enigma-2

Also controlled by the PCM through the ECT ( basically a thermistor) to lean out or enrich the mixture if it's running cool or hot.

Check to shielding under the car. May have lost a push pin fastener.

You might find this video interesting. FordTechMakuloco also states they did dyno testing and found they actually decrease H/P with reusable filters.

New icons!!!

Insurance. Falls under uninsured motorest policy. Probably have to pay the deductible unless you know who did it (then his insurance pays).

I found a better product that lasts a lot longer. Clean your windshield with water, then I use SuperClean degreaser, follow with clay bay (I use water as a lubricant), dry and finish Carbona wax. Buff with a microfiber towel. Lasts and lasts, nothing sticks to it. Bugs wash right off.

Cargo depth with all rows up: 34.5″ on the floor, 27″ deep at the narrowest point (seat back 20.5″ above floor level) Cargo depth with the second row down: 60″ Hatch dimensions: 31″ tall, 32″ to 48″ wide https://4pdrive.wordpress.com/category/vehicle-reviews/ About 3/4 down the page.

This is the correct one for 2.0l 2016. Interesting how they claim 70% increase over OEM (as if Ford is incapable of making a filter that allows more air through. They way they do this is to not filter the fine particles around 100 micron and smaller. Those that will scour the cylinder walls). http://afepower.com/afe-power-30-10215-magnum-flow-pro-5r-air-filter FWIT here's the OEM version: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009B5THUE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3Lr2zbCJ95YDF

You check the fuse?

Several aftermarket cameras have a separate wire you cut to reverse the image.

You can rin a comparison between the two sizes with this calculator: https://www.discounttire.com/learn/tire-size-calculator

If your concerned that it's not your battery and may be a parasitic draw, drawing down the battery when the car is off, try the following troubleshooting procedure. To test for a parasitic draw, disconnect the positive lead of the battery and attach a milliamp meter in series between the disconnected battery lead and the positive terminal. This will show the amount of curent being drawn by the car when shut off. It should be a couple hundred milliamps. (Varies between vehicles). If it's more, there's a parasitic draw occurring. The way to isolate which circuit is at fault, is to pull each fuse, one at a time, and check the VOM to see if the draw has stopped. When it stops, that circuit is suspect. (Note, go through all fuses when you do this to make certain you found all draws). Once you have the circuit, you will need a schematic of your cars electrical system, especially for that circuit. You will then need to start unplugging various connectors in the circuit until the draw stops. Once you isolate the component, you can address it's repair or replacment. Note that this type of troubleshooting will not interfere with a warranty or extended warranty. You can buy a cheap multimeter (called a VOM or Volt-Ohm-Milliamp) meter on Ebay for less that $10. For example: http://www.ebay.com/itm/310953818136

What differences do you see with the Monroe's compared to the Motorcraft's? Did you change the rear shocks as well?

What differences do you see with the Monroe's compared to the Motorcraft's? Did you change the rear shocks as well?

I was only thinking of things to try before replacing the camera. Have no idea if it will work, but doesn't cost anything to try. I read in other forum that this problem was also traced to a corroded camera connector. Try the reset and if it doesn't fix it, pull the camera connector and look for corrosion. If you don't find anything, your down to changing the camera.

Master reset will erase the eeprom (all of your user data, nav settings, destinations, those type of things). Make a note of all your information before you reset.

Ummm, reminds me of a set of twins back in high school that .....

Gas brands will mix a cold water antifreeze in the gas for winter blends. The problems with gasline freeze ups comes from running a fall mix into winter months. The switch over occurs in anticipation of freezing weather, but often an early cold snap can catch the oil companies off guard and get fall gas (no antifreeze) in a winter situation, leading to freeze ups. A can of HEET is useful in late fall to dissipate free water.

Try this. Go into the menus and turn OFF everything associated with the rear camera. Then touch the HOME button and put car in reverse. If tbe camera is now working, go back in and turn on all the camera controls (camera, lines, etc.)

After look at your refernces, I agree, it's actually a bait and switch. Here's an article on Ford's strut and spring assys. They call them "loaded" struts. Reading tbe article from August, they don't include the Edge or MKX yet. (Probably next year). http://www.moderntiredealer.com/product/724751/ford-has-new-line-of-motorcraft-loaded-struts

Google: $63.50 ea. https://autoplicity.com/3937454-motorcraft-ast913-strut-assembly

Several of us here in this forum are using a Solar BA-7 battery tester. Much more accurate than what the use at the dealership. Also tests the alternator & regulator to see if it's working properly. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yKV0zbEMGKJ2W

Nice. But What about the engine cover? lol

Not to steal the thread, but I seen an add in a magazine for Motorcraft quick struts (fully assembled strut assembly with new springs).

Have you tried turning them back on? > Menu > Vehicle > Rear View Camera The fixed guideline options are ON and OFF.