enigma-2

I have a 2009 MKX and that's normal operation (make certain that the kids don't have their fingers in the opening when closing.) You w also notice that the interior shade also stops short when closing. Again, normal. Drove a 2016 Edge loaner a couple of days last week and the roof closed all the way with a single press. Don't know which years the changeover occured however.

I'm curious, are you hypothysizing or do you know for certain that the seal fails do to not changing the coolant? Actually it makes sense, inasmuch as my serice dept urged me to change my coolant to a different type, before it was do to be changed. Said that the original type did not protect again corrosion (think that's what they said) and the new stuff was now what was needed. This was 2-3 years ago and all I remember wad it was a different color. Perhaps that has something to do with this? Great video and clear explanation, Mac. Keep up the great work, I'm certain I speak for evertone here that these videos are very much appreciated. I know I learn alot by watching.

Better check the contract you signed before taking out of state. Most contracts I've signed on loaners prohibited taking out of stste. Even Enterprise Rental limits you to only one state over. Take it two states and daily rate goes through roof and insurance is voided. If dealer says no, be prepared to get a rental. (Make certain rental agency knows where car will be taken). As your using your insurance, may wish to check with your agent to see if any problems in taking loaner or rental on trip. Some policies have restrictions.

This video should help.

I just used the sticky cup and tucked my detector behind and just under the mirror. As long as it's not obvious not one will give it a second look. Used a MirrorTap connected into the back of the mirror for RD power. Turns on when car starts, off when car is off.

Perhaps a failing cylinder head temperature sensor is worth looking at. One of the effects is a longer crank time.

Vector I was aiming at (and failed to do so) was Turner U's comments "If you're chasing more power, this isn't a place to look. Any power gain would be circumstantial (ie, only under certain conditions), incredibly negligible, and at the risk of accelerated wear on your expensive engine internals (especially in street cars)." I just don't see how it's worth the cost and trouble. Esp if it may cause more wear and offer lower heat to the cabin in the winter. Me? In the dead of winter, I love heat. I'm not one of those who drive with their windows down not wearing nothing but blue body paint.

If I'm reading you correctly, that's normal operation. When opening, the glass will stop at about the 2/3's mark. This is the most open position before the roof gets noisy from wind noise. On closing, the glass (and shade) will stop with a few inches to go. They designed this in as a safety factor, no little fingers in the opening when closing. You must then manually hold the button to finish the close. Personally I prefer the 2016 design thst closes all the way without any stops, but it's not that big of a deal.

Wonder if lowering the tstat temp will affect any of the emissions testing (in those states where a cars needs to get tested each year)? Anyway, "how much" more power is this going to yield? 1/2 hp? Who's doing the reliable, non-biased testing? (I don't trust any of these aftermarket bs'ers. They are in the same vein as a used car salesman. "Yes sir, this car absolutely does not burn oil". (drip, drip, drip, drip, drip, drip). This site has an interesting take on the problem: http://www.reischeperformance.com/WhyLowTemp.html This is also a good discussion on low temp thermostats, from tuner university. http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/04/low-temp-thermostats-whats-the-advantage/

Bank one is the same side as spark plug one (drivers side). Sensor 2 is just aft the catalytic converter (follow the cat back and look for an electrical connector. This YouTube video may help with the how to. Always use Motorcraft O2 sensors when replacing.

Ive also read where a forced panic stop can also overheat the pads and cause unever friction transfer. According to the web page i referenced, bearings, wared hubs, stiff CV joints can all lead to pulsation. (I don't believe that the rotors actually warp, rather they have thicker and thinner spots due to uneven friction). FWIW, I still believe that improper torque, even in modern brakes, can lead to uneven heating of the rotor. Fix is simple enough, have the rotors turned or replaced. Just had new pads put on the front, told them to change the rotors as well. They went 100k.

It's an old post, but if it were me, I'd offer them $40 (half hour) to hook up the computer and turn it on. Never knew a service shop to turn down easy money.

Just guessing, normally I would say there's no connection between the radio volume control and the a/c, but after thinkung about it, I believe that there is actually. It's done throught the Sync module. I wonder if you were to upgrade to the latest Sync version (if you haven't already). Other than that, possibly upgraded software from Ford garage? Or, if not that, it's probably possessed with the ghost of Richard Nixon looking to clear his name. (Hello, hello, tap, tap, tap, can you hear me? I'm...not...a...crook...)

