enigma-2

Your battery has crystal buildup on the plates. It will continue to read good voltage until the end. Has voltage, but not the capacity. A new battery is the fix. --- Unrelated, CTEK wrote me back last night and told me that their charger's cannot demineralize a battery that has good (24+) voltage. My CTEK refused to start in level one (the desulphating phase). They suggested I hunt down a "local battery workshop" who may have "profesdional equipment" that can "revive" a battety. 《Snort》

Like jmr061 said, you have to call Sirus and subscribe. Forget exact price, guessing around $24/year but could be off. They are the only ones who can turn it on.

Yes. They have batteries in them, but should last more than five years. Do you have OEM wheels or aftermarket? Possible that someone put on aftermarket and cheaper out by not using sending units in each wheel.

Most likely a slow phase-in over th he next 10-20 years. Makes sense, higher voltag means smaller conductor sizes, saves bookoo dollars.

I would be more concerned as to why the fuse blew. It's under warranty, take it to the dealer, let them figure it out. No fuses listed for exterior lighting (other than headlights), so they may have switched to in line auto-reset circuit breakers. .

The antenna is mounted from the interior. You can easily access this area by removing the overhead console. To remove the console, grab the back (towards the rear of the car) of the console by sliding your fingernails between the console and the headliner & pull down. After you have the console out, disconnect the wires. (This is how you change the light bulbs in the console, (from the back of the console). It's possible that the antenna has loosened somehow. You may also have to remove the antenna and check the gasket.

Been reading about this in Road & Track and other periodicals, but this article has some interesting side notes about electrical superchargers with no drag and other near future changes. (Note that this is not science fiction, it's already in practice). https://www.extremetech.com/extreme/247889-cars-moving-48-volt-electrical-systems

When you stand (squat) outside the car, can you forcefully shake the seat bottom and make it shift?

Why????????????? Why would you not take it to a Ford dealer? My wife's car is Sebring Convertible and we NEVER take it to the local Chrysler dealer.

Mine just started doing this, radio would stay on after the door opened. Have to put the key in again to get it to shutoff. I shot some silicone in the key slot and it cured it (for now, obviously it's getting worn). Try some lubricant in the key lock.

Try running a HVAC module reset. Runs a full diagnostic, excercises the door motors and displays any error codes. (This procedure only works with Digital Climate Control Systems). ---------------------- To enter the self-test, press the OFF and floor buttons simultaneously and then press the AUTO button within two seconds. The display will show a dashed line in the center of the climate control display window of the integrated control panel (ICP). The test may run as long as 30 seconds. Record all DTCs displayed. The self-test is completed when 888 appears in the center of the climate control display window of the ICP. (On mine a good test ends with 88 88). To exit the self-test and retain all intermittent Air Temperature Powertrain DTCs, press the (cooler) side of the TEMP Sensor Circuit Control/Emissions button. The RCC module will exit the self-test High Diagnosis(PC/ED)and retain all intermittent DTCs. To exit the self-test and clear all DTCs, press the front defrost button. All RCC module DTCs will be cleared. Always exit the self-test before powering the system down (system turned off).

My battety is just a little older than yours and measured at 475 CCAs (650 CCA rated). I slapped on a CTEK charger for 24 hours and too it off on level 7. Still only reading 479 CCA. The best tester is the Solar BA-7 (tests both the battery's capacity and charging system).

Bummer. I read some time ago in the Explorer forum of a felow having the same thing. Answer was if the fluid was red it was atf if brown it was oil. (Rear seal leaking). They felt it was impossible to determine without separating the engine from the transmission. Hope they are able to find it. You get a loaner?

I use the Android version of Forscan Lite. The transmission fluid temperature is in the PCM module. PCM.TFT (there 18 separate points to monitor under "transmission").

This may be a stupid response but I wonder if a product like Enddust would leave an invisible film behind to repel dust? http://www.qvc.com/Endust-Electronics-Multi-Surface-Anti-Static-Cleaner.product.E255313.html?colorId=000&sizeId=000&ref=GAS&cm_mmc=GOOGLESHOPPINGFEED-_-GShopping|M|Generic|electronics-_-pla-_-sGTlx0O4I|dm_313305909029__E255313-000-000_&mkwid=sGTlx0O4I|dm_pcrid_313305909029_pkw__pmt__productid_E255313-000-000&TZ=EST Or Chemical Guys Extreme Slick http://www.chemicalguys.com/Extreme_Slick_Synthetic_Detailer_16_oz_p/wac_116_16.htm?gclid=Cj0KCQjwg7HPBRDUARIsAMeR_0i2D1EhGfzFvtkCRFFMbjVtpXfHhn8RQLlvmDW0x2DzsnyMwohs61gaAi9CEALw_wcB

If it's just in the garage, hang a tennis ball from the ceiling so that it just touches the windshield when she's in far enough. (I use a Chamberlain parking aid that my wife has learned to ignore quite well). Ballpark Parking Ball - Lights Confirm Your Car Is In Exact Spot Every Time https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N5I3E4F/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_hQU6zb2GFFV56

It almost a sounds like your in a vicious circle of one thing leading to another. It is possible for the PCM to fry a coil. If it's defective it can tell coil #1 to fire continously, overheating the coil. Wouldn't think so as it's been replaced, but if a bad coil weakened the PCM and then replaced, allowing the PCM to now damage the coil. You could pull the PCM anf have it tested. If it's defective it's $300. https://circuitboardmedics.com/2007-2010-lincoln-mkx-pcm-ecm-repair/

Perhaps you can add parking sensors to the front bumper. (Like the ones on the rear, that beep when you get too close, only on the front).

