enigma-2

Oh. I thought that was the duty of the wife.

Uuuuuummmmmm, verrrrrrrreeeyyyyyy introsteningggg. Why would timing upset the PVC system?

Anything under the back seat?

Not a place to go cheap. Use only Motorcraft fans.

What's an owners manual?

When either of the front side windows are lowered slightly (1/4 to 1/2), do you notice any additional looseness of the glass, when wiggling the top of the glass? (As compared to the back side windows which do not exhibit this sound). If not, it would eliminate the attachment of the glass as being the source. With the door(s) open, is either of the lower guide channel bolts', loose? (Lower down, below the latch). If not, that would eliminate the back, lower window guide channel. Unlikely, but when you press in on the door inner cover panel, the upholstered cover. can you reproduce the sound? What is the condition of the window weatherstripping? Is the sound, speed sensitive, i.e. more so at higher speeds or at lower speeds? Have you tried wiggling the exterior mirrors? Also the exterior mirror glass. When the sound occurs, try partially pulling open the door handle (not fully enough to actualky open the door. Eliminating the handle linkage).

Before you do that, get a cheap VOM or 12 volt test light, and check to see if power is getting to the switches.

I Agree with Ironpeddler, shop around. Even if you find a dealer 100 miles away, use their quote to bargin the price down (most dealers will meet any legitimate quote). My 09 have >100k and no problems other a they found a seal leaking around 92k. When it ha around 80k I had the PTU flushed and changed (they charged me around $60 or $80, forget). Ford mechanic used a suction device to suck out the old gunk and them replace with new. (Believe that also replaced the fluid when they changed the seal.) Ford dealer told me they thought that the seal starts to leak, causing a loss of lubricant. This causes the remaining oil to get gummy and stop lubricating. All comes down to catching the seal as soon as it starts leaking.

Kind of a shot in dark, works sometimes, try disconnecting the battery's negative lead for 5-10 minutes. Allow the electronics to reset themselves.

{I think we should ask him the cut a tranny (ah, transmission) in half next. Always wanted to see how they work internally}.

I have a 2009 MKX and that's normal operation (make certain that the kids don't have their fingers in the opening when closing.) You w also notice that the interior shade also stops short when closing. Again, normal. Drove a 2016 Edge loaner a couple of days last week and the roof closed all the way with a single press. Don't know which years the changeover occured however.

I'm curious, are you hypothysizing or do you know for certain that the seal fails do to not changing the coolant? Actually it makes sense, inasmuch as my serice dept urged me to change my coolant to a different type, before it was do to be changed. Said that the original type did not protect again corrosion (think that's what they said) and the new stuff was now what was needed. This was 2-3 years ago and all I remember wad it was a different color. Perhaps that has something to do with this? Great video and clear explanation, Mac. Keep up the great work, I'm certain I speak for evertone here that these videos are very much appreciated. I know I learn alot by watching.

Better check the contract you signed before taking out of state. Most contracts I've signed on loaners prohibited taking out of stste. Even Enterprise Rental limits you to only one state over. Take it two states and daily rate goes through roof and insurance is voided. If dealer says no, be prepared to get a rental. (Make certain rental agency knows where car will be taken). As your using your insurance, may wish to check with your agent to see if any problems in taking loaner or rental on trip. Some policies have restrictions.

This video should help.

I just used the sticky cup and tucked my detector behind and just under the mirror. As long as it's not obvious not one will give it a second look. Used a MirrorTap connected into the back of the mirror for RD power. Turns on when car starts, off when car is off.

Perhaps a failing cylinder head temperature sensor is worth looking at. One of the effects is a longer crank time.

Vector I was aiming at (and failed to do so) was Turner U's comments "If you're chasing more power, this isn't a place to look. Any power gain would be circumstantial (ie, only under certain conditions), incredibly negligible, and at the risk of accelerated wear on your expensive engine internals (especially in street cars)." I just don't see how it's worth the cost and trouble. Esp if it may cause more wear and offer lower heat to the cabin in the winter. Me? In the dead of winter, I love heat. I'm not one of those who drive with their windows down not wearing nothing but blue body paint.

If I'm reading you correctly, that's normal operation. When opening, the glass will stop at about the 2/3's mark. This is the most open position before the roof gets noisy from wind noise. On closing, the glass (and shade) will stop with a few inches to go. They designed this in as a safety factor, no little fingers in the opening when closing. You must then manually hold the button to finish the close. Personally I prefer the 2016 design thst closes all the way without any stops, but it's not that big of a deal.

Wonder if lowering the tstat temp will affect any of the emissions testing (in those states where a cars needs to get tested each year)? Anyway, "how much" more power is this going to yield? 1/2 hp? Who's doing the reliable, non-biased testing? (I don't trust any of these aftermarket bs'ers. They are in the same vein as a used car salesman. "Yes sir, this car absolutely does not burn oil". (drip, drip, drip, drip, drip, drip). This site has an interesting take on the problem: http://www.reischeperformance.com/WhyLowTemp.html This is also a good discussion on low temp thermostats, from tuner university. http://www.tuneruniversity.com/blog/2012/04/low-temp-thermostats-whats-the-advantage/

Bank one is the same side as spark plug one (drivers side). Sensor 2 is just aft the catalytic converter (follow the cat back and look for an electrical connector. This YouTube video may help with the how to. Always use Motorcraft O2 sensors when replacing.

Ive also read where a forced panic stop can also overheat the pads and cause unever friction transfer. According to the web page i referenced, bearings, wared hubs, stiff CV joints can all lead to pulsation. (I don't believe that the rotors actually warp, rather they have thicker and thinner spots due to uneven friction). FWIW, I still believe that improper torque, even in modern brakes, can lead to uneven heating of the rotor. Fix is simple enough, have the rotors turned or replaced. Just had new pads put on the front, told them to change the rotors as well. They went 100k.

It's an old post, but if it were me, I'd offer them $40 (half hour) to hook up the computer and turn it on. Never knew a service shop to turn down easy money.

Just guessing, normally I would say there's no connection between the radio volume control and the a/c, but after thinkung about it, I believe that there is actually. It's done throught the Sync module. I wonder if you were to upgrade to the latest Sync version (if you haven't already). Other than that, possibly upgraded software from Ford garage? Or, if not that, it's probably possessed with the ghost of Richard Nixon looking to clear his name. (Hello, hello, tap, tap, tap, can you hear me? I'm...not...a...crook...)

Don't know the answer to your question, but you may find this site has several lugs to choose from: https://tires.tirerack.com/search?asug=&view=list&w=Lug+nuts

$2k but for how many miles/years? The 2015 Edge is not without its problems, most are covered under the factory warranty. You could get a feel for what's most commonly reported here: http://m.carcomplaints.com/Ford/Edge/2015/ I took an extended warranty and it's paid for itself. It's amazing how much small simple problems can cost. I had a simple vacuum hose fail, but due to its location, they had to remove the manifold and other parts to reach it. One hose (covered under warranty) would have cost overy $300 to replace. Think of it in the same view as health or life insurance. It's two grand, but it's nice to know that your protected should anything serious go wrong.