Don't know the answer to your question, but you may find this site has several lugs to choose from: https://tires.tirerack.com/search?asug=&view=list&w=Lug+nuts

$2k but for how many miles/years? The 2015 Edge is not without its problems, most are covered under the factory warranty. You could get a feel for what's most commonly reported here: http://m.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Edge/2015/ I took an extended warranty and it's paid for itself. It's amazing how much small simple problems can cost. I had a simple vacuum hose fail, but due to its location, they had to remove the manifold and other parts to reach it. One hose (covered under warranty) would have cost overy $300 to replace. Think of it in the same view as health or life insurance. It's two grand, but it's nice to know that your protected should anything serious go wrong.

According to the owners manual, the correct fuse is #29 for the Radio, Multifunction display screen, Electronic finish panel & SYNC module. Try pulling and leave out for 1/2 hour to allow the caps to fully drain.

Sorry, should have bee clearer, I had a 2016 MKX for a few days (as a loaner). Yes, my 09 has the standard FOB. Actually, I prefer the "old fashioned" key. I found the IA to be a bit bulky. Also, it refused to start the car once, even though it was in my pocket. Car said there was no IA present in the car. (?) One other area I had trouble with was locking the car. I ended up locking the cat by pressing the FOB each time, probably don't know how to do properly.

The standard is a Motorcraft synthetic blend. However they will do any oil you request. If they don't stock it, you can always purchase it locally and have them do the service. I've had them do Mobile One (don't anymore, blend is fine with me), but I've found, at least my local dealet, will do whatever I ask them to do. If I furnish the oil, it's just their labor rate. I prefer the "Works" as I get the tire rotation and a general look over. As I have an older MKX, prefer to find problems in their early stages.

Had a friend who plugged in two USB drives at the same time. They caught him and he got two years probation. But that's the kind of fool he was. He also did time for removing a tag on his mattress.

Something seems to be broadcasting. Whenever I walk in the garage with the key in my pocket, the welcome light came on, and I wasn't close to the car.

Is it me or is this another "Who Shot JR"? A can of beer, half a bag of pretzels and no Part 2. Part 2, Part 2, hurry, I can't stand the suspense. Heh. Man, I could clean my driveway in 4 seconds with a power sprayer like that. Wash the paint off your car or cut it in half. Just think of all the fun stuff you could do ..

Ah yes, translation. I've heard of tennis elbow but sandpaper elbow that's a new one.

FWIW, My drivers seat lumbar broke. The motor was working, but the gearbox stripped. Now a failed lumbar is no big deal, but I wanted it fixed. To repair the seat, they had to remove the seat from the car and disassemble it. The lumbar is removed as a complete assembly through ghe bottom of the seat upright. (My local garage had never replace one before and asked several other dealership's for advice. Seems no other dearship has ever been asked to repair a lumbar). Anyway, it went in on Friday and got it back on Wednesday. (Also had new rotors and pads on front, one tie rod end and a brake fluid flush ). The lumbar took a day and a half labor. My service contract covered it except for the deductible. Figure the labor at $90/hour x 10 hours (conservative) = $900 + the cost of the seat interior guts and you can see how an extended warranty comes in handy. Also, the inner tie rod end was also covered and came under the deductible. They had to drop an undercarriage to replace it (what they told.me, don't know what's involved).

FordTechMakuloco just released a new video walk through on the procedure for changing spark plugs on the Gen 2 engines. Covers evey detail, every connector, every bolt and hose. Very, very detailed. Offers several tips as well, such as the correct procedure to blow out the cylinder to remove dust and dirt from threads, etc. Also has a complete list of tools and products used. (Ford master mechanic).

Or how about these http://www.ebay.com/itm/272095097559 http://www.ebay.com/itm/142188970150 https://www.amazon.com/2011-2014-Pictured-Auto-Console-Protects/dp/B0060WOIQY https://www.partrequest.com/catalog/consoles-and-parts/ford/edge/2013 https://www.aliexpress.com/popular/ford-armrest-cover.html THis one looks nice, leather (water buffalo, dog, strange looking thingie out back) and not too expensive: https://m.aliexpress.com/s/item/32776006252.html?trace=wwwdetail2mobilesitedetail&productId=32776006252&productSubject=Free-Shipping-High-Quality-Microfiber-leather-Armrest-box-Cover-Protective-sleeve-Protective-film-For-Ford-Edge&spm=2114.40010308.4.99.gxy5OW#autostay