enigma-2

So what's the problem? Everyone knows that England always foggy, but Nebraska. Nebraska doesn't have any fog! (grin) https://www.carid.com/2017-ford-edge-fog-lights/ When adding "fog" lights, remember that the real purpose of fog lights are to illuminate just the edge of the road, as your are driving very slow and are just trying to stay on the road. They are not driving lights (as some think).

Off topic, but ... coming home on a bypass about an hour ago, driving a little over the speed limit, passing a car in tbe right lane and he decided to speed up and pace me. Kid behind me couldn't stand it. Right up my exhaust pipe. No hood, mothing but windshield in the rear view. Soooo, I stayed on cruise control. Radar detector was showing a cop was about 1-2 miles up ahead, so I slowly backed off allowing the guy in the right-hand lane to pull ahead. Kid behind me zpiped over into the right lane, and shot around me giving me a nasty look as he passed. He then cut over in front with inches to spare and floored it. The radar detector was now flashing. (Right now y'all know where this is going). Now he was about 500 ft ahead of me, floored, probably doing at least 80, and .... brake lights; toooooooo late. It's the little things ... ?

Try to negotiate in a coolant change, PTU fluid change and spark plugs if it has more than 80,000 miles. Make certain it has all of the Sync updates, demand the garage update the system if not. If it has new tires, look at them carefully. Dealers like to throw on the cheapest and you will not be happy with them. Off to pay the difference for top of the line. (I like Bridgestone Dueler's but that just my preference.)

Yea. I prefer watching a move myself, but to each their own....

Correct me if I'm wrong, but doesn't engaging the Max AC just close the recirculation door? The AC compressor runs if either the setting is set to defrost or Max AC. Setting it to Max AC just allows the system to run colder, running on defrost runs both AC and heat to the windshield; just takes a little longer is all. Are you saying that your defroster doesn't run the compressor? (I believe to doesn't run at all below a certain temperature).

I don't think that it's just a Ford problem, as it happens to a lot of different cars. One reason could be that the back glass is made from tempered glass, not laminated glass. Tempered glass will explode when struck with a sharp or pointed object. The glitch in all of this is, the blow could have happened a year earlier. Because this can happen at any time and by a cause well.out of a manufacturers control, they do not warranty glass. But your insurance company may depending on your policy

Don't know, but I believe there are different FOB's that look the same, bUT only one it the right one for your car. Perhaps the dealer use the wrong software choice and bonked the car?

The fuse would be in the battery fuse panel, labeled something like Body Control Module. But power could be coming through other fuses as well. (You MUST have a service manual to know for certain). If the lights are not working on one side I would suspect either thd bulbs or ballast (if HID). But that's only a guess. As your under warranty run it over to your dealer and let him sort it out.

Do you have ghe latest software update for both Sync and the phone? Any possibility that another signal is interfering with the car? (You could try making a connection at a remote location to see if it's there's a problem around your home). Possible that it's the location of your phone in relation to the car that's the problem. Try moving the phone around to see if that makes a difference.

Read that the Halagen's were powered through the body control module fuses, a 2017 (not Edge, forget the model, but probably the same).

Probably using circuit breakers instead of fuses.

Just buy a new one off Ebay and have the dealer cut the key (or locksmith).

Hi, and welcome to the forum. Unfortunately if you have only one FOB you will have to go to the dealer, buy another one, have them hook up the new one to the computer and program it. Also have the key cut to your door. This may be an expensive event. You may be able to save money by buying a IA off Ebay and using a local locksmith to do the programming and key cut. As the car is new (to you), consider verifying previous maintenance. It's important to change the fluids such as coolant and AWD on schedule. Also, the plugs need to be changed at 90k miles. Going longer can damage the coils.

^^^ 2x Files on the Web could very well be corrupted. Load it in your ACU and you could very well brick your unit. Wait until you can download the exact file needed for your VIN. There's nothing so important that it can't wait a week or two.

What, no tweeting?

https://www.cnbc.com/2018/01/16/ford-shares-fall-after-giving-disappointing-2018-eps-guidance.html

I switched to these and am well satisied. Cheapest fix without going to HID and adding glare to oncoming drivers. Philips 9005 X-tremeVision Upgrade Headlight Bulb, 2 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5QY7DW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7-tyAbPZ3SMSA

Also have a 2009 MKX and would never drop down to an Edge. Lincoln dealer get you a loaner? (Mine's still under extended warranty & I get a loaner if they keep overnight.) Wonder why it's taking so long to find problem?

Was on a business trip today, few hundred miles, mind wandering, got to thinking, what would navigation be like if they used Ozzy Osborne for the voice? Or perhaps Tiny Tim ("Tip Toe Through The Tulips" fame). Or perhaps the foul-mouthed Marine drill sergeant R. Lee Ermey? "Turn now, maggot. You missed the turn, you worthless moron, get #### outta you ears. Now make a ####### U turn. NOW YOU WORTHLESS PIECE OF ####. TURN or I'll kill the ignition". Mind wonders after an hour or two on the road and nav voice gets annoying.

The 30k service is in the owners manual under severe service. I wouldnt consider any other fluids other than Motorcraft. It's folly to think that Ford wouldn't know best as what to use.

One other consideration to consider is the lease contract will require you to turn in the car in same condition (less normal wear) as when you received it. This means you will be charged for every ding, scratch, road rash and anything else they find during the return inspection. And not just the dealer, the leasing company (who actualky owns the car) can also find problems and send a separate bill even after the dealer has signed off. Had a business associate that got "dinged" over $700 when he turned in his Navigator. (And he was fanatical about taking care of his car).

According to the owners manual it's 150,000 miles or 30,000 if you tow a trailer or carry a load on the roof. I agree with akirby's post, at 60,000 intervals (30,000 if you use the car for towing). Also change the coolant (more important than transmission) and don't forget brake fluid & PTU fluid (if equipped). Of all the fluids, coolant is the most important.

Bell Automotive 22-1-01000-8 Black Deer Warning https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CC4O58/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mzayAbQ0Y0CHE

OK, I called HERE Maps and there is NO release for Sync-3 cars, because .... (long pause to test patience), is because, Ford has NOT sent HERE Maps any information on the Sync-3 system. Yet. It appears (at least on the surface), that no one was assigned to follow up on this minor detail, in Ford. FAKE ENGINEERING! (ok, sorry, got carried away).

Wonder if the technician checked the connector running to the sensor. Often there's hidden corrosion in the connectors that's hiding the real problem. We had a hanger queen CH-46 (helo) in Nam, that had been down for over two weeks. We checked everything, every inch of wire in every harness. Changed several modules. Finally called in the Boeing rep and he went right to the connector on the generator. Corroded. (We had this connector off to couple test equipment to the generator, but no one ever thought to look inside the wiring connector).