enigma-2

You can rin a comparison between the two sizes with this calculator: https://www.discounttire.com/learn/tire-size-calculator

If your concerned that it's not your battery and may be a parasitic draw, drawing down the battery when the car is off, try the following troubleshooting procedure. To test for a parasitic draw, disconnect the positive lead of the battery and attach a milliamp meter in series between the disconnected battery lead and the positive terminal. This will show the amount of curent being drawn by the car when shut off. It should be a couple hundred milliamps. (Varies between vehicles). If it's more, there's a parasitic draw occurring. The way to isolate which circuit is at fault, is to pull each fuse, one at a time, and check the VOM to see if the draw has stopped. When it stops, that circuit is suspect. (Note, go through all fuses when you do this to make certain you found all draws). Once you have the circuit, you will need a schematic of your cars electrical system, especially for that circuit. You will then need to start unplugging various connectors in the circuit until the draw stops. Once you isolate the component, you can address it's repair or replacment. Note that this type of troubleshooting will not interfere with a warranty or extended warranty. You can buy a cheap multimeter (called a VOM or Volt-Ohm-Milliamp) meter on Ebay for less that $10. For example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/310953818136

What differences do you see with the Monroe's compared to the Motorcraft's? Did you change the rear shocks as well?

What differences do you see with the Monroe's compared to the Motorcraft's? Did you change the rear shocks as well?

I was only thinking of things to try before replacing the camera. Have no idea if it will work, but doesn't cost anything to try. I read in other forum that this problem was also traced to a corroded camera connector. Try the reset and if it doesn't fix it, pull the camera connector and look for corrosion. If you don't find anything, your down to changing the camera.

Master reset will erase the eeprom (all of your user data, nav settings, destinations, those type of things). Make a note of all your information before you reset.

Ummm, reminds me of a set of twins back in high school that .....

Gas brands will mix a cold water antifreeze in the gas for winter blends. The problems with gasline freeze ups comes from running a fall mix into winter months. The switch over occurs in anticipation of freezing weather, but often an early cold snap can catch the oil companies off guard and get fall gas (no antifreeze) in a winter situation, leading to freeze ups. A can of HEET is useful in late fall to dissipate free water.

Try this. Go into the menus and turn OFF everything associated with the rear camera. Then touch the HOME button and put car in reverse. If tbe camera is now working, go back in and turn on all the camera controls (camera, lines, etc.)

After look at your refernces, I agree, it's actually a bait and switch. Here's an article on Ford's strut and spring assys. They call them "loaded" struts. Reading tbe article from August, they don't include the Edge or MKX yet. (Probably next year). http://www.moderntiredealer.com/product/724751/ford-has-new-line-of-motorcraft-loaded-struts

Google: $63.50 ea. https://autoplicity.com/3937454-motorcraft-ast913-strut-assembly

Several of us here in this forum are using a Solar BA-7 battery tester. Much more accurate than what the use at the dealership. Also tests the alternator & regulator to see if it's working properly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yKV0zbEMGKJ2W

Nice. But What about the engine cover? lol

Not to steal the thread, but I seen an add in a magazine for Motorcraft quick struts (fully assembled strut assembly with new springs).

Have you tried turning them back on? > Menu > Vehicle > Rear View Camera The fixed guideline options are ON and OFF.

If your talking about the blowout around 13 minutes, notice he's putting the air tube all the way into the cylinder and then blowing it out. The air and any debris is being ejected out of the cylinder, not into it. Also notice that he did a blowout around 10 minutes while the plug was still in. I don't see any appreciable dirt being added into the cylinder after he removed the plug.

This the one I use with my Android. ScanTool 426101 OBDLink MX Bluetooth: Professional OBD-II Scan Tool for Android & Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006NZTZLQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_GhTZzbR0P8B0F Can't modify the car's internal settings (need laptop for that), but you can monitor hundreds of values.

Another route that one could follow in refilling a cooling system would be the use of a premixed coolant. Such as Peak Global Lifetime 50/50. Meets Ford ESE-M97B44-A and Ford WSS-M97B51-A1 standards and doesn't change OEM coolant color. The water used in the mix is deionized water, which is better than distilled and reverse osmosis water. Just pout it in and your done. Easy/peasy. No matter what's used, the warranties on the coolants always require a full drain and flush. I would also think that if a change in coolant is performed, the flush should also include a neutralizer as well. The problem with flushing a coolant system usually figuring out how to drain tbe entire system. The closed thermostat presents a formidable blockage in completely draining the engine. In the past I've used a Prestone flush kit where you install a garden hose tee connector in the 3/4" heater hose. It flushed the system using the garden hose by back-flushing the engine and heater core.

According to the owners manual the lines in the 2014 are fixed (pg 201, 202). You might be thinking of a later year.

Is that mic also part of the noise cancellation system?

Honestly no, probably have to pop the inside hatch cover. Perhaps someone who's done this will chime in.

N. Indiana, I just replaced a set of Bridgestone Dueler H/L 422 Ecopia's 245/50R20 with a new set. Very satisfied with them. Reasonably quiet even when well worn. Quiet, smooth, energy efficient. Definitely not cheap. Local dealer price matched to Tirerack.Com + got Ford rebate for credit AND Bridgestone rebate, and interest free for one year.

One other thing I would check is to check the camera connector for any corrosion, particularly around the ground wire pin. (Simple, no-cost option before laying out any $$$).

I have an existing extended warranty which is due to expire in October. Been working with two on-line dealers on obtaining a new extended warranty to cover for another 3 years. Just been informed that most (not all) warranties will be going up as of October 5th. No one seems to know how much, but last time the average for the Edge/MKX platform was ~$200. Ford has announced that none of the plans will be going down. Anyway I printed out the best offer (Lombard Ford) & took it to my local dealer. He shot me a price and then I sprung the on-line price on him. Instantly matched. And then he bettered it by offering a $0/deductible if I bring it to their service department for service (as I do anyway). Plan I'm going to go with is the $0/deductible ($100/deductible at other dealers), BASE CARE for 3 years/36,000 miles. (Thinking tranny sensors, water pump, PTU & axle seals and parts known to fail around this time/milage). Has car scheduled to inspection on Friday. Just FYI for anyone else sitting on the fence over whether to buy an extended warranty or not. In a few day it may cost $hundreds more. BTW, you can charge it to the Ford Credit Card and take a year to pay it off with no interest!!! (Can apply for a credit card right at the service desk).

Good to know. In addition, you can run a test on the gen 1 EATC module by pressing the OFF and DEFROST buttons together, the within 2 seconds, press the AUTO button. The heat/cool display will show 4 bars indicating the test mode has been enetted and then any codes will be displayed. 88 88 indicates the test passed. When done, it's important to exit the test mode by pressing the DEFROST button or BLUE temp down button (others may work as well).