enigma-2

Believe that's what I said. The FMVSS applies only the manufacturers of motor vehicles, and state DOT laws apply to motorists, how the operate their cars, how and whit what they can modify, etc. All state DOT laws mirror the FMVSS as to what every car must meet as a minimum. In exceeding the Federal Standards, states have differing laws as to light flashing, colors, max luminosity, etc. For example, here in Indiana, the state code address neon underlighting (which is not addressed in the FMVSS). The state law limits the neon license plate lighting to white only, and the underside, all combinations of red, white, blue and amber are illegal. (Purple is a combination of red and blue). .

The owners manual starts the lighting chapter by addressing condensation. "Condensation in the Exterior Front Lamps and Rear Lamps Exterior front lamps and rear lamps have vents to accommodate normal changes in air pressure." (This is on page 85 in the 2017 manual). They go.on to say "Examples of acceptable condensation are: The presence of a fine mist (no streaks, drip marks or large droplets). A fine mist covers less than 50% of the lens." Based on the pictures you uploaded, I would say your lenses don't exceed the Ford requirement for replacment. If the scratch goes deep enough to penetrate all the way through the plastic (no cat is going to scratch all the way through the plastic), you could reseal it with some clear fingernail polish or brush applied topcoat. Under normal conditions, warm, moist air enters the lens through the vent hole in the lens, and condenses in the cool night air. If you want to get ahead of this, you could get the water vapor out (hair dryer?) and close the vent with a piece of heavy, plastic sealing tape. .

As the vehicle has been sitting overnight and cold, it seems to me that it's related to combustion cycle during the warm up mode. About the only thing that comes to mind during early warm up is a burning off in the catalytic converter. I would get it into the Dealership immediately as it's definitely not supposed to do this. May have to leave it overnight to pull the codes during a cold start.

Actually they don't. The federal FMVSS applies only to vehicle manufactures; while state DOT laws (which mirror the FMVSS) govern the operation of your vehicle on public thoroughfares.

This site might may selection easier. https://ikeyless.com/keys-and-remotes/Ford?gclid=Cj0KCQjwm9vPBRCQARIsABAIQYcv0azEbxDlkRGb9rZw2nUhfMCMMNsAaqsXIdvxlDELL0xnpzMh7LcaAtkNEALw_wcB&type=Keys

Here's a manufacturer that offers a turn-key solution (for a price of course). At least you know that everything will work properly afterwards. https://www.infotainment.com/collections/all/products/myford-touch-sync-2-to-sync-3-upgrade Have you thought about how you're going to get updates, inasmuch as Ford will not supply them to you?

Service manual requires the engine to be dropped out of the car for service. Do you have coolant in the engine oil?

Philips 9005 VisionPlus Upgrade Headlight Bulb, 1 Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Y9VZLB4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_8-H9zbGKDZ1DM

What I would recommend are the Philips VisionPlus headlights: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00TNMMZ8Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_got9zbWPW3BNW (These are what I use in my MKX, much better distance vision the standard Halagen's and better than Sylvania Silverstar's). I would not recommend the blue tone lights as you can't see as far (the blue coating on the bulb attenuates a lot of the light) and the blue alters your focus (blue focuses in a different plane than yellow, more glare for the driver). I've read that these are also equally good, but I've never used them: OSRAM - Night Breaker Halogen Bulbs (Germany). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00G4L1V1Q/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Kwt9zb3CPA8V9

Did they retrain the sensor's? Simple procedure, the walk around to each wheel with a handheld device and it trains (teaches) the receiver to recognize each sensor). If one or more is not trained you will get this alarm.

Your battery has crystal buildup on the plates. It will continue to read good voltage until the end. Has voltage, but not the capacity. A new battery is the fix. --- Unrelated, CTEK wrote me back last night and told me that their charger's cannot demineralize a battery that has good (24+) voltage. My CTEK refused to start in level one (the desulphating phase). They suggested I hunt down a "local battery workshop" who may have "profesdional equipment" that can "revive" a battety. 《Snort》

Like jmr061 said, you have to call Sirus and subscribe. Forget exact price, guessing around $24/year but could be off. They are the only ones who can turn it on.

