enigma-2

Someplace else for advertisers to track you.

Congrats on your "new" 11. You are going to love it. I would recommend Weathertech floor mats as a first option. Also need to set up an account on ford owner and check to see if your Sync is up to date. This site will explain how to do this: https://owner.ford.com/how-tos/sync-technology/sync/software-updates/how-to-install-ford-sync-updates-in-your-vehicle.html If you have navigation, you may wish to consider upgrading the map software. Cost is $150. The site can be found here: http://ford.navigation.com/home/en_US/FordNA/USD?utm_medium=oemreferral&ProgramUUID=YIgKCghBOhcAAAFHefQZ9oZe&utm_campaign=Navteq-Partnership&utm_source=Ford-Owners

Yea, my dealer kept telling me that my battery was good. I bought a Solar 9 (thanks again Mac) and it showed low CCA's. Took it back in again with a coupon for a free check and again nothing wrong. Two or three weeks later it died at the grocery store. Like WWWPerfA_ZNOW (that's a mouthfull) said, it's the CCA's, not voltage.

Boy, if I had a nickel for every time I've heard that, .....

Yoy have to use both IA's. But it probably doesn't work for the 14 m/y.

Curious, what was wrong with the original cold air intake?

^Second that. Perhaps the computer just needed to be reset.

I also suspect a weak battery.

Setting a VOM on volts puts the meter in series with the load (measuring current places a shunt in parallel across the load). The "fuse panel" is actually a computerized control module. My 'guess' is you placed a bolted short through the smart junction box (fuse box) and damaged it. I don't know of any way to test it to determine its condition. The failure of the back lighting could be a LED failure, corrosion or a wiring failure. If I'm not mistaken, all the car's back lighting is controlled by one fuse, therefore if any of the back lighting is working, the fuse is good. The feed runs to a single connection point and branches from there. LEDS do wear out over time, voltage spikes, heat, time all play a factor in their life.

I doubt that. Ford does the engineering specification for the struts and bids it out to several vendors. I would imagine the vendor with the lowest price, which still meets their specifications, gets the contract. But I seriously doubt that they are "cheap" (in the usual sense). Each strut is designed for each specific vehicle. Aftermarket has to match a great number of makes, models and designs. Motorcraft is tuned for a specific feel, aftermarket are stiffer because of the diversity they are required to meet. ------ As an unrelated fact while looking up the struts for my MKX, Lincoln specs a different strut for 20" wheels than they do for 18"! That never occurred to me.

I know on later years there's a process using fobs, not certain about the 14 m/y. The process is simply enough. Firdt use your owner's manual to locate the "backup slot" in the car's center console, then insert the first key and push the engine start/stop button. Wait a few seconds, and push the button again. Remove the first key, insert the second key, and push the button a third time. The factory keypad code should flash on the car's information screen.

Must be one of those "back to the future" cars.

First look in your owner's manual for a card pocket. They previous owner may have put the plastic card which had the factory code on it. If not, there is a code permanently attached to the fuse box. Under the steering column to the left (near the brake) there is a panel. Take the panel off and with a flashlight you will see a white sticker on the fuse box. The white sticker will have a 5 digit code. That is your factory keyless entry code. Using the factory code, you can set your own personal code. Enter the factory code, hold down the 1/2 button for a few seconds and then enter your new 5-digit code that you can remember.

Forgive me for my ignorance, but doesn't the opening temperature govern the temperature the engine runs at? If it opens too early (such as deliberately using a lower temp unit), should it not maintain that temperature? I had one stick open and the car never reachef full operating temperature; even after driving a little over 100 miles. Under the impression that when it opens, the coolant begins to circulate through the radiator, cooling the coolant, closing the thermostat, causing the coolant temperature to rise again. The rated temperature of the thermostat is where the temperature of the coolant is held at. Idling and driving slowly would be the only time the coolant temperature would rise high enough to trigger on the fans. I thought that the ECU & PCM both use the temerature from the ECT, controlling both fuel delivery and auto transmission shifting. Still think it's a bad idea.

$50. http://www.ebay.com/itm/162137341038

I wonder if the engine computer would also be affected? (Thinking that the engine had not reached operating temperature, it would continue in the preprogrammed phase).

Batteries last 2-6 years. Heat and humidity will definitely shorten it's life. You might get a kick out of this video, guy restores a dead battery using Epsom Salts. Other videos show battery still in use 6 months later. In the hot and humid area of Australia.

Believe you have to press and hold a few seconds to get it to work.

Others have expirmented by opening the radio and cleaning the connections with good results. The easiest fix is to just by a used unit on ebay. Here's one for $380. http://www.ebay.com/itm/263055912668

FYI, you can also turn it off using the message center? You put the car in reverse and press the RESET button.

This site discusses the sources and root causes of premature tire wear on the rear inside edges. (Last paragraph under Toe Wear). http://www.aa1car.com/library/tire_wear.htm

It's use is clearly illegal in several states and a gotcha in all others. Most state laws are written with similar language that requires an operator to "keep the license plate legible at all times". ( All times ""can"" be interpreted to mean 'not just when you are on the highway'). A prosecutor could argue intent in its installation and charge you with failing to display your legal plate "at all times". The guy in the video would have some real explaining to do having two plate from two different states. Amazon has several to choose from if your intent on installing one.

Someone has too much time on his hands. Quick, give that man a margarita. . . . . Ah, that's better. Now we can contemplate something really important. Like which came first, the chicken or the egg. (Spoiler, it's the egg).

I have an 09 MKX and have played several DVD movies in mine. The screen goes blank when you shift to drive, but you can still hear the audio. Don't know about ye 07, could always drop one in and see.

Plugs are important in these engines because as they age, the gap grows larger. This results in them drawing more current. The extra current causes the coils (attached directly to the top of each plug) to overheat. If they get too hot they (the coils) can burnout and their somewhat expensive. According to my maintenance manual, plugs on my 3.5L should be changed around 90k. You wrote that you have twice that.