enigma-2

My 09 has 100k+. I was concerned about rhis and asked my service rep about the WP leaks. He told me it was related to not getting the coolant changed. Apparently Ford (Lincoln) has changed to a different coolant just to prevent failures. Has to do with old fluid causing corrosion. Service was adamant about getting me to change coolant to new type.

Couple ways to tell: SEL has the backup alarm when you backup and there's an object behind you. SE doesn't.SE exterior mirror caps are black, SEL mirror caps are color matched.

It appears that they are installing the siren speaker insidea the grill (as in this youtube video) Here's a fully decked out police cruiser This company specializes in fire and police conversion. http://911rapidresponse.com/projects.html In every installion I've seen on the Internet, all of the siren speakers were installed behind the grill. This involves removing the frontend for mounting. One other consideration would be to use a top-mount light & siren bar, if your looking for a simple diy installion.

This is a YouTube video where "fix it angel" shows how to remove the door latch and replace the switch attached to the latch. Ag the end of the video, he tears open the switch and it clearly shows the corrrosion located inside the switch.

Going for the Hummer look, eh?

Have you been able to get this fixed yet?

Have you maintained the service? Have you changed the plugs at 100k?

FordTechMakuloco has a good video on how to install on a Ford turbocharged engine. As I understand it, the sensor's detect the knock and adjust the timing (and in modern engines, other systems) to run the engine as lean as possible. The computer needs a knock to set determine where the mixture is set, but maintains it so that it doesn't cause engine damage.

You could also consider installing a better Halagen bulb. Phillips VisionPlus or Osram NightBreaker's are an inexpensive improvement.

Be very careful about which wheels you stick on your car. There is cheap junk coming in from China that may not hold up on the road (potholes and simular hazards in particular). https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/tech/techpage.jsp?techid=90

From what's been discussed here, installing a catch can on these engines would seem to be beneficial. It doesn't appear to be a correlation between how hard you drive it and the carbon buildup. As the valves are not being washed by the gas spray there will be buildup. Driving harder will only cause more blowby, which in turn allows more oil and blowby to be drawn into the intake causing more buildup on the back of the valves and valve seats. As for using 91 octane, it would seem realistic to believe that Ford Engineering thoroughly tested this engine under all circumstances and found it acceptable. By reducing the knock, the computer may attempt to lean the mixture in an attempt to reach a point where the knock can be sensed. Years ago, Ford used to produce a magazine entitled Ford Times. I remember reading an article one month where they discussed the reasons you should NOT use higher octane gas. They (Ford Engineering) wants the engine to knock so the computer can measure it and compensate properly. Otherwise it will go lean attempting to compensate and the engine runs hot.

https://www.tirerack.com/wheels/results.jsp?autoMake=Ford&autoModel=Edge+SE&autoYear=2012&autoModClar=AWD&package=false If kona blue is not selected, tap on the color wheel near the picture of the edge and select it. Then you can try out all of the different wheels and see what each would look like. (Note I tapped the SE instead of the SEL, and AWD instead of FWD, but I don't think it will make any difference.) PS forgot to mention, if you click on the arrows next to the 5 wheels shown, the next (or previous) five wheels will be displayed. Then just click on whatever wheel and it will be placed on the car.

The NHTSA opened an investigation on the Edge door ajar issue in October. The dealer cost (I believe) is around $400. However it's an easy fix, abet time consuming and there are seveal videos on YouTube on how to remove the door panel and replace the switch attached to the latch. Looks like a two hour job.

The rule I'm familiar with is a drop of 20% when you drive it off the lot. 50% seems high.

Take it over to a reputable body shop and see what they suggest.

Oh ratfink. Now everyone will know.

Are there any codes stored?

I can't imagine 32's on 17" wheels. Love to see a picture when you get them installed. Must have one hell of a sidewall.

I was hit from behind in January, knocked one sensor through the bumper cover, still attached electrically and faced the inside of the bumper; beeping constantly when shifted into reverse. These senders are very rugged and I would bet they are not damaged. As you are not getting any signal, my 'guess' is the harness was damaged.

This may offer an understanding of the different types. http://www.ebay.com/gds/Truth-about-CANBUS-Error-Free-AutoLED-/10000000205123542/g.html http://store.ijdmtoy.com/Canbus-Error-Free-LED-Bulbs-FAQ-a/490.htm

As it's been a year and you still haven't found the source, can you id the color of the fluid? This will tell you if it's automatic transmission fluid or power steering fluid (or something else). Here's a guide: https://blog.allstate.com/find-the-fluid-identifying-your-cars-drips/

My guess after reading this is they seen something in the tread that indicates an alignment problem. Like cupping or excessive wear in one zone of the tread. If I were you, I would ask why they are recommending an alignment. If it's been more than a couple of years and the tires are worth saving, may not be a bad idea to consider this. (After all, all it takes is one chuckhole to throw the alignment off).

Another way to try if you have MyFord Touch 1.Access your Settings Menu by clicking the cogs located next to the Home Button. 2.Select Settings from the list on the right side of the screen. 3.Select System at the top of the list. 4.Scroll down until you see Master Reset, then press it.

.... and, as complex and interactive the electrical and mechanical systems are nowadays, often times its better to just bite the bullet and go with the pro. I remember rebuilding my 56 Ford Vicky automatic transmission when I was in high school. (Had to, my dad refused to pay a mechanic to do it). But the modern ones are a real trip compared to those. Now days you have to go to school for every little system else your just guessing. (Course at my age, auto mechanics is not worth the trouble ....).

Phone should work, only problems (if there are any) will probably be in the messaging area. But the phone manufacturers generally catch up with an update in fairly short order.