enigma-2

There are two different types use on Ford engines, the two pin are variable reluctance types and the three pin are Hall-effect types. But I have no idea what they would ohm out at. What codes are you getting?

One possible explanation for loss of coolant is a faulty water pump. Immediately check your oil to see if it has a "milky color" on the dipstick. If it does, the water pump seal is leaking coolant into the oil pan, diluting the oil and will destroy the engine. It's also possible that you may be able to smell coolant in the oil if the amount of coolant is excessive. (Don't drive your car under these conditions, have it towed to a service shop.) Problems with a Vista Roof are usually traced to a lack of lubricant. MactFordEdge has an excellent YouTube video of how to properly clean and lubricate the tracks.

the_natrix posted and excellent description of the Ford PTU problems in a forum topic entitled "PTU Leak / Failures", (14th from top) here: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/10914-ptu-leak-failures/ To answer your other question about the PTU having a drain, I -don't think- they added it on the 2017 for North American domestic vehicles. Personally I wouldn't switch away from the Lincoln approved lubricant. Changing the oil every 30k is a smart move but you still need to monitor for seal leaks at each oil change. Sooner of later all PTU seals are going to leak.

Sounds like your phone is outputting bluetooth audio in mono. Check your settings to see if there's a setting available to change to stereo.

Do you mean to cover the seats with new seat covers? Something like these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/272499890386 These are fake leather, but gives the feel for what can be done.

Do you mean to cover the seats with new seat covers? Something like these? http://www.ebay.com/itm/272499890386 These are fake leather, but gives the feel for what can be done.

Could br a wheel that'd bent or distorted. Most wheel imbalance problems will make themselves evident at speeds above 45 mph. A back-and-forth shimmy in the steering wheel means one or both front wheels are dynamically imbalanced, or a rim is bent. Your deaaler needs check radial and lateral runout of your tires anf wheels if their balancer has these capabilities. Could also be an unbalanced rotor. Could try reindexing the rotors by one or two lug positions. If still present, pull off the rotors and check for lateral runout. Sealed bearings must have about <0.002" runout or they can cause vibration. If the rims are not bent (tires good) the imbalance may be in the driveshaft; if your car is an AWD. Probably not on a FWD car as the driveshafts are turning at the same speed as the tires, around 800 rpm. Not fast enough to get this kind of vibration. Another possibility is a resonant vibration in the exhaust system. At certain speeds, the natural oscillations that occur in the exhaust may re-enforce each other which can cause the exhaust system to buzz or resonate. Creates noise and vibration to occur in the cabin. This usually only happens if the stock exhaust has been modified or damaged. A vibration that comes and goes with changing engine speed can be due to a broken motor mount.

Oh yaaaa, surerrr, you betcha

The most common cause is mold or mildew growing in the evap housing. As WWWPerfA noted, there are products made to kill the mold and make everything smell clean again. The most common is Kool-It. (Here's a link on Amazon). Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_42pUybHTMHTDC It's a really easy job, you crawl under the car, locate the ac drain and route the Kool-It can's supply hose up into this drain. You Then spray the entire can into the drain and your done. It will expand as foam filling the entire inside of the evap housing, then turn into a liquid and drain out. Here's a Youtube video on how to do this.

Here's an excellent, fairly new (new to me at least) video on the Ford/Lincoln PTU. He tears it open and describes the inner workings, points of leakage and methods of failure. He recommends replacing fluid every 30,000 miles for the Edge/MKX and more often heavier cars, such as Explorers and trucks.

Did you ever get them changed? The noise and vibration you described can be coming from fairly new tires if they were soft rubber when new. They tend to be super quiet when new because of the soft rubber, but can cup causing a weak vibration and road rumble. Here's a fairly new, good video from FordTechMakuloco on how to quick check your tires to see if they are cupped, causing noise and vibration. https://youtu.be/S9fckNDy2UI

