or anyone experienced this as this gas cap was newly installed in October.

Not sure what was all done to the APIM, but it is reacting faster than the old system was. The menu is the same, but slightly different. Just a few things were not quite setup the way I remembered. I did not use it that much so not sure enough to say anything was changed. The speed of reaction to touching the screen is faster though. Overall it is working great. Thank you Frank from Ford Service for the followup. Everything is good.

Lower control arm arrived today and I picked up the sway bar link. I think I will try to remove the sway bar link and reuse it but if it gets difficult I will cut it off. Just as I arrived home my right rear blinker bulb stopped working so now I will be changing that out along with the left rear. If one goes the other is sure to be close behind. Stand by for the video I have asked the Rear lift Support video girls if she is willing to help and this time she is excited about being the camera girl. So I get to use both hands and we can get some close ups of what I am doing.

Think I could get a Ford ESP for my Edge? As far as the hose, you might want to invest in another two or three of them. My wife uses them (yes multiples) and really likes them. Says the other types are to bulky and heavy.

I guess we can compare as time goes as to the durability of these monroe lift struts.

Agree, but my head does not hurt any more. Full up position and pretty quickly.

I would love to find out more on the program to use a Ford Edge as a driver. I think I could put some mile on it pretty quickly.

Hummm. I would run with it and check it for a few days and if the level stays the same and no sounds or whinning noises not worry about it any further. If it were me doing it I would just mark it up to me forgetting how much I took out.

The reason I only buy FWD. Less maintenace and cost.

You may want to let that wash around a few miles then do it all over again. Amazing that ford engineers can not figure out how to include drain and fill openings using their CAD programs. Most other engineers can do it. It almost seems like Ford wants to sell more PTU's and encourage vehicle failures and reduced sales. Really Really strange.

Just a note. The DIY video has been viewed in 25 countries and every state but Hawaii, vermont and Maine. Apparently they do not have internet or no one owns a ford Edge in these states. LOL

The 2011 was dropped off at 9am and returned to my wife with a new APIM and updated software at about 11:45 today. She has not called me so in my mind this a good thing. Now to see how it stands up. I want it to work, but I have a little bit of a pesimistic side. Happy wife and all that. Thank you Ford Service and to the dealer for getting the APIM replaced and updated in a short period of time.

Cost estimate for the right side control arm and sway bar link. Lower control arm $75.00 Moog Sway bar link $24.00 Master pro I think I will verify when I pick it up tomorrow. Shop fees estimate $20.00 Estimated total $119.00 Note: shop fee may be higher for more time depending on the amount of time I spend for camera set up and recording. Usually adds about an hour to the real time that it takes. I may get lucky and have someone to help record. Not sure what the garages charge for laber/etc. but I am willing to bet at least around 350-400 for this job. Might be less, but the last one I had done included a strut and was 450 for just labor plus tax.

Leave the drag racing to the younger folks then you won't break the sway bar links. Mine are masterpro sway bar links. I liked how they looked compared to the moog's The masterpro's just looked stronger. These days I do not believe there is quality only quantity. Sellers warranty the parts but play the odds that most folks will not call on the warranty for replacements even after failure. everything is stamped china and the quality from china is some of the lowest quality you can get IMO. To me it just seems like I am replacing parts after only 6 to 18 months after installation. Anywhere from 30k to 100K miles something is needing replaced. everything original on the car started to show wear at about 145K I guess I am being too critical sometimes as for most people these parts would last years (5-6) I always have to remember my miles are not the normal persons miles.

The original moog control arm was greaseless. The press in part has a grease insert. I am finding out quality on most replacement parts is for a better word "crap" I guess they would work for a normal driver, but they just do not last for my driving requirements. I always thought Moog was good also. I have cancelled my work today just to reduce the chance of the part failing and seperating. Live to fight another day as they say. My wife says God will help me and keep me safe. I say God gave me the common sense to know when to stop and take care of things. So I am easing back and today got good news. The part will arrive tomorrow so Saturday I can install the new control arm and will order the press in ball joint for the left side.

This also provides me with two different repair videos for the lower control arms. Full replacement and ball joint only replacement.

yep.

The great thing about the auto skills center is they have mechanics working on cars there and if you get in over your head you can call in the calvary to rescue you. Lifts, tools, special tools, etc. all available. This job is nothing more than having one of those presses that are a kit with different adapters. Plus the shop has the hydraulic press for the wheel bearings. I originally thought you could not remove the ball joints (ford you can not) Moog provides the ball joints as a press in so this is actually a better system then the Ford part. 50 bucks for both sides vice the 500 dollars for the ford option. The control arm bushings are not worn. So the control arm is in great shape just the ball joint is worn out.

Where was the leak coming from?

Oh I see a pointy hat and someone sitting in the corner soon.

Hey look what I found on Rockauto.com I can just buy the ball joint for my Moog control arm and do not have to buy the whole control arm. The autoskills center has the pressing tools so this may have just become easier. I will check it out further later next week.