enigma-2

I know very little about this, but it's my understanding that the the BMAR is serviced as an assembly. If it were me, I'd drop by the parts department at your local dealer and see what he can come up with (after all you have to go OEM on this stuff). Baring that, it's a trip to the recycling ysrd.

Was in for service 3 weeks ago. They checked on my recall and said it won't be scheduled for anytime this year. Just too many cars affected and too little airbags. I doubt you should have any concerns about the fit or finish, these things are designed to be replaced easily.

Btw, as your having the local Ford dealer do the service, request a Ford Credit card, they can apply right at the service desk, and if you spend over $200, you will get a Debit card back in tbe mail for $25, plus a year to pay it off with no interest. !!! They also run specials from time to time on brakes. The current specials are $100 for just pads or $180 for pads and turn disks. The coupons can be found here: http://owner.ford.com/maintenance/service-coupons-and-offers.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwm7jKBRDE2_H_t8DVxzISJACwS9Wb658oE-bDzlRXMgJ3O5rZCgQ1dw2jAsbUpg98fmVjBhoCWeLw_wcB&searchid=160581195||&s_kwcid=AL!2519!3!101616081795!e!!!!ford%20coupons&ef_id=WAFcsAAAAbKsCuFU:20170624233100:s

Believe I would get the spark plugs replaced first. Then fluids, especially the coolant and transmission. I would regard this as essential, more so than the drivetrain. Then brakes for safety and lastly struts.

May want to keep a eye on the power steering fluid just in case. When these little stinkers start leaking they rarely stop on their own. Wonder if a can of Lucan power steering stop leak would do the trick for $10? (Worked for me on a car I once owned). Lucas 10008 Power Steering Stop Leak - 12 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPVNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YZutzbFKQGGC5

You can look them up on tirerack.Com. They seem to have a good selection. https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/brand.jsp?to_desktop=true&gclid=CjwKEAjw-LLKBRCdhqmwtYmX93kSJAAORDM6QLIuMx3DjZhWw8-ykg_FhZCfNFfoUyYW_dMUhNCSSRoCV8Xw_wcB&brand=KYB&s_kwcid=AL!3756!3!201371895782!b!!!!+kyb%20+struts&ef_id=WAFcsAAAAbKsCuFU:20170623170440:s

Just think. Soon will all be driving Lincoln's and Ford's made in China. Theeeeeennnnn let's see you replace your thermostat. HA. You'll be trying to replace part number ?????????㊙.

If there's any possibility of a water pump, check the color of the oil on your dipstick. It should look like clean oil. If it's milky colored, get it in asap.

Fantastic. Good going. You mechanic like me, T-15, no problem, putty knife, kitchen fork, pocket knife, T-20, T-10, pliers, ha!

Oh man, and I've already got 100k on my MKX. Now I'll lay awake again tonight wondering when my bearing are going to fail. Thank goodness for this group, else I'd never have known about the bearings failing at 200k. Just one thing after another.

Let us know what you find.

Followup Thought about this thread I had started last May and thought I'd chime back in by saying that it's still connected and working well. It appears that the sun heating the accordion gasket is what caused it to loosen ans closing it when disconnected caused it to deform. Re-engaging the gasket with the rod reinstalled, closing and allowing the sun to reheat, reformed it to the original shape (which it continues to hold).

If you are certain it's the windiw, my guess is the two clamps that secure the glass to the mechanism have loosened. To check this, you will need to remove the door trim and check the clamps for tightness. Here's a video from MacFordEdge on how he replaced a window glass. May help you to understand what's involved.

Not a recommendation but may provide a starting point. https://www.crutchfield.com/shopsearch/Automotive_5_Channel_amplifier.html

You can initiate the process from either the key FOB unlock or the keypad on the outside of the door. You can set two different seat & exterior mirror positions into memory, one for you and one for the wife Once you press the key FOB to unlock the door, the seat should NOT move until you put the key in the ignition. To prevent having to react to the seat moving, hold off putting the key in the ignition, until your ready. The movement of the seat (how far foward, etc.) and the exterior mirror are fully programmable. And you can also turn this feature off. The full procedure starts on page 135 of your owner's manual.

Oh. I thought that was the duty of the wife.

Uuuuuummmmmm, verrrrrrrreeeyyyyyy introsteningggg. Why would timing upset the PVC system?

Anything under the back seat?

Not a place to go cheap. Use only Motorcraft fans.

What's an owners manual?

When either of the front side windows are lowered slightly (1/4 to 1/2), do you notice any additional looseness of the glass, when wiggling the top of the glass? (As compared to the back side windows which do not exhibit this sound). If not, it would eliminate the attachment of the glass as being the source. With the door(s) open, is either of the lower guide channel bolts', loose? (Lower down, below the latch). If not, that would eliminate the back, lower window guide channel. Unlikely, but when you press in on the door inner cover panel, the upholstered cover. can you reproduce the sound? What is the condition of the window weatherstripping? Is the sound, speed sensitive, i.e. more so at higher speeds or at lower speeds? Have you tried wiggling the exterior mirrors? Also the exterior mirror glass. When the sound occurs, try partially pulling open the door handle (not fully enough to actualky open the door. Eliminating the handle linkage).

Before you do that, get a cheap VOM or 12 volt test light, and check to see if power is getting to the switches.

I Agree with Ironpeddler, shop around. Even if you find a dealer 100 miles away, use their quote to bargin the price down (most dealers will meet any legitimate quote). My 09 have >100k and no problems other a they found a seal leaking around 92k. When it ha around 80k I had the PTU flushed and changed (they charged me around $60 or $80, forget). Ford mechanic used a suction device to suck out the old gunk and them replace with new. (Believe that also replaced the fluid when they changed the seal.) Ford dealer told me they thought that the seal starts to leak, causing a loss of lubricant. This causes the remaining oil to get gummy and stop lubricating. All comes down to catching the seal as soon as it starts leaking.

Kind of a shot in dark, works sometimes, try disconnecting the battery's negative lead for 5-10 minutes. Allow the electronics to reset themselves.

{I think we should ask him the cut a tranny (ah, transmission) in half next. Always wanted to see how they work internally}.