enigma-2

Believe you may be right. They did say that it required a newer (different) coolant that Ford bound to protect better. (Picture Homer Simpson standing like deer in the headlights, nodding and saying "duhhh ok").

If I remember correctly, it was to neutralize acids in the system (wasn't paying too close attention).

I remember asking about the cost associated with changing the coolant at the dealer. He told me that one of the things they do after the drain is to run a neutralizer through the system. Said it was necessary. Then refill.

Years ago, on my 1998 Mercury Sable, had it in for an oil change and they replaced the "throttle rod" on recall. They had a woman working as the service rep and she could not explain what it did, why it went bad and anything about the recall (other than it needed to be replaced).

Bad load of gas, clogged filter?

I decided to put on a new set of tires, did the due diligence and picked the Bridgestone Dueler's (same as what I had on the car). Printed out the webpage and took it into local service dept. They had no problem matching price (for the tires, regular labor, which I had no problem with, at least it wasn't a high school dropout who had his mind on something else). Point is, price IS negotiable.

Makes me wonder if the fuel pump is getting weak. (Or some other weaknees in the fuel manifold).

The PTU isn't a regular maintenance item so they didn't check the fluid level. Usually they will look for leaks.

If you consider the costs of what maintenance actually costs, it ☆might☆ be worth considering. Here's the estimated costs for a 2017, normal driving, 4 cyl. engine. 10K $53-$94 20k $103-$166 30k $99-$170 40k $103-$166 50k $53-$94 60k $141-$231 70k $53-$94 80k $103-$166 90k $459-$650 100k $497-$732 110k $53-$94 120k $142-$231 130k $53-$94 140k $103-$166 150k $447-$507

I've remember reading in another forum that the squeek was traced to the ebrake cable (where it enters the guide). Someone else reported finding it with a plastic guide under the rear seat where the cable passes through. The fix in both cases was to use lithium grease at these points.

My daughter has a 2013 Escape. She likes it ok, no real problems, but wants to trade it on an Edge or (preferably) MKX. Great ride, congrats

Sad when you have to explain it. Grunt

Check the fuse as well.

Northern Indiana, Michigan is a second home. Been by Hartland many times traveling to Flint.

Read "lirpa loof" backwards and associate it with the first day of April. (No one)?

Try running an audio control module (radio) self test and record any codes it displays.

Use a pinch weld adaptor Small Universal Slotted Polyurethane Jack Pad Frame Protector by TMB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00W2NMO3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_c4f4ybEDXZVWJ

Which foreign cars are you referring to? Toyota that's made in Georgetown, Kentucky, or Lafayette, Indiana, or Blue Springs, Mississippi, or Princeton, Indiana, or San Antonio, Texas, or Georgetown, Kentucky? Or Honda that's made in East Liberty, Ohio, or Greensburg, Indiana, or Lincoln, Alabama, or Marysville, Ohio? Or how about the Ford Edge, which is NOT manufactured in the US?

I've not done this on an Edge, but have done it on several other cars. Yes, all you do is buy a homelink sun visor off Ebay, take down the old one and install the new one in its place. There ar ed some that look simular, so best to make certain that you get one from the same model and year car.

"lirpa loof"? April 1st. No one? sigh.

Read it again, more carefully ....

Everywhere if you have a good radar detector.

Should have waited until April 1st to post this.

Took my MKX out to an small abandoned airfield today. Had friends check my time over a 1/4 mile. Did 1/4 mile in 4.7 seconds. Not too bad I guess. Also been monitoring my gas milage over the last 4 fillups. Getting 53.4 mpg. (That's mostly city of course). Think the improved speed and fuel economy is probably due to the model 1 lirpa loof phased injesters I had installed by tihsllub engineering last month. Anyone else figured this out?

Just for clarification, this is what a ball compass looks like. Note that east is to your left, West to your right. When you turn left (turn west) the compass magnet remains pointing to the north, but turns in the opposite direction 1/4 turn. Therefore, as you turn, you turn counterclockwise while the compass turns clockwise.