enigma-2

If you follow the reference above, it really does seem that exhaust noise 'is' being piped in under hard acceleration. The author in the other forum clearly stated that disconnecting the module made his car quieter. About the only way one could verify that the same "enhancement" exists in the Edge Sport is to disconnect the same two wires and listen.

Gotta remember to change the air in my tires. Still running on summer air.

This is what the warranty says: Damage Caused by Alteration or Modification The New Vehicle Limited Warranty does not cover any damage caused by: alterations or modifications of the vehicle, including the body, chassis, electronics or their components, after the vehicle leaves the control of Ford Motor Company tampering with the vehicle, tampering with the emissions systems or with the other parts that affect these systems (for example, but not limited to exhaust and intake systems) the installation or use of a non-Ford Motor Company part or software (other than a certified emissions part or software) or any part or software (Ford or non-Ford) designed for off-road use only installed after the vehicle leaves the control of Ford Motor Company, if the installed part fails or causes a Ford part to fail. Examples include, but are not limited to lift kits, oversized tires, roll bars, cellular phones, alarm systems, automatic starting systems and performance-enhancing powertrain components or software and performance chips.

This may help You can find a complete replacment, or just the innards and glass on Ebay.

So I suppose posting a video on how to change your muffler bearings would also be controversial? (Geeze, works for Trump..)

Have you gotten her yet?

Doesn't appear to be anything on YouTube, except one for a 2011 rear drivers door. Problem is, he didn't replace the switch, just cut and grounded to wire (simulating a closed door). Appears to work but the dome light will never turn on when you open just that door.

Haven't used this, is it like Scotch Guard,

Nice. Like to pillow, nice match.

All other things considered, the first item do you burnish the brakes after you change them? Breaking them in properly is important to getting good life. The second item is HOW you drive. Rotors that exhibit pulsating (aka warped) are almost always caused by excessive heat. Multiple high speed stops not allowing the brakes to cool between each use, lots of downhill driving where your forced to ride the brakes, each of these can cause to rotors to "warp". Does anything in your driving style correspond to any of these conditions? .

Like Mikula said, I've also found that these incidious lights get my attention, even if I'm looking somewhere else. They do grab your attention but it's ALWAYS annoying. Art is right, if your looking down you won't see the flashing, but your not supposed to be looking at your cell phone when there are other cars around. Right?

How old is your battery? Weak battery can cause all kinds of electrical problems as so much of the car is controlled by computers.

303 is widely regarded as a an excellent protectant. Good for wiper blades, belts (I spray it on belts while the car is running), and door weatherstripping. The fellow in the video has many other youtube videos, seems creditable. Keep in mind on all of this, that the key is in using it every three months. I haven't tried it on my tires yet, just too lazy. Lot of work. But keeping elastomeric and flexible plastics supple will make them last longer. Its simple, dried out rubber wears faster. In all honesty, it's silly to claim that it will never work just because you never tried it. It does seems extreme, but the guy has a known business reputation to maintain, and would be a fool to go on youtube and lie. Try not to be so closed minded in all of this, ok to quesion but to call me a "troll". As far as ArmorAll, ArmorAll Extreme Tire Shine Gel is absolutely the best product to make a tire sidewall shine. But you would never use it on the tread. (Well, most of us wouldn't). 303 works differently. Again, every 3 months.

Try laying just under the side of the car and push up on the each of the panels. Probably one is loose.

I doubt the current draw is any worst than a radar detector. I'm powering my Escort MAX2 off the mirror. Should work fine.

Hard to make out. I had a sound somewhere simular. It turned out to be the windshield defroster grill that had popped up on the right side. Pushed it back down (when I finally found it) and that stopped it.

How about "The Gredge". (Green-Edge)

Follow up. I pulled the blower and it seemed to be ok. No apparent way to oil the bearings. Will wait until it finally goes. Will replace with Motorcraft when it does, as the others had bad ratings.

Confusing.What do you mean by this? (Seats have heaters and/or air conditioning).

Looks like my blower is going dry, starting to make noise. Intermittent so far, but definitely getting to the point where I need to replace. Looking over the market, I can buy a TYC for $42, a Truman for $46 or a Motorcraft for $123. Has anyone else replaced their blower with one of the off brands and are you happy with the decision?

Sounds like two days is a little long. I had a seat lumbra motor strip it's gears. They had to pull the seat, pull all the guts out of the seat back and replace everything in two hours. Don't believe you get a loaner unless you own a Lincoln or its covered under your warranty. You can always grab a rental from Enterprise. Think I got one from them at $32/day.

Like lildisco said, bulbs do make a difference. The best Halagen are Phillips X-tremeVision. Quick, fast upgrade for better light. Here's one of the styles I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01C5QY7DW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cQIcAbBDSJ2QZ

What brand/model bulbs were you replacing?.

Had the same question on my last update. Dealer technician told me it's not just updating Sync, they are also updating other modules that require connection through their computer. These modules need to be updated prior to loading new Sync software.

Years and years ago, my uncle dug a pit about 4 ft deep, and dropped his transmission by squatting in this pit. For an engine I would imagine you would need to get down at least 6 ft. (But, yea, you "can" do it without a lift). Hook a portable engine lift to the engine, pull the fasteners, drop it into the pit, push the car back, pull to old engine out of the pit, drop the new engine into pit, push the car back and hoist the new engine into the engine bay. .