Yes. They have batteries in them, but should last more than five years. Do you have OEM wheels or aftermarket? Possible that someone put on aftermarket and cheaper out by not using sending units in each wheel.

Most likely a slow phase-in over th he next 10-20 years. Makes sense, higher voltag means smaller conductor sizes, saves bookoo dollars.

I would be more concerned as to why the fuse blew. It's under warranty, take it to the dealer, let them figure it out. No fuses listed for exterior lighting (other than headlights), so they may have switched to in line auto-reset circuit breakers. .

The antenna is mounted from the interior. You can easily access this area by removing the overhead console. To remove the console, grab the back (towards the rear of the car) of the console by sliding your fingernails between the console and the headliner & pull down. After you have the console out, disconnect the wires. (This is how you change the light bulbs in the console, (from the back of the console). It's possible that the antenna has loosened somehow. You may also have to remove the antenna and check the gasket.

Been reading about this in Road & Track and other periodicals, but this article has some interesting side notes about electrical superchargers with no drag and other near future changes. (Note that this is not science fiction, it's already in practice). https://www.extremetech.com/extreme/247889-cars-moving-48-volt-electrical-systems

When you stand (squat) outside the car, can you forcefully shake the seat bottom and make it shift?

Why????????????? Why would you not take it to a Ford dealer? My wife's car is Sebring Convertible and we NEVER take it to the local Chrysler dealer.

Mine just started doing this, radio would stay on after the door opened. Have to put the key in again to get it to shutoff. I shot some silicone in the key slot and it cured it (for now, obviously it's getting worn). Try some lubricant in the key lock.

Try running a HVAC module reset. Runs a full diagnostic, excercises the door motors and displays any error codes. (This procedure only works with Digital Climate Control Systems). ---------------------- To enter the self-test, press the OFF and floor buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTO button within two seconds. The display will show a dashed line in the center of the climate control display window of the integrated control panel (ICP). The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed. The self-test is completed when 888 appears in the center of the climate control display window of the ICP. (On mine a good test ends with 88 88). To exit the self-test and retain all intermittent Air Temperature Powertrain DTCs, press the (cooler) side of the TEMP Sensor Circuit Control/Emissions button. The RCC module will exit the self-test High Diagnosis(PC/ED)and retain all intermittent DTCs. To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the front defrost button. All RCC module DTCs will be cleared. Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned off).

My battety is just a little older than yours and measured at 475 CCAs (650 CCA rated). I slapped on a CTEK charger for 24 hours and too it off on level 7. Still only reading 479 CCA. The best tester is the Solar BA-7 (tests both the battery's capacity and charging system).

Bummer. I read some time ago in the Explorer forum of a felow having the same thing. Answer was if the fluid was red it was atf if brown it was oil. (Rear seal leaking). They felt it was impossible to determine without separating the engine from the transmission. Hope they are able to find it. You get a loaner?

I use the Android version of Forscan Lite. The transmission fluid temperature is in the PCM module. PCM.TFT (there 18 separate points to monitor under "transmission").

This may be a stupid response but I wonder if a product like Enddust would leave an invisible film behind to repel dust? http://www.qvc.com/Endust-Electronics-Multi-Surface-Anti-Static-Cleaner.product.E255313.html?colorId=000&sizeId=000&ref=GAS&cm_mmc=GOOGLESHOPPINGFEED-_-GShopping|M|Generic|electronics-_-pla-_-sGTlx0O4I|dm_313305909029__E255313-000-000_&mkwid=sGTlx0O4I|dm_pcrid_313305909029_pkw__pmt__productid_E255313-000-000&TZ=EST Or Chemical Guys Extreme Slick http://www.chemicalguys.com/Extreme_Slick_Synthetic_Detailer_16_oz_p/wac_116_16.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwg7HPBRDUARIsAMeR_0i2D1EhGfzFvtkCRFFMbjVtpXfHhn8RQLlvmDW0x2DzsnyMwohs61gaAi9CEALw_wcB