enigma-2

MactFordEdge has an excellent YouTube video on how to change the rear shocks on a Ford Edge.

MactFordEdge has an excellent YouTube video on how to change the rear shocks on a Ford Edge.

In past years, Lincoln used to recommend a specific brand (perhaps there was a kickback, but it was official). Here's a link to their website : https://www.leatherworldtech.com/Leather-Master-Products-s/1831.htm Ivery also read where professional car detailers will use Woolite to clean leather without harm. Nevet use dish soap.

I seem to remember reading somewhere (may have been in this forum) that a defective pinch strip can cause open ok, but no response to close. Its under warranty, take it in to the dealer so he can pull codes and fix.

Better to run at 36 than 34. 30 is too low, not only more rolling resistance but tires prematurely wear more on the edges and not as much in the center. At 15% low (30 psi vs. 35 psi) they will also be running hotter than normal, reducing life. Overheating can lead to tread separation. Low tie presource also reduces carrying capacity. Also, don't forget to check your spare. It may be low just when you need it most. On my spare it reads to "inflate to 60 psi". However the owners manual states to inflate it to what the other 4 require. (?). The owners manual governs. One last thought. My door sticker shows the pressure for 18" tires, what came with the car from the factory. After taking delivery, the first owner opted to put on 20" tires. (Still within Lincoln requirements). Therefore I have to go to the owners manual for recommendated pressures. Make certain tat the door sticker is for your exact tires, else check the OM.

Does it sound like this?

Tires may have worn unevenly from the misalignment. Believe I would try a tire rotation to see if anything changes.

Wouldnt it be a hoot if the new grill mimicked the 2017 Lexus?

I've found in the past that old versions of Java left problems in the system. Best to remove all old versions as they tell us.

Update your Java to the most current.

Been reported here before on the 2013 models. Some were only 3 months old when the rust started to appear. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12725-rust-on-my-9-month-old-2013-edge-limited-door-panel/ Here's backup on it being iron filings from manufacturing, guy used IronX to neutralize. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/11589-my-edge-is-rusting/ Been seen on the Escapes as well: http://www.fordescape.org/forum/exterior-interior/8081-rust-rear-door-lip.html And on the 2013 Explorer: http://m.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Explorer/2013/body_paint/inside_door_edges_on_passenger_side_rusting.shtml

It seems to be keyed to you actual driving style. Heres Ford's description of how it determines when to trigger: http://owner.ford.com/how-toshttp://owner.ford.com/how-tos/vehicle-features/dashboard-instrument-cluster/intelligent-oil-life-monitor.html?fmccmp=myfordmag-site-MFPR0515OIL/vehicle-features/dashboard-instrument-cluster/intelligent-oil-life-monitor.html?fmccmp=myfordmag-site-MFPR0515OIL

I did see those, but there's the shipping delay from China and you are never really certain as to the quality of the parts. For electronic parts, I would recommend OEM.

It's actually for two pen holders, a travel tissue pack holder and business card or paper holder.

Although it doesn't exactly fit the symptoms, did you ever consider checking for a dirty throttle body or a dirty mass air flow sensor? Easy enough to check both and either can cause a drop in mpg.

Inasmuch as the sensor (are there not two of them?) and the latch has been replaced, I think I would try this as a troubleshooting procedure. Driving around slowly, I would have someone (hey, that's what wives are for) sit in the back cargo area and using her feet, press slowly on one side of the hatch, and then the other. It really sounds like an alignment problem, possibly one of the bumpers is off. If so, it might trigger the hatch's sensory and you will know which side is triggering the fault.

Covered before in this thread. http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/5750-engine-cover-removal/

Sounds like its getting a marginal signal. The map "can" update based on an occasional connection to the gps, and when it looses it's connection, it will attempt to calculate where you are based on the distance traveled & the steering wheel angle. When it picks up a GPS signal again, it will reset the nav display to the current location. You can pick up a GPS antenna unit for $30 on Ebay. http://www.ebay.com/itm/230888408152

Works with most, here's what they saI'd abut certain oils "Some specialty or extended use oils with high levels of additives, or with metals such as zinc or molybdenum, may give falsely negative results. Examples include the Amsoil 'Signature' series, Redline oils, Castrol TWS and specialty, non API rated Royal Purple oils." Not really all that common.

Interesting. When I was able to get the old one soft and back into the rail it just kind of oozed back in. No snap. Guess the rubber gets soft as it ages. (Don't we all). All that sun heat and UV over the years. Was it easy to replace?

GPS antenna is under the top of the instrument cover, under the front, center speaker ans just above the radio. It's more easily accessed by pulling the speaker cover (just prys out). If it were me, I believe I would pull the radio unit and check the GPS connection to see if it's in solid and no corrosion. It's the pink connector at the back of the ACU. Baring this, I would then consider changing the GPS unit. The shark fin at the back of the roof is your Sirus satellite antenna.

Shame you didn't get around to monitoring the temp in the PTU. That would have been interesting to see what's really going on. I have the factory tow option and she's pulled a boat and been towed to FL more than once. It would seem that if anything, towing would put a (heat) load on it more than anything else. I wonder.... if the units failing had aftermarket hitches and exceeded to towing limit recommendations? There has to be some variable that affects some PTU but not otheres. Cant believe it's the heat from the cat as Ford would have certainly considered this (and under all circumstances). If we assume that a single overtemp cab cause the cooking of the lubricant, I would expect to see additional damage as well. Assuming a standard cat is running between 1200° to 1600° and then either through a vacuum leak causing a lean condition or a plug misfiring causing a rich condition, the cat could running as high a 2000°F. At those temperatures, even for a few minutes, I would expect the cat to begin to fail, the aluminum oxide honeycomb could melt causing a partial or complete blockage, or the platinum / palladium coating on the honeycomb may start to melt and reduce its effect its ability to process thw exhaust gas. Either way, a malfunctioning catalytic converter should start throwing codes. Ford should have taken this possibilities into consideration during the design phase. Anyway, I figure that if it goes out I'll just replace it. It already has over 100k on it, so if I have to throw in $1800 for a new one, still worth it if the rest of the car is still cherry. (And it is). $1800 every 100k is not that big a deal considering what car payments would run for a new one. Glad your sister has a great car to drive. That was really nice of you to fix it and give it to her. Consider this a pat on the back.

Squeekest wheel ...

Yeaaa, that may not have been the best way to describes it. It's dried meat, rolled up in very thin slices. Real salty. Don't know what others use it for, but the cat likes it. Needed something to put the oil in so I pulled out the meat and used the jar.

No. Your suppose to "check" it. You teach your wife how to change it.