enigma-2

Did they use Motorcraft or aftermarket?

Goodness. You own a car lot!

To be specific, covers Ford Edge's built between April 25, 2017 to June 20, 2017, and have the 2.0 L engine eith the 6F35 tranny.

Page 82 of the owners manual lays out the conditions of what is acceptable for condensation and what is not. [sic] "Exterior lamps have vents to accommodate normal changes in air pressure. Condensation can be a natural by-product of this design. When moist air enters the lamp assembly through the vents, there is a possibility that condensation can occur when the temperature is cold. When normal condensation occurs, a fine mist can form on the interior of the lens. The fine mist eventually clears and exits through the vents during normal operation. Clearing time may take as long as 48 hours under dry weather conditions. Examples of acceptable condensation are: The presence of a fine mist (no streaks, drip marks or large droplets). A fine mist covers less than 50% of the lens. Examples of unacceptable condensation are: A water puddle inside the lamp. Streaks, drip marks or large droplets present on the interior of the lens. If you see any unacceptable condensation, have your vehicle checked by an authorized dealer."

Check at your local NAPA dealer. Most Ford dealers look to local NAPA dealer as parts supply for parts they don't stock. Should run about $30-$40 each.

Usually wheel size makes a difference. IE shocks for an 18" wheel are different from a 20", which are different from a 21". Aftermarket supply universal only. A compromise.

Not certain about other makes, but Tryco makes a line of direct replacment wipers. For my 09 MKX they carry 10 different types (or styles) each designed to fit a hook style connection; mostly without an adaptor. (They also make some that are universal, but I dont use them). However, the back blade is only a universal style. I've used mostly Tryco since I was discharged from the service over 40 years ago. Tried other brands and never found anything that worked better. NAPA carries them if your unable to find locally. I've also found them at Meyers. FYI http://www.tricoproducts.com/Drivers/InstallationVideos?TrVehicleMakeModelYearIdent=8693&TrProductIdent=19&TrArmTypeIdent=1 On my last replacment set, I had a bad blade on the drivers side (It jumped across the windshield creating a thumping, squeeking sound, and didn't clean propetly). Called Tryco and they sent me a new blade immediately. No questions asked, didn't have to supply a sales receipt. Great company to work with. .

BosCH is excellent, I prefer Tryco. (Tryco is usually what the OEM manufacturers use. But NOT what you get at the dealer for replacment - which can be anything the dealer chooses to stock. Local dealer parts counter told this to me years ago, and verified by service maanger at a later date). To make your blades last, start with a super clean windshield: (I did this nearly a year ago and still beads water) And clean your blades whenever you refill the tank (take the sponge on the backside of the squeegee they provide at the pump and, wet as possible, run it across the length of the blade. To make blades last as long as possible (true of whatever brand you use) spray a coating od 303 Protectant on the blades 3-4 x year. The way blades fail is, the UV causes as chemical reaction in the rubber and they get hard. The Protectant will block the damage from UV.

We're watching the Olympics from Sout Korea and it turns out that Russia has been banded for cheating. The only Russian athletes that are allowed, compete under the name OAR, Olympic Athlete of Russia.

Standard stuff, I'd go with stainless steel. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F371459309174

Ur local wally world or hardware will have many varieties of self-adhesive bumpers.

See if this helps https://itstillruns.com/fix-window-falls-down-door-6167627.html

The steel has to be completely clean, dry & bonded properly. Problems come from trapping moisture between the coating and the metal. Older coatings split and chip, allowing moisture to migrate between the coating and become trapped there. I had one of my cars undercoated professionally. They cleaned the bottom with steam, allowed to dry for couple of hours then the coating. Had to take it back every year for touchup. Still rusted in spots they could reach.

OM says it's a 590 (or 760 with 2.0L and start/stop).

Guess I'm a little confused. Does the car crank, but not fire, or do you get a no-crank condition?

Deleted. Dup

I would contact Weathertech. Your back sounds defective. Mine lays completely flat.

Had the same problem a few weeks ago. Here's a link to my write up as to how to fix. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/23597-windshield-washer-nozzle/?fromsearch=1 .

Can't say, haven't used this product. This is specifically designed for headlights, requires UV to cure. Stuff I use, once/twice yr, only air drys and probably lasts only to first carwash. Don't feel like laying out $$ for a UV light, but this stuff can be cured in strong sunlight when temps are over 70°. Any refetences for using clearcoat on lens? Longevity, damage to polycarbonate over time, etc.?

Delete. Dup.

Ah. Well that's close to Maryland. (From his profile).

Requires special tools and a UV light to cure the sealant, but this looKs like the (one of) the best method to use. Lasts for three years, sane process as used oem. https://www.jbtoolsales.com/presta-137306-headlight-sealant/?gclid=CjwKCAiAtdDTBRArEiwAPT4y-7b4FyCGxLw_rbS3mU0XsRvEICgQc9A870SPwAMa4fJPBmWR4ce7HxoCN7EQAvD_BwE

100 miles of ... where?

Just noticed that there is a new OEM PTU for sale on Ebay for $700 (free shipping), in case there's anyone who's looking for one. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F181751271842

Nice, I sort of like the front end (still on the fence, guess it's soooo different). Don't care for the dirty, brown tires though. lol