enigma-2

Everyone has their favorites when it comes to tires. I've had bad luck with Michelin in the past. Great up to around 20K the turned to ♧hit. Loud, harsh. Went back to Sam Club and the tire magager told me I had ran through the soft rubber and into the hard rubber now (soft rubber to give tire smooth, quiet ride, then hard rubber to give long milage. Only way to get long milage was to use rubber with harder qualities). My love affair with Michelin was over (and I read they are still doing this. In the Amazon user remarks). Anyway .... I used tirerack.com to narrow down the search when I decided to put on a set on new tires. After narrowing the search to 2-3 tires (based on user ratings and tirerack's testing), I then looked up these three on Amazon and read the user remarks over there. My first choice had been the Michelin's. Rated tops on tirerack.Com but on Amazon many users were reporting short tire life (10K in one example) so I decided to go with my number 2 choice, the Bridgestone's Duelers. (This had also been the same tire that I had on the car currently). https://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?tireIndex=1&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2007&autoModel=Edge+SEL&autoModClar=FWD&width=245%2F&ratio=60&diameter=18&sortCode=54053&skipOver=true&minSpeedRating=S&minLoadRating=S#0 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/s/ref=is_s?k=tires+245%2F60-18 Beware of any glowing user comments if they only are reporting after a 100 miles or so. You want to read how the tires are doing after 5k, 10K 20k. Over the long hull. How are the holding up? Are they still smooth and quiet? (Taking age into consideration). I've had no problems whatsoever with the Bridgestone's, fairly quiet, smooth and long lasting. As all tires grow louder and harsher with age, the Bridgestone's aged very well. Growing only slightly louder, mostly on cement. (As I'm running 20" wheels and have AWD, they may or may not be the best choice for your 18" wheels). Now as to price, I found tirerack.Com to be the lowest advertised price locally, (they actually have a tire store within 40 miles), I printed out the page and took it to my dealer. He started out by looking in his computer and quoting l'cheapo, garbage tires to suck me in, so I immediately countered with the tirerack quote; and he immediately matched. Nice thing about going through Ford, great mechanics (you know the job will be done right) and you can put it on your Ford Credit Card. Six months and no interest! Six months of OPM! And, they will match any published price. (They don't like to let you know this, all you have to do is ask). FWIW, I ask for a senior discount everywhere I go. Don't need it, just cheap. Get it usually too. We were in a very fancy, French restaurant in Seattle a few weeks ago, asked for a senior discount, waiter looked down on me and my wife like "you must be kidding". I sat there not saying anything, continued to stare at him ..... and he finally said something like "but of course" (French accent, probably fake). Got 5%. It's a contest you know. Just ask. Also, they will rebate you $50 for using their credit, and, I bought when Ford was offering a $75 rebate on Bridgestone, so got that discount as well. (Rebates came as two separate preloaded debit cards). You can sign up and get approved for Ford Credit Card right at the service desk. Took three minutes. (Having too many credit cards, or cards you never use, only lowers your credit score 5-10 points, so no biggie). Discount Tire is another good place to check as they do a lot of business and have never heard any bad remarks about them. .

Change the plugs, coolant & PTU fluids (if AWD) asap. Change tranny fluid. Then all other fluids (power steering, brakes & rear axle). Engine air filter, cabin air filter and seat filters (if seats are air conditioned). Check for abnormal wear on tires. (May need 4-wheel alignment). Check tire pressures (esp spare).

I don't have the 2013 service manual, but looking at the owners manual, fuse #6 is for the radio frequency module.

The 2013 Edge uses an 80 Bit transponder-equipped key to communicate between the FOB and the remote receiver. Strattec Corp is the only Ford authorized manufacturer of Ford 80 Bit IPATS key blanks. They also have SA stamped on the blade. (If if has HA on the blade it was manufactured by Huf, the only other authorized supplier, and is not an 80 Bit FOB). If your replacment does not have a S or SA stamped on the blade, it should be regarded as a 40 Bit FOB, and will not work in your car. .

If the dealer states that they can't change the fluid in the PTU and a new PTU must be installed, know that another dealer may be willing to change it. Also, most if not all transmission shops will change it. (Fluid has to be pumped out of the fill hole).

Ford requires the PTU and rear axle fluid to be changed after driving through a flooded street. These are vented assemblies and water will reduce the lubricating properties by q very large margin.

I believe that I would clean the FOB contacts first, just to eliminate the FOB. The fact that the car takes the programming and then doesn't retain the programming indicates that the RKE may be bad in the car. I don't know if would help or not, think I would try pulling the RKE fuses for a few minutes and see if it resets the unit.