The best advice is to replace your battery, it's probably going bad. As a battery ages, unless it's kept fully charged (it's slowly discharging even when the car is off), the plates will grow crystals, lowering the battery's capacity. If the new battety wad rated at, say, 650 CCA, a battery with crystalized plates may only be able to provide 400 CCAs. But, a standard battety test will still show that the voltage is ok. So even with good voltage the battery is still failing.

This is about the only thing I can think of (without hooking up a OBD II tester and reading the codes). It's a remote possibility, but while your fiancee was in the store someone backed into the car and tripped the fuel impact switch. This is designed to trip the fuel pump off (prevents fuel from being pumped out of the tank after an accidient). Car will crank but no fuel is being pumped. Brings up one more easy possibility, is there sufficient fuel in the tank? Car will drive and shut off ok, but if she parked on a grade with little fuel in tank, it's possible that the fuel can get drawn up but the pump. Other than that, there are dozens of items that can cause a no start. Have to pull the codes to narrow down to the system/part.

In addition to IWRBB's suggestion above, here's a SAE o-ring set for $14. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000OMKIDI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fNJ6zbGNPH1JT

No WiFi, just USB.

My old battery tested fine three times at local Ford dealer, showed bad when I used my Solar BA-7 tester. A regular tester measures voltage. A Solar BA-7 tester tests the batteries actually internal capacity, and read's it out in Cold Cranking Amps. My battery was rated 650 CCA and read out 423 CCA. it lasted several weeks from when Ford said it was fine. SOLAR BA7 100-1200 CCA Electronic Battery and System Tester https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_7vs6zbY665Z05 Addl note, I decided to go out and check my battery just to check. New one is rated 650 CCA, read out at 349 CCAs. ??? Cleaned the top and checked the electrolyte level. Checked again and now reads 457 CCA. (I do mostly short trips, and it sits sometimes for 2-3 days without being driven). Looks like I'll be buying a desulphating charger to bring it back to 650. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G14FK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Zfs6zbXSJTFQR Whats happening is, as the battery starts the car, it draws hundreds of amperes. This causes crystals to from on the plates. The alternator recharges the battety and in the process, re-disolves these crystals and the battery returns to its full state. If you drive short trips, the alternator doesn't have sufficient time to fully re-disolve these crystals and the plates lose their ability to deliver full rated current during the next start. Over time, the plates are Crystalled over and can no longer start the car. One fix is to make certain your Battety always receives a full charge (drive at least 20 minutes highway). Or buy a desulphating charger that will disolve the crystals. These ordinary battery checkers really only test voltage, checking good even though the capacity has dropped to a low level.

Ive read there are a couple of reasons a battety shorts internally. One is the plates develope crystals. When they grow large enough, they can bridge from one plate to another, shorting the cell. The other (and more common) is the lead plates breakdown over time, shedding small particles of lead to build up at the bottom of the battery. When it gets deep enought, this layer of lead sulphate reaches one the bottom of the plates, shorting them out. There are several videos on YouTube showing how to dump out the water-acid solution, flush out the battery and neutralize it with baking soda, then refill with acid or vinigar. Works! (But for how long)?

I seriously doubt that you car is eating your battery. A batterys lifespan is directly influenced by two factors, surrounding temperature and driving habits. Hot climate will evaporate the water from the electrolyte. By periodically checking the battery's water level and bringing it back to the full level, will greatly extend its lifespan. (How often does anyone check their battery's water level)? Stop and start driving and driving short trips (under 20 minutes) on a regular basis doesn't give the alternator enough time to recharge. Done on a regular basis with slowly but consistently will shorten its life expectancy. (Never really fully recharges by reversing the chemical reaction from starting). You may not be able to prevent short trips, but you can counter it's effects by using one of the new types of battery chargers, ones that use pulse charging. These new types of chargers can break down the crystals that form on the plates and return a battery to its original CCA rating. (A regular battery charger will recharge a battery, but it will only recharge to a reduced CCA rating). For example, assume a new battery is rated at 665 Cold-Cranking Amps. But due to short trips, the plates have sulphated and the battety can only deliver 554 CCAs. After two years the battery may only be able to deliver 480 CCAs. Sooner or later it's going to prematurely fail. Here's an example of the type of charger I'm talking about. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006G14FK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_lHp6zb8SZEEQK