enigma-2

I know on later years there's a process using fobs, not certain about the 14 m/y. The process is simply enough. Firdt use your owner's manual to locate the "backup slot" in the car's center console, then insert the first key and push the engine start/stop button. Wait a few seconds, and push the button again. Remove the first key, insert the second key, and push the button a third time. The factory keypad code should flash on the car's information screen.

Must be one of those "back to the future" cars.

First look in your owner's manual for a card pocket. They previous owner may have put the plastic card which had the factory code on it. If not, there is a code permanently attached to the fuse box. Under the steering column to the left (near the brake) there is a panel. Take the panel off and with a flashlight you will see a white sticker on the fuse box. The white sticker will have a 5 digit code. That is your factory keyless entry code. Using the factory code, you can set your own personal code. Enter the factory code, hold down the 1/2 button for a few seconds and then enter your new 5-digit code that you can remember.

Forgive me for my ignorance, but doesn't the opening temperature govern the temperature the engine runs at? If it opens too early (such as deliberately using a lower temp unit), should it not maintain that temperature? I had one stick open and the car never reachef full operating temperature; even after driving a little over 100 miles. Under the impression that when it opens, the coolant begins to circulate through the radiator, cooling the coolant, closing the thermostat, causing the coolant temperature to rise again. The rated temperature of the thermostat is where the temperature of the coolant is held at. Idling and driving slowly would be the only time the coolant temperature would rise high enough to trigger on the fans. I thought that the ECU & PCM both use the temerature from the ECT, controlling both fuel delivery and auto transmission shifting. Still think it's a bad idea.

$50. http://www.ebay.com/itm/162137341038

I wonder if the engine computer would also be affected? (Thinking that the engine had not reached operating temperature, it would continue in the preprogrammed phase).

Batteries last 2-6 years. Heat and humidity will definitely shorten it's life. You might get a kick out of this video, guy restores a dead battery using Epsom Salts. Other videos show battery still in use 6 months later. In the hot and humid area of Australia.

Believe you have to press and hold a few seconds to get it to work.

Others have expirmented by opening the radio and cleaning the connections with good results. The easiest fix is to just by a used unit on ebay. Here's one for $380. http://www.ebay.com/itm/263055912668

FYI, you can also turn it off using the message center? You put the car in reverse and press the RESET button.

This site discusses the sources and root causes of premature tire wear on the rear inside edges. (Last paragraph under Toe Wear). http://www.aa1car.com/library/tire_wear.htm

It's use is clearly illegal in several states and a gotcha in all others. Most state laws are written with similar language that requires an operator to "keep the license plate legible at all times". ( All times ""can"" be interpreted to mean 'not just when you are on the highway'). A prosecutor could argue intent in its installation and charge you with failing to display your legal plate "at all times". The guy in the video would have some real explaining to do having two plate from two different states. Amazon has several to choose from if your intent on installing one.

Someone has too much time on his hands. Quick, give that man a margarita. . . . . Ah, that's better. Now we can contemplate something really important. Like which came first, the chicken or the egg. (Spoiler, it's the egg).

I have an 09 MKX and have played several DVD movies in mine. The screen goes blank when you shift to drive, but you can still hear the audio. Don't know about ye 07, could always drop one in and see.

Plugs are important in these engines because as they age, the gap grows larger. This results in them drawing more current. The extra current causes the coils (attached directly to the top of each plug) to overheat. If they get too hot they (the coils) can burnout and their somewhat expensive. According to my maintenance manual, plugs on my 3.5L should be changed around 90k. You wrote that you have twice that.

I know very little about this, but it's my understanding that the the BMAR is serviced as an assembly. If it were me, I'd drop by the parts department at your local dealer and see what he can come up with (after all you have to go OEM on this stuff). Baring that, it's a trip to the recycling ysrd.

Was in for service 3 weeks ago. They checked on my recall and said it won't be scheduled for anytime this year. Just too many cars affected and too little airbags. I doubt you should have any concerns about the fit or finish, these things are designed to be replaced easily.

Btw, as your having the local Ford dealer do the service, request a Ford Credit card, they can apply right at the service desk, and if you spend over $200, you will get a Debit card back in tbe mail for $25, plus a year to pay it off with no interest. !!! They also run specials from time to time on brakes. The current specials are $100 for just pads or $180 for pads and turn disks. The coupons can be found here: http://owner.ford.com/maintenance/service-coupons-and-offers.html?gclid=CjwKEAjwm7jKBRDE2_H_t8DVxzISJACwS9Wb658oE-bDzlRXMgJ3O5rZCgQ1dw2jAsbUpg98fmVjBhoCWeLw_wcB&searchid=160581195||&s_kwcid=AL!2519!3!101616081795!e!!!!ford%20coupons&ef_id=WAFcsAAAAbKsCuFU:20170624233100:s

Believe I would get the spark plugs replaced first. Then fluids, especially the coolant and transmission. I would regard this as essential, more so than the drivetrain. Then brakes for safety and lastly struts.

May want to keep a eye on the power steering fluid just in case. When these little stinkers start leaking they rarely stop on their own. Wonder if a can of Lucan power steering stop leak would do the trick for $10? (Worked for me on a car I once owned). Lucas 10008 Power Steering Stop Leak - 12 oz https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000ARPVNO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_YZutzbFKQGGC5

You can look them up on tirerack.Com. They seem to have a good selection. https://www.tirerack.com/suspension/brand.jsp?to_desktop=true&gclid=CjwKEAjw-LLKBRCdhqmwtYmX93kSJAAORDM6QLIuMx3DjZhWw8-ykg_FhZCfNFfoUyYW_dMUhNCSSRoCV8Xw_wcB&brand=KYB&s_kwcid=AL!3756!3!201371895782!b!!!!+kyb%20+struts&ef_id=WAFcsAAAAbKsCuFU:20170623170440:s

Just think. Soon will all be driving Lincoln's and Ford's made in China. Theeeeeennnnn let's see you replace your thermostat. HA. You'll be trying to replace part number ?????????㊙.

If there's any possibility of a water pump, check the color of the oil on your dipstick. It should look like clean oil. If it's milky colored, get it in asap.

Fantastic. Good going. You mechanic like me, T-15, no problem, putty knife, kitchen fork, pocket knife, T-20, T-10, pliers, ha!

Oh man, and I've already got 100k on my MKX. Now I'll lay awake again tonight wondering when my bearing are going to fail. Thank goodness for this group, else I'd never have known about the bearings failing at 200k. Just one thing after another.