The coils fail because the plugs were not changed. The gap grows too large, this requires more and more current to fire across the larger gap and this extra current heats up the coils over the safe operating temperature. When they get too hot, they fail. The PCM fails when a coil (or coils) fail. As the plugs were never changed, there are other areas to be concerned about. Change coolant, PTU lubricant (if AWD) and transmission fluid. Less important are brake, power steering and rear axle fluids. Wouldn't hurt to take a peek at the air filter, cabin air filter and seat blower filters (if you have seat cooling).

Its not a design flaw, nor should it be considered ad a recall item. It's a failure of thr owner to perform the routine maintenance of changing the plugs at 90,000 miles. When you replace the plugs and coils, you should be ok with the PCM. Usually it's the feedback from a defective coils that causes additional load on the output and the PCM fails. If it hasn't failed currently, it should be OK (no one can really tell without doing a lot of tests on the unit).

Common failure. I replaced the fan assembly on my 09, last year (still under extended warranty). You are going to need to replace the fan assembly (consists of both fans, support platform and fan controller). Whether you do it yourself (15 minutes, but you will need to get the car in the air), or have a garage do it, go with Motorcraft. Aftermarket have reported problems. Motorcraft runs about $220 w/o tow pkg, $260 with factory tow pkg.

Aftermarket panels are often made from a lighter gauge steel and not always made from galvanized steel. That being said, this aftermarket hood looks interesting: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MA3YLJ3/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Icr5zbH270ZHD

Any possibility the battery in the "new" FOB is dying? No way of knowing how long it sit at the sellers store front. Just a few bucks to rule this out.

X2 on everything Paul said. The only part I would add to, is servicing the transmission. Under "severe" service, the maintenance manual states change fluid at 30,000 miles if (1) pulling a trailer, camper or rooftop carrier, or (2) excessive idling or all local trips (think taxi). Basically, if your uncertain as the the service history, its best if you change ALL fluids.

May have been too much for the PCM.

Look at all the ratings shown on tirerack.Com. https://m.tirerack.com/tires/TireSearchResults.jsp?tireIndex=1&autoMake=Ford&autoYear=2016&autoModel=Edge+FWD&autoModClar=Sport&width=265%2F&ratio=40&diameter=21&sortCode=61028&skipOver=true&minSpeedRating=V&minLoadRating=S#0 Igor the winter tires and look closely at the OEM tires.

All drug stores, most large grocery stores, all jewelry stores (be prepared to pay through the nose), Amazon.com - Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D8P5T0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_mF84zb3P4H6KR Around here, the best price is at our local Martin's Grocery Store.

One word: Bondo. Seriously, here are the measurements taken off my 09 MKX. Length along drivers side, from top-of-cowl to chrome trim: 29-1/2". Width at cowl: 63-3/8" (straight line measurement, not along curve). Width at front (seam-to-seam, straight line, not along curve): 63". Length at center, top edge-to-chrome): 31".

FYI you can use a MirtorTap harness that plugs into the mirror's power connector to power a camera or radar detector. Takes only a few minutes to hook up, powers on when the car is started and disconnects on the power delay circuit (15 minutes or when a door is opened).

My 09 was leaving the radio on after I open the door. I sprayed silicone into the ignition cylinder and so far it hasn't reoccured. (But it's only a band aid I imagine).

My 09 MKX Maintenance Manual requires plug change at 90k. Sooner you change plugs better chance you avoid PCM (and future coil) failure. (Pay me now or pay me later...)

The short answer is yes. When the dealer connects to the IDS website, they use the car's VIN to retrieve it's specific "as-built" values. From this starting point, they can easily read any unauthorized changes. If they make changes (must be authorized to do so) they will also change the VIN database for your car, with the master at Ford/Lincoln. They are unable to make changes which were not allowed for your VIN. I was asking about my dealer turning on the backup camera on my car (the 2009 MKX did not come with a backup camera for the domestic models). Tech said he knew HOW to do it, but was not authorized to do so because my car did not allow this as an option for that year). One point to consider yiu must consider that making ANY changes can void your warranty in many unrelated areas of the card mechanical or electrical sysyems. For example, turning on the backup camera in my car could void my radio, amps, sync & navigation systems extended warranty. (Which at this point expires in a week). Installing a tune could void your cars complete engine and control systems and possibly more. (Tunes are specifically listed in the warrany statement as killing the car's warranty).

Single or dual controls?

Quick question. Do you know if your plugs have been changed? If you don't change the plugs around ~90k or so, the gap gets too wide, forcing the coils to draw too much current. Higher current cause heat and the coils fail. From only a guess, I would think the problem lies with a coil that's failing, not the PCM. When circuits fail, it's usually not intermittent (but that's not a hard, fast rule). Coils drawing extra current will fail intermittently, before then fail permanently. These types of failures are almost a lack of maintenance.

Some Ford extended warranties have "conditions" associated with them. On my current EW I have a $0 copay if I have it serviced at my local dealer. However if I take it to any other dealer, there's a $100 copay. That may have been what you were thinking of.

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