enigma-2

Going from memory, there are four things that control the locks, the keypad on the exterior, the FOB, the lock button on the interior door panel and the auto-lock circuit when the car is on motion. Any of these could be shorting due to wire chafing or corrosion. That being said, as it happens while the car is parked, I would tend to not think any of these are at fault (except possibly the auto-lock). The lock sequence is controlled by the Smart Junction Box. (At least it was, it may be controlled by the Body Control Module in yours, being a later year). Whichever module it is, it may be developing a short (again corrosion, shorts or a failing IC). I believe that the various circuits should have a fault code associated with them, I would imagine that the Ford diagnostic tester may be able to narrow down the fault (if it is setting a code). Or may be it can see the problem when cycling though all of the four lock circuits. (With the tester connected, lock the doors with the FOB, interior door switch, etc.) Because of the complexity of several circuits involved, wiring, electronics and it's intermittent nature, I would recommend a dealer visit. It impinges on your safety and security and needs to be found.

Have you tried the tailgate reprogram procesure? The procedure is in the owners manual.

In the past I used Michelin's and found that they used soft rubber that wore quickly (20k) and then it when into a hard rubber. I was told by the local dealer that they did this to make the tires smooth and quiet when new. They were 60k rated tires and I replaced them in the 30k's due to the noise and hard ride. Never bought Michelin's since. There are also many cases of fast wear reported on Amazon's owner reviews. .

Most common causes are either the hood ajar sensor needs to be cleaned or one of the door ajar switches is failing, tripping the alarm. Is the interior light on at the same time (BCM thinking a door has been opened)?

Btw, did you check the fuses? Failure may have blown a fuse to protect the compressor.

Ironic nothing; they know! She's been sitting in the garage, thinking about this over the last few years, waiting, quietly biding her time, for "that" day, the day when she's finally paid off. And then boom! The other golden day is the day after the warranty runs out. My 09 has already told me through Sync that she's going to belch black goo all over the driveway and dump the coolant in the oil sump the day after the warranty runs out this August. (I wonder, can one extend the extended warranty?)

Checked my 09 maintenance manual and you are correct, plug change recommended at 90k intervals. Also noticed something else I didn't remember reading, change fluid in the transfer case at 60k (special conditions).

Yup. Class of 65. It was GRRREEEEEAT! (NAM kinda sucked though).

Thanks, wasn't aware they combined the BCM with the SJB strating in the 2011.

Monitoring for the PTU temperature and water pump integerity (integral leak detection). Tied into CAN for master control warning. NOTE: looks like the PTU temperature IS monitored on certain Edges. Be nice if it was standard of ALL PTU's.

Make sense, when Sync initializes, it checks for a phone establish a connection to 911. Apparently it wasn't set before to look for your phone.On mine, if I get in and my phone is off, the systems complains by stating "no phone connected". This will take place about three to five minutes after staring up. Bet it's looking to make a 911 connection.

Ah ha! I heard the "get er done" phrase. Always suspected you had it in ya! lol Sweet daughter, so cute at that age, such little monsters when they hit high school.

I'll have to pull the work orders, don't remember anymore, it was done in connection with other work. Seems I bulked at the price, believe it was under a hundred.

Good point, plugs still firing but no milage accumulating. I can see this extending not only to idling but to freeway driving and city traffic as well. (Not much if either around my neck of the woods, but certainly affects millions in California, Florida & metropolitan areas).

Isn't the code burned into permanent memory? And, aren't the codes in the BCM, not the SJB?

Check the wires where they run between the car frame and the door. The constant flex sometimes breaks a wire in this area. Broken ground would affect all the door components. (May need to pull back the rubber covering).

Seen where Sam's Club offers headlight restoration for $35.

I remember that when my dealer flushed by coolant they told me that the "had" to use a neutralizer on the system after the drain and before the fill. I think they also said they flushed it with clear water afterwards.

I bought mine directly from the dealer. Never had any problems using it.

Ford garage told me that the recommended changing 100k. As they age the gap gets larger and the draw more curent to fire across. This puts additional load on the coils and the extra heat will eventually cause the coils to fail.

Hi Mario. It's been discussed at length in this forum. Just do a search for "running boards" and you should get a hundred hits on past posts. Many had recommendations from members who had installed RB. Pix as well.

Just curious, as you have a 2013, isn't it still under warranty and if so, why would you take it to someone else?

"But wait, there's more. If you call in the next five minutes ...."

As Ford was trading at 14 a year ago and 11 today, if it were me, I'd be looking to cuts losses and make a trade.

For me, I had my 3.5 in for a regular oil change. Service dept told me they were recommending a coolant flush before its schedule as they needed to use a different coolant than what originally in the car. The new stuff had been developed specifically in reaction to some corrosion problem. As I hadn't read anything about pump failure, I didn't ask anything about what the problem was. Check with your local dealer as to what is currently recommended.