enigma-2

Make sense, when Sync initializes, it checks for a phone establish a connection to 911. Apparently it wasn't set before to look for your phone.On mine, if I get in and my phone is off, the systems complains by stating "no phone connected". This will take place about three to five minutes after staring up. Bet it's looking to make a 911 connection.

Ah ha! I heard the "get er done" phrase. Always suspected you had it in ya! lol Sweet daughter, so cute at that age, such little monsters when they hit high school.

I'll have to pull the work orders, don't remember anymore, it was done in connection with other work. Seems I bulked at the price, believe it was under a hundred.

Good point, plugs still firing but no milage accumulating. I can see this extending not only to idling but to freeway driving and city traffic as well. (Not much if either around my neck of the woods, but certainly affects millions in California, Florida & metropolitan areas).

Isn't the code burned into permanent memory? And, aren't the codes in the BCM, not the SJB?

Check the wires where they run between the car frame and the door. The constant flex sometimes breaks a wire in this area. Broken ground would affect all the door components. (May need to pull back the rubber covering).

Seen where Sam's Club offers headlight restoration for $35.

I remember that when my dealer flushed by coolant they told me that the "had" to use a neutralizer on the system after the drain and before the fill. I think they also said they flushed it with clear water afterwards.

I bought mine directly from the dealer. Never had any problems using it.

Ford garage told me that the recommended changing 100k. As they age the gap gets larger and the draw more curent to fire across. This puts additional load on the coils and the extra heat will eventually cause the coils to fail.

Hi Mario. It's been discussed at length in this forum. Just do a search for "running boards" and you should get a hundred hits on past posts. Many had recommendations from members who had installed RB. Pix as well.

Just curious, as you have a 2013, isn't it still under warranty and if so, why would you take it to someone else?

"But wait, there's more. If you call in the next five minutes ...."

As Ford was trading at 14 a year ago and 11 today, if it were me, I'd be looking to cuts losses and make a trade.

For me, I had my 3.5 in for a regular oil change. Service dept told me they were recommending a coolant flush before its schedule as they needed to use a different coolant than what originally in the car. The new stuff had been developed specifically in reaction to some corrosion problem. As I hadn't read anything about pump failure, I didn't ask anything about what the problem was. Check with your local dealer as to what is currently recommended.

I've read in other conferences where it was traced to the SD card. Check the contacts to see if there's any oxidation on the contacts.

Curious. I thought that the car had to be moving before the tire pressure sending units began transmitting. There's a different procedure described on Ebay for the Ford TPMS. If you have the tool, wouldn't hurt to give it a try. http://www.ebay.com/gds/How-to-Train-Ford-Tire-Pressure-Monitior-Sensors-TPMS-/10000000177044847/g.html

I have over 100k on my 3.5 and no problems. Dealer told me that changing the coolant wad the key to long life. When the warning signs on coolant loss finally show up, I'll drop the $1700 and get it changed. (I'll put it on my Ford Credit card and pay it off over time without interest. Can't beat OPM!) On the other hand, installing a catch can on the 2.0l will catch most of the blowby and minimize the carbon buildup. Remember that there are millions on both enginges on the road and the problems that do show up are (usually) on older engines and are reparable (not unlike any other engine). My 09 is at the dealer every three months so they usually look for and catch problems before they become large. My daughter has the 2.0 in her Escape and loves it. (No catch can). So somewhere around 150,000-200,000 miles she will have to get the heads pulled and cleaned; if she keeps it that long. All part of ownership.

Ran across an excellent YouTube video from "Headlight Revolution". Discusses all of the prior and current variants of LED headlights (fogs as well) and analysis what's good, bad and just plain ugly. What works, why and how. Very informative video on LEDs. (Be advised it's a half hour long).

Did you check the integrity of the seal?

Anything plugged into the power ports? Anything plugged into the OBD port? Troubleshooting the system involved reading the OBD port to see if there any codes. Failing that, disconnect the negative battery terminal and connect a VOM in series to measure the leakage current. Should only be a few milliamps of power being used. If there is a power leakage, next step is to disconnect one fuse at a time until the drain stops. Once you have the circuit, it's only following it down one items at a time until you find the component.

I had Dueler's on my mkx and just replaced them with a new set. Excellent tires, had no real problems with them. No signs of cracking or abnormal aging on old set.

Rear different is also mentioned, don't know about the bearings.

When I had my local dealer change the flid the first time, I talked the the mechanic who they considered their expert on these units. He told me that he would recommend changing the fluid every 30k miles unless I was towing a trailer or running off road. Under those circumstances he recommended every 20k.

One other thing to remember with a unit this old. When you next change to PTU check the seal; make certain that it's not leaking. The dealer found my 09 MKX leaking at ~95k & had it repaired under warranty. They told me they thought that when the PTU seal leaks, it gets low on fluid and what's left gets too hot and turns gummy. At thid point it doesn't lubricate PTU properly and the unit fails.