enigma-2

There should be a card with the code on it in a plastic pocket in the back of your owner's manual. If it's missing, it's located on a sticker under the instrument cluster. The code is a 4 digit code and also has a barcode on the sticker.

Believe that export models sold in desert regions also have drain plugs along with specific drain intervals.

Can't identify the code. The service manual I have is for 09 &10 and all of the codes start with "B" (nothing starts with "A"). Perhaps someone else can chime in who has a service manual for the 08.

Why don't you try running the HVAC module in the diagnostic mode and see if it spits out any DCT's. Press the OFF button and DEFROST buttons simultaneously, then release and press the AUTO button within two seconds. You should see flashing bars and then the DTC codes will appear. On mine (just did thes to make certain that I had the right combo) I am seeing 88 88 as the codes (no codes displayed,my system is working perfectly. 88 88 is end code). Afterwards, press the DEFROST button to put the system back into opetation. It sounds to me as if the HVAC Control Module is at fault. (Did you check all fuses related to the HVAC system)?

FYI http://www.toyotanation.com/forum/104-camry-5th-6th-gen-2002-2006-2007-2011-2nd-gen-solara-2004-2008/405024-dangers-benefits-cheap-knockoff-replica-i-e-xxr-rota-etc-please-read.html#/topics/405024?page=1

On my 2016 MKX loaner the I noticed the fan & radio turn down when the phone rang and turned itself back up when I hung up.

You have tried so much already, I would guess that your problem is actually a non-functioning GPS module. I suggest checking fuse #26 (5a) to see if it's blown.

Here's the history of why they resended the code back in 2013. (And why it's still confusing as to whether it's needed or not). ($200 fine.) https://www.bhwlawfirm.com/license-plate-law-in-texas-front-license-plate/

Taxi cabs are known to rely on oil testing rather than rules-of-thumb, for determining when to change oil. (After all, when running a fleet of cars unnecessary maintenance can be the difference between profit and loss). Am oil tester isn't really all that expensive, such as the one in thw URL below. Couple of drops on the sensor and you know the real condition of your oil. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00HBAG9AC/ref=pd_aw_sim_263_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=X7DS89R60GV23HA1WMJ6&dpPl=1&dpID=61C02MWRsHL

Pfffff. Fighting Irish could kick to snot out of either team.

Ahhhhhh, that can be taken, ummm no, not going to go there.

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/22452-abs-tone-ring-repair-fault-code-c0226c0222/?fromsearch=1

Heh heh, was thinking the noise might be traced to a failing water pump dumping coolant into the oil along with defective timing chain guides.

Tree sap, as bad as it is on glass, is even worst on the paint of your car. It's important to get it off the paint as soon as possible. The following URL's may be helpful in understanding what's involved. https://www.yourmechanic.com/article/how-to-remove-sap-from-a-car http://thegarage.jalopnik.com/you-can-use-hand-sanitizer-to-remove-tree-sap-from-your-1778908321 Nail polish remover to remove sap on glass: http://lifehacker.com/5903634/get-sap-off-your-cars-windshield-with-nail-polish-remover .

"Right" as you are facing the engine or right when sitting the drivers seat? Just to rule it out, check your oil and see if it still looks good.

Sap is extremely difficult to remove once dryed. There are professional treatments that can be applied to windshields and will greatly reduce the difficulty in removing sap and road grime. (I had this done on a 1974 Chevett and was well worth to cost). Just Google "windshield coatings "

From the owners manual "Your vehicle is equipped with the Intelligent Oil-Life Monitor system, which displays a message in the information display at the proper oil change interval. This interval may be up to one year or 10000 miles (16000 kilometers)." Personally I follow the information in my OM (give or take) as I do a lot of short drives and question whether the oil ever gets hot for long enough periods to burn out the condensation and whatnot. [added after] Mine is every 5000 miles or every 6 months. So for you and your warranty, you can do either, monitor OR miles. Both are acceptable.

Wow, you rwally like to push the envelope lol. According to the study that posted here a little while ago, a clogged air filter won't significantly affect fuel economy, but it can hurt acceleration by 6% to 11%. Yours may not be clogged, but I would have pulled it and cleaned the bugs out at 30k. I change mine every year, whether it needs it or not. Cheap and easy to do.

It's still staying engaged when opening (all the way open) and closing. Looks like it's a fix. Here's hoping Pedeo2u!

You do have options. You can upgrade to Sync 3 for $1600 or to MyFordTouch WITH navigation for $800. https://www.4dtech.com/products/ford/edge/2013/myford-touch-8/

Throttle body?

Pull the fuse. Turns into a manual hatch.

Seen a Youtube video sometime back that showed an access cover under the rear seat that allows the pump/filter to be removed without removing the tank.

I would suspect either the canister purge solenoid as Akirby pointed out, or the throttle body. The oil low light is coming on because the enginge is stalling (and losing oil pressure). Probably not related the oil change, but you need to follow Ford's recommendations to maintain your warranty.

FWIW, the Motorcraft filter needs to be forced down in place. Very tight fit. Be suspect of any filter that fits easily.