Love to see pictures of the shade. (Hint, hint). In addition to Mac's great video on the AC clean, you might consider shooting some Kool-it into the evap drain. It foams, getting into each nook and cranny and will kill any bacteria or mold present. There are several good vids on YouTube showing how to use it. (Short version, hook it to the rubber drain, open the valve and squirt to entire can into the evap. Disconnect and it will turn to liquid and drain out). Evaporator clean. Lubegard 96030 Kool-It Evaporator and Heater Foam Cleaner https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_PamUybPP4NAQM

You could consider replacing it. Here's a link where someone divided his wasn't bright enough and changed to a brighter LED display. https://www.google.com/amp/www.fordescape.org/forum/diy-garage/8386-led-cargo-light.html%3famp=1 Here's a link to repair a cargo lamp http://www.paulstravelpictures.com/2013-2016-Ford-Escape-Cargo-Area-Light-Bulb-Replacement-Guide/

Q. It's a well know fact that we loose mpg using Ethanol, does our cars loose hp as well?

I think it's normal to lose a quart between regular oil changes. I usually check once a month and top off when needed. (Keep a few quarts of Mobile One around for this). As your working beyond normal intervals, I wouldn't get too excited. Amazing how the oil is holding up. Have you considered a filter change? That could he the weak link.

A good starting place is www.tirerack.Com After entering your cars information, sort by review ratings and then read to reviews. Once you have narrowed the search, also check for ratings on www.Amazon.com Many times the ratings are glowing based on only a hundred or few hundred miles. But I would recommend placing emphasis on those ratings after they have many thousand miles of use. I just bought a new set of tires, considered Michelin's which had the highest rating on tirerack.Com (with most ratings based on very limited miles), in checking www.Amazon.com the ratings were not as high after 20k miles or so. Many reporting they had to replace even below that figure. Ended up going with the Bridgestone's instead. But using the ratings on both sites should give you a good viewpoint for you particular for car, year and drive condition (FWD & AWD).

This is very interesting. What did you look for in an upholstery shop when you made your decision?

Taxi companies base their oil change interval on actual testing. Believe they base changes on acidity and failure of certain additive breakdowns. Even though the oil is still lubricating properly, it would be advantageous to pulling some off the dipstick and watch the acidity. Also filter, even the best, have limits. When near at capacity, they may go into bypass and allow dirt to recirculate through the engine. As you experiment, it might be a good idea to monitor the level of contamination in the oil. Theres a good website with forums that deals with oil and these subjects. If you have never visited, it's www.bobistheoilguy.comThe forum on automobile oils have been discussed this adinfum.

Beg to differ. Have 20" with OEM chrome rims, tires are month old. (Bridgestone's) Swiped a curb at 5 mph and blew a 2" hole in the sidewall. Getting a new tire on Tuesday. 21's gave even less sidewall. The less the sidewall, the more the chance of sidewall failure when you hit a road hazard. (Look better though).

I hit a curb pulling into a drug store yesterday (maybe 5 mph) and blew out the sidewall. (Tires are a month old, Bridgestone's). Hole about the size of a silver dollar. Called Lincoln and the immediately dispatched a tow truck to put on the spare. Anyway, currently driving on the spare and it's really noisey. Rumbling, can't stand it. One tire and it destroyed my piece and quite. Just saying ...

Located a set of REAR mud flaps are are advertised as fitting your 2013 Sport. They appear to be screw-on however. (Will fit other years if I'm not mistaken). http://www.autopartswarehouse.com/shop_years/ford-edge-mud-flaps-2013.html

The rears fit the SE, SEL and Limited. From what has been discussed here on the forum, the Sport's body shape makes it too difficult to fit a mud flap. I can't speak to this from personal experience, but others with the Sport have confirmed.

The owners manual for the 15+ state that if you are running the wipers and shift into reverse, the rear wipers will automatically turn on.

Would some to like this work? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B019OSX8UC/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1487992295&sr=8-2&refinements=p_89%3AAUKEY&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=car+charger

It is my understanding that the "engine off load shed" feature was not connected to the auxiliary power points (that is, they are always on). They are powered directly through the Battery Junction Box and not through the Smart Junction Box. http://owner.ford.com/how-tos/vehicle-features/center-console/powerpoints.html Unlike the 120 volt Power point the shuts off when the battery reaches 11 volts, these will completely drain the battery if allowed.