macbwt

Had a rattle one time and it turned out to be a loose mud flap. Also since you are down under the car check the sway bar links and give them a good tug to make sure they are not broken. They tend to make noise when broken also. The only other thing might be the Wheel Induction Heat Sink Flux Modulator but I am betting that is not the problem.

Base just on my experiences and changing transmission fluids at intervals of 90K+ miles, 60k+ miles and at 30K+ miles I have determined for me the best mileage is to change the transmission fluid by about 40-50K miles for my driving habits. My wife's edge all city will get a fluid change about every 18 months since she drives only city and I would die before she was able to even put 30K miles on it. Oil - Changing it with at least a synblend oil of approved specs is the true way to keep the engine running. I have determined that changing the oil no matter the type or brand does the engine good and can not say any one type or brand of oil does better than the other. My orange crush ran on whatever was around and it was in excellent shape at 285,000 miles. Fuel and trans filters are essentially not a maintenance item. If either is needed to be changed then you have either a fuel pump failure or a transmission failure and at that point it will be replaced when the new trans or fuel pump are installed.

Please describe "Feedback"?

You asked and this is the answer. This video shows how my edge handled with just new rear shocks at 70mph to avoid t boning a meat head driver.

Everything in my Edge rattles. I just turn up the radio.

Coat the hub with never seize. The hole would be for access for emergency brake adjustments since the adjustment has to occur with the rotor on the hub. The rubber plug is to keep road trash from entering the emergency brake area. Next time get a bigger hammer.

I usually end up changing all four, maybe not at the same time. Usually within a few thousand miles of each change I get all four replaced. Cost and time always play a factor into the job. I use KYB as they seem a bit firmer and I like the firmer ride. Nothing wrong with staying with OEM if you can get a good price on them. Rockauto usually has the motorcraft suspension parts. Not uncommon to find a blown rear shock. I have had at least one or more on the Edge. I had a one rear shock start leaking at 60K so you never know, that is why inspections of the Edge are important. Note on the strut bearing mounts. I stuck with motorcraft bearing mounts but went with KYB struts.

Friend of mine at work has a 2011 with very intermittent Service AWD lights. After many trips to the dealer they finally ran it down to a connector and she has not had a problem since. Of course her battery saver is still a problem and I have not had time to check the system, but the dealer says the alternator is good. Yeah well I am not so sure.

2007 key fob. If the battery has never been changed then the battery is dead. Door lock most likely did not work because it has grime or garbage in it because it is never used. Try changing the battery in both and getting a lock cleaner or lubricant to spray it and clean it out then work the key in and out.

Might be a bad connector for the wiring. Only a diagnosis will find it along with a wiring test to isolate the bad connector. Could be other things also, but diagnosis is about the only way to identify the problem

This might help 2008 FWD Front and Rear; w/ 296 mm Front Rotors 2008 AWD Front and Rear; w/ 320 mm Front Rotors

Everything I looked up said power steering hose but I could not find that filter in the diagrams. Guess it is part of the hose. Also since it was so close to the sway bar it had to be power steering related.

Pilot Just join MACTFORDEDGE on facebook and get some pretty quick responses. As to the power steering use the Mercon V, which is the same for the transmission. Drain and fill is OK I choose to go have it done with the machine (far quicker and less mess) I paid 140-150 dollars for the transmission fluid change. Brake fluid just watch what I did on the video with the 2011 and my then 12 year old daughter. If she can do it so can you. Just make sure you the one helping communicate and coordinate. MercyGirl never did this before and she figured out how to hold the brake pedal down. Just go with the valvoline you will be fine. Note on transmission fluid. If you change the fluid and it starts to slip then remember this the transmission was already dead you were just borrowing time. A good well maintained transmission will suffer on effects from a fluid change. Yours only has 110K mile or so and should be in relatively good shape even if it was not changed. The 6F50 transmission is one of the better transmission I have ever had to deal with and hold up pretty good even through some abuse. Again, Join the facebook group but keep on returning here as this forum has some great information and allows you to have even more options to gain information. By the way I was just East of Des Moines Friday.

Welcome, First thing is: 1. replace ALL transmission fluid by exchanging at 100 percent of the fluid not just a drain and fill. 2. use Mercon V fluid only as it was designed to operate on this type fluid (don't get inventive) 3. Only use the oil recommended!! the VVT requires the viscosity to operate the timing of your engine. Thickening it up will lead to other issues, plus lower fuel efficiency. 4. Flush or exchange the power steering fluid with MERCON V 5. Bleed and replace the entire fluid from the brakes since it should go no further than 5 years you will need to bleed and replace the brake fluid with DOT 3 or better brake fluid. 6. Flush out and replace the coolant remember that you need to pay attention to the color and type. The edge's have went through three coolant upgrades since your model year. Use the coolant for your model year. What part of Iowa? I am in Davenport.

Not engine oil related, most likely for the power steering or transmission. Red tint says it is one of those systems. Close up photos are good but need orientation photos to tell more.

18 inch won't crack and are cheaper.

LOL, just checking to if everyone is awake.

Moral to the story. Do not go to walmart and buy the cheap Goodyear viva 3 tires then marry them up to the chrome clad wheels. You will never get them to balance even on a Road Force balancing machine. Impossible!!!

Always thinking of things to do so I did this:

The noise is most likely related to how they turned the rotors.

I only hear the noise from the rear brake for a short time because I repaired it right away. The dampeners do work. The noise disappeared as soon as I installed the dampener. Just to clarify yes I clearly broke the stud because I failed lefty loosey righty tighty class 101. The noise in the garage is minor compared to the places I visit during the week.

My wifes started to operate today until I realized they were on Auto and I had just entered the car wash.

Where is the spare located?

Did you get the pads seated correctly in to the cylinder slots on the caliper pistons?

Is the sway bar link solid? sometimes they break and unless you pull on it you would not see that is it broken. Also do you recognize the noise of an antilock brake activation. Might be strange but when turning the wheel speed interpretation could cause the antilock to activate quickly.