enigma-2

"Cracking knuckles"? Sounds like strut tower bushings. They can size and not rotate, forcing the spring to jump from point-to-point instead of rotating smoothly. As above, new struts, bushings and shocks.

I've read that the John Deere LA-105 & 115 series are manufactured at Greeneville, Tennessee plant. I know the units sold at big box stores are not the same as the LA series sold by dealers; Home Depot, Lowes and the like each have their own specifications.

On Simplicity you press it once and it stays connected. Light on dash to remind it set to on.

Whow. This is a 2017? I'm stunned. Went out and looked at my 09 and no rust. Should be covered under new car warranty.

Tweeeeeeeetttttttt! Tweeeeettt. Tweeetttt. Tweeeeetttttttttttttttttttt.

That's because you don't have an alien whistle.

Alien whistles? Oh please. Next you'll be telling me that my tinfoil hat doesn't work.

Course the dog is chewing his toenails down to the nubs, but hey! no mice.

I honestly dont remember who the three Ford dealers were, I Googled and these three had forms you fill out online. As far as "non-negotiatable", that's his starting position. Take him three quotes (or just one) showing a lower bid. He'll reopen the bidding. He knows he will have to match or lose the sale. Doesn't matter who you buy from, any Ford dealer can sell the Ford extended warranty at any price he wants and all Ford dealers will honor it. As to what's covered, my MKX had 115,000 on it when I bought this warranty (my 2nd extended warranty) and this one just coveres the powertrain (engine, transmission, ptu, axles, a few other things like road service, etc. I can do any service I choose, but like any warranty, they will not cover any screwups I make. I usually take it to the dealer, but change my own filters, etc. I mainly bought this warranty to cover the PTU (they changed it on the last extended warranty), and the water pump. Big stuff. .

You can buy a new one on Ebay for $600 and have a local shop put it in. https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.com%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F183077529543

Ummmmmmm, yes and no. I got a quote from three online dealers, took them to my local dealer and they matched the lowest. And then sweetened the deal by going to $0 deductible if I take the car to them for service ($100 at other deakers).

If your referring to the grease fittings on the blade spindles, they are not grease fittings. They are weep vents. If you look closely, there are no check valves in the top. (They just look like zerk fittings). The reason is, in ALL mower decks, the bearings are sealed. It's not possible to grease them. If you shoot grease in the fittings, the only real value is to reduce the possibility of moisture rusting the shaft above the bearing. I asked an engineer at Simplicity why did they even bother putting them in (as they serve no real purpose). He said that the customers (and some older dealers) demand they do so. Old wives tale, that the consumers believed that the bearings will last longer if they shot some grease in there. The reason they pulled the check valve out of the top is because there is no place for the grease to go, that it would build up and under pressure (these assembles go hot in use) the grease would put undo pressure on the bearings. With just an open hole the grease can escape when the assemblies pressurize in use. As I stated in a previous post, my dealer also carries Cub Cadet. Immediately stared me away from it, too many complaints. Carry the brand as so many in the area are fans and devoted. For upscale quality, Simplicity or John Deere. John Deere is top quality (not the big box models), and Simplicity has several nice features that a Deere doesn't; and excellent quality. For an acre or lot, standard lot, Craftsman, especially when on sale. Made by AYP, represents best value in an intermediate level mower. Granted, AYP makes s dozen brands just by changing the color and label, Sears has their own standards and they will be there when you need service or parts. Good luck if you buy at a big box store.

The felow I talked to made me feel that they were expecting Ford to give them the information, but Ford is dropping the ball. I doubt Ford is changing suppliers as HERE supplied the database for Sync 3. Left me feeling that someone at Ford just forgot about this.

They are serviceable. Only $1800 to replace. (cough)

If your running a Sync 2, here's one link: https://www.amazon.com/Lincoln-Navigation-Explorer-Mustang-GM5T-19H449-AB/dp/B074CPLC21 Sync 3 still hasn't been released. I talked with HERE maps about Sync 3, they said that Ford has never contacted them about map update for Sync 3.

Just for reference, here's a video from Mactfordedge on the location for the water pump weep hole.

Probably a low pressure area. Try cleaning it thoroughly and polishing it with a good Carbona. Nothing sticks to a good wax job,

Is this cool or what? It's a 6 LED, 5.5mm Waterproof Borescope Inspection Camera that plugs into your Andorid cellphone, for $3 + $4 shipping. (Used for peaking inside the engine, or wherever.) https://www.amazon.com/Vanvler-Endoscope-Waterproof-Borescope-Inspection/dp/B078MMVMXZ/ref=sr_1_12?s=movies-tv&ie=UTF8&qid=1518826634&sr=1-12&keywords=windows+xp+for+windows+10

I have a mulches kit for my Simplicity, but can't use it in the spring when blue grass is going nuts. Works great in summer if I don't try to go too fast or mow wet(ish) grass. From just a personal perspective, I don't like keeping a unit for too long, the new stuff has real advantages. Looks nicer ;-) and with the modern stuff, eliminates the worry of failure. I kept my last unit too long, 8 years, Briggs Professional, started it up on afternoon and went to full throttle. Turns out they use plastic parts for the governor INSIDE THE ENGINE. Have to remove the engine and tear it down to change. Had the dealer pick it up and he co u lfnt get the electric clutch off the engine shaft (welded itself on). I went down and verified it was welded on. Only way to get it off was to destroy it. Add this cost to labor and you can guess it's not worth to repair these units when the get old. Not like to old days when duct tape and WD40 fixed everthing.

Here's a Youtube video showing how to use Kool-It to disinfect the HVAC housing. Not on the firewall, but you should be able to get to it nonetheless. https://youtu.be/Bi22mdXj3wM Here's the product on Amazon.com https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_kIlHAb25PNB7R .

Generally of the drivers side is wet you would suspect the HVAC drain. By "pax", if your referring to the passenger side being wet, you may have developed a leak around the moon roof (if equipped). Others have reported it runs down the channel into the floor boards. Another place these cars leak is in the door hinge area. Couple of thoughts on the flapping noise. One could be one of the front mud flaps. Another could be a part of the underbelly cover had come loose. Test is easy enough, wiggle the mud flaps and see if you can recreate. And/or look under the car and see if the underside looks completely intact. (Usualky it's just a fastener or two that's been lost, easy fix. Rubbing sound turning left - mud flap loose, snow, ice buildup. Plastic fender well may be suspect, but that would be somewhat extreme. Still, should be visible, back the car out of the garage, turn hard left and do a visual in both front wheelwells.

CV joint going bad.

There have been a lot of complaints about buting at Lowes. No one the can service them. I've also head a lot of complaints about the low end JD sold there. They have the John Deere name, but there cheapened up to compete with the less expensive brands. Cub cheapened up a lot after they sold. My local dealer carry the brand, but has a lot of complaints of the quality. (Not the Cub of old). Personally I own a Simplicity Broadmore, but you're not going to get close with either a better John Deere or Simplicity for $1500. The important thing to remember is, tractors of today are NOT the quality of 15 years ago. If you want to go cheap, look at Craftsman (made by AYP). Especially when they are on sale. There's another forum I belong to that has excellent advice, pros and regular owners. Maybe a better place to ask for advice as it's only about lawn tractors http://www.lawnmowerforum.com/forumdisplay.php/1-Equipment-Forums

Mactfordedge did a video on the replacments.

Coolant first. New plugs if you have >90k miles. Like WWWPerfA stated, transmission and PTU (if you have AWD). Open for argument, but tranny at 60K, PTU ~30k. Brake fluid and power steering around 100k (or 6 years). Blinker fluid as needed ;-)