enigma-2

You may want to consider Redline SI-1 instead of Seafoam. (And I like Seafoam). Anyway, Redline SI-1 has the highest concentration of PEA (Polyether amine), more than Seafoam or Techron. Recommended usage is the same, one can per 3-5k milage. I can't state for certain but have read where Seafoam has damaged the O2 sensors after use. It's a strong solvent and most likely the way it was used, but something in keep in the back of the mind.

Figured it was time I finally get around to changing my blinker fluid. Noticed last April 1st that I was getting low on fluid, and checked today and my housing's were completely empty. I decided to go with the synthetic blinker fluid instead of the conventional fluid because of the additional additives that help seal the housing. The conventional fluid does not have the additives, and it costs only a little more in the long run. Was able to locate the fluid at Advance Auto but locating the the Elbow Grease turned out to be a real problem. I had to drive over to a NAPA dealer in an adjacent city as it was completely out stock locally. The elbow grease is used on the gasket of the turn signal bulb to make an adequate seal and keep the fluid from leaking out. If you have never performed this fluid change before, I included the following YouTube video as to how to do this. Now its important that you watch the video to the very end so you dont miss anything. Lot of good tips on changing your fluid. Remember, if you ignore this important maintenance task, you will completely loose your ability to make right hand turns in the Edge. And in some late model Edges, I have read reports that the the left turns were getting difficult as well. (Wonder what Ford changed from the gen 2 models?) Anyway, its very important to maintain this fluid.

This what your were thinking of? (Still think it's a CV joint. They can go bad early on as well as high milage). http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20419-clicking-on-front-right-wheel-anyone-else/?fromsearch=1

LOL, love it. :happy feet:

Check fuse 27 in the Smart Junction Box box. (feeds power to the PCM). Check fuse 33 in the Battery Junction Box.(feeds power to the coil packs). If both ok, pull the codes. (Suspect defective PCM, but more checking needed). Whatever the condition causing it, it should set s trouble code. (Code checkers are cheap and easy to use). BTW, in a no-start condition, if you can get it to start, shut it off and let it set. In the no-start condition, raw gas is feed to the catalytic converters. If there's raw gas in the cats when the engine starts, the temp will skyrocket and melt the material inside. Let the car sit to disipate thw extra gas. (There's another procedure where you let it run if you disconnect the air pump, but that's more of a hassle so just wait it out).

NASA had something similar happen on the first shuttle mission. They turned on the shuttle's electrical system and four of the five computers agreed with one another and the fifth one said the rest were full of shit. So they scrubbed the mission. Three days later NASA announced they found the problem. It was a glitch. They fixed it by turning off the shuttle and turning it back on. (Same reason you turn on your modem first, then your wireless router and finally the computer). My guess is, the mechanic may have touched the battery cable to the terminal a couple of times (or more) when making the connection and glitched the car's computers. He could have fixed it by removing the the cable from the terminal for a few seconds and then reconnecting it.

Need discussed before: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/2613-slow-turns-produce-loud-clicking-sounds/

Botswana independence day? (That's a little wierd, but hey ...).

Here's a video from MacFordEdge on hanging the front struts. Reinstall starts around 21:30.

I also would suspect the PTU, but keep wondering if you wouldn't hear it under other conditions as well (after all, it's connected 100% of the time). Couple of other thoughts, as it's coming from the right side, possibly the CV joint going bad. Transmisdion, did you check your transmission fluid level? Lastly, a heat shield slightly touching an exhaust component can make a rattle sounder like a grinding sound. Or possibly a btoken exhaust clamp. What did the dealer find?

Don't know about Fram, but the corrugations (ridges) should but pointing up. Correct when ridges run fore and aft parallel with the length of the vehicle. This is what I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A6NBO2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_XAxCzbZMDK487 Any possibility if something may have dropped into the fan blower while it was exposed?

Here's a webite where you can find any part through a network of salvage yards. http://www.automotix.net/

"Instant water"? Isn't that the stuff you mix with powered water and sunshine?

I agree, you probably have a leak. I would look closely at the radio antenna. You should be able to remove the stain with Woolite. Apply it with with the plastic brush on top of the can; scrub lightly and the stain should be removed.

It mat be helpful if you were to take the car to auto zone and see if your getting any trouble codes.

I pulled up the service manual for my 09 and it shows the fuse to be F21, a 7.5 amp. The Evap Canister vent solenoid is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module. Fuse F21 is locared in the Battery Junction Box (fuse box in the engine compartment). From the looks of it, I would guess that the fuse is good as it also powers the PCM as well. By the looks of it, that leaves only the selonoid at fault.

You are probably correct, I wasn't listening closely when he went over the reasons. What I do remember was the OEM, coolant had been found to not offer protection for certain metals used in the heater core and water pump. (Don't recall what they were, just "certain metals".) But changing the coolant is number one on the list as the problems encountered with a failed water pump (kills the engine et al) are to grear to ignore.

It's been reported that on some of the aftermarket fan centers, the connection pin outs are wrong in the fan center connector (the one the car's harness connects t. You could do a pin-by-pin trace and figure out which pins need to be swapped in tbe connector. (Believe it was only two wires that were in the wrong pin slots). (Possibly a cut and switch on the two wires. Easier then r&r with a new unit).

Yea, but you guys have muffadillo's down there. (Haven't you seen all the dead mufflers laying in the highway?)

5% tint is the legal limit in all states FWIW.

Whoa, I didn't know that you could divide the files into directories!!! You try a different SD card to eliminate the possibility of a bad card?

Yeaaaaa, I can just see it now, pulls into a crowded parking lot, steps out of the car like he owns the place, checks his reflection in the outside mirror: hair in place (check), dark glasses (check), gut sucked in (uh well, check). Look-ing-good. Now he slowly opens the door aaaallllllll the way open. Not fast, but with deliberate effort to show his new, one-of-a-kind, Chinese, hinge, bolt, covers. Ooooohhhh yaaaaaa. Looks not at the assembling crowd, but at the clouds, the stars, the infinity of human existence. Now, don't give them too much, close the door sloooooly, let them lean over to hold a look as long as they can. Click. The door is now closed, locked, and you strut confidently away, a small smile can be seen as you enter the local Targja to ponder to latest additions in the auto department.....

Which color? https://youtu.be/L8TwwV709v4 (33:10)

LOL

I cheat. I had the Ford garage do it during routine service. Full flush, buffer and refill. It's most important that if you are changing from Ford orange (or whatever came standard in your car) to the newer Gold, that you must completely clear out all of your old coolant (do not mix new with old). On my 09 MKX maintenance manual, it specifies to change the coolant at 105,000 mile intervals. Thr dealer recommended I change the coolant as soon as the TSB came out. Ok'ed - believe it wad around 86,000 miles. They said the sooner the better as it was found that the OEM coolant did not provide sufficient corrosion protection. They specifically mentioned the inside of the heater core and water pump.