enigma-2

I bought OEM fobs (prefer OEM quality) off of Ebay from an authorized Ford dealer. Others have reported here that they purchased aftermarket fobs and had no problems. You can do the programming yourself, easy to do

https://www.ford-trucks.com/articles/chevy-put-a-fake-oval-on-the-2019-silverado-test-mule/?utm_source=jan16&utm_medium=email&utm_campaign=content

Wasn't that true of all models and engines? To get 3.5k you need to have factory tow package. With an aftermarket hitch, the car's are rated at 2k.

I believe that the OEM illuminated sills actually replace the original sill (they do on my 09). As far as will it void the warranty, theres no easy or simple answer. The best answer is, "it could". Any problems encountered using an aftermarket electrical device could be a problem as it's difficult to predict how the part will interact with the car's electrical system (specifically should it connect to the CAN system). There could also be a problem depending on wich electrical circuit you connect into and how you make that connection. A poorly made connection could fail and short, resulting a failed circit, failed electronics (such as a head unit) or even fire. If you were to install OEM sills and follow the Ford guidelines exactly, it's unlikely you would ever have a warranty issue. Ford "can" void your warranty for installing any aftermarket device, as they clearly state in the warranty. Improperly splicing into the electrical wiring will also give cause to void the warranty. (If in their belief the alteration caused they warranty claim.) Wiring splices require specific tools, specific methods and knowledge of Ford requirements. ((Can you prove in a court of law, that what you did met all of Ford's requirements?)) Why should the warranty underwriter pay for your unauthorized modification?

The gasket is still properly attached to the frame of the bamr. It's the top groove that is separating from the guide rod attached to the bottom of the bamr. (This guide rod slides in and out of the top channel of the gasket). Been thinking, if the gasket has been disconnected for a long time, perhaps it's been squashed out-of-shape and taken this curvature due to the gear of the sun heating the bamr. The heating and cooling cycles may have "tempered" the rubber to hold the twisted shape. If so, perhaps if I were to sit the car in the sun with the roof closed and with the gasket properly fastened, it will "retake" the correct shape over time. Annnnnnd maybe not.

When I closed the roof, I did so slowly (stopping often). It pops off when there's around 3-4" from fully closed. Easy enough to work back on (except you need to be a contortionist), just doesn't stay on. Passenger side I'd fine.

Noticed last week when I arrived at a factory to conduct an inspection that the flexible rubber gasket that connects to a small, thin rail, on the underside of the sliding moon roof, was free and disconnected (only on the drivers side). It also had the appearance that it had been squashed in a twisted "S" curve, indicating that it had been disconnected for some time (getting squished crooked when the roof was closed. I easily reconnected the gasket to the rail and noticed that it became disconnected as the roof was nearly closed. I *think* that the unnatural curve in the gasket is putting too much stress on the "crimp" connection and it just pops off the rail. Currently I have it closed with the gasket connected, hoping that this will re-straighten the curve out of the rubber, but time will tell (may have been disconnected for years afaik.) Anyone have any other ideas as to what I can do to force the rubber gasket back into a straight alignment? Tried over bending the rubber by hand, thinking it would begin the retake the proper shape, but it continues to take the S shape. Thinking of using a hair dryer to heat the rubber, but the old doctors guide, "first do no harm".

2011 -> present LED light replacment kit http://www.precisionled.com/ford-edge-premium-led-interior-lights-kits-2011-present.html

All it takes is one failure ...... You also go this route with life insurance?

Anyone try popping the access cover and releasing the manual lock override?

Speaking only for my 09 MKX, the ride continues to hold up well over the years. Still smooth, solid, super quiet and relaxing. Also, really good, new tires make a difference.

What the dealer told me was, they used a different coolant during the flush, the oem did not provide sufficient protection and Ford had developed a better coolant. In any case, the corrosion inhibitors do wear out and changing the coolant will help to protect the heater core as well.

I agree, had the exact same thing last summer. Dealer replaced the entire fan unit under extended warranty. If you do it yourself or go to a local repair shop, go Motorcraft on this, do NOT use aftermarket. (Lot of horror stories and regret with aftermarket fans).

Ahhhhhhh, ummmm, weeeeelllll as you askedhttps://www.etsy.com/listing/271629394/flip-off-fuck-you-middle-finger

Are any of the sensor's dirty or have any kind of oil or grease coating covering them? Any misaligned or loose? Corrosion in any of the connectors? I dont know about OEM, but your can buy aftermarket (Dorman) for about $25 and they're easy enough to replace. http://www.partsgeek.com/gbproducts/DC/96723-05591582.html?utm_content=DN&utm_term=2011-2015+Ford+Edge+Parking+Distance+Sensor+Dorman+Rear+11-15+Ford+Parking+Distance+Sensor+2012+2014&utm_source=google&utm_medium=ff&utm_campaign=PartsGeek+Google+Base&gclid=CjwKEAjw9MrIBRCr2LPek5-h8U0SJAD3jfhtQ3dnYKg6zDBxvwCvalZ7Xi29TcNHJ0imy5tQ3AmdVBoCCM7w_wcB&ad=47584901292

Going from memory, there are four things that control the locks, the keypad on the exterior, the FOB, the lock button on the interior door panel and the auto-lock circuit when the car is on motion. Any of these could be shorting due to wire chafing or corrosion. That being said, as it happens while the car is parked, I would tend to not think any of these are at fault (except possibly the auto-lock). The lock sequence is controlled by the Smart Junction Box. (At least it was, it may be controlled by the Body Control Module in yours, being a later year). Whichever module it is, it may be developing a short (again corrosion, shorts or a failing IC). I believe that the various circuits should have a fault code associated with them, I would imagine that the Ford diagnostic tester may be able to narrow down the fault (if it is setting a code). Or may be it can see the problem when cycling though all of the four lock circuits. (With the tester connected, lock the doors with the FOB, interior door switch, etc.) Because of the complexity of several circuits involved, wiring, electronics and it's intermittent nature, I would recommend a dealer visit. It impinges on your safety and security and needs to be found.

Have you tried the tailgate reprogram procesure? The procedure is in the owners manual.

In the past I used Michelin's and found that they used soft rubber that wore quickly (20k) and then it when into a hard rubber. I was told by the local dealer that they did this to make the tires smooth and quiet when new. They were 60k rated tires and I replaced them in the 30k's due to the noise and hard ride. Never bought Michelin's since. There are also many cases of fast wear reported on Amazon's owner reviews. .

Most common causes are either the hood ajar sensor needs to be cleaned or one of the door ajar switches is failing, tripping the alarm. Is the interior light on at the same time (BCM thinking a door has been opened)?

Btw, did you check the fuses? Failure may have blown a fuse to protect the compressor.

Ironic nothing; they know! She's been sitting in the garage, thinking about this over the last few years, waiting, quietly biding her time, for "that" day, the day when she's finally paid off. And then boom! The other golden day is the day after the warranty runs out. My 09 has already told me through Sync that she's going to belch black goo all over the driveway and dump the coolant in the oil sump the day after the warranty runs out this August. (I wonder, can one extend the extended warranty?)

Checked my 09 maintenance manual and you are correct, plug change recommended at 90k intervals. Also noticed something else I didn't remember reading, change fluid in the transfer case at 60k (special conditions).

Yup. Class of 65. It was GRRREEEEEAT! (NAM kinda sucked though).

Thanks, wasn't aware they combined the BCM with the SJB strating in the 2011.

Monitoring for the PTU temperature and water pump integerity (integral leak detection). Tied into CAN for master control warning. NOTE: looks like the PTU temperature IS monitored on certain Edges. Be nice if it was standard of ALL PTU's.