enigma-2

Its almost always a broken wire at the door hinge area (wires flexing and pinching.) Heres one fix ...

Not certain as to what year Edge you have (doesn't show up in the mobile platform), these are designed to fit the 2020 (will first other years as well.) Under $5, but only has a 4 (out of 5) star rating. I'd read the 1 and 2 star comments to what what the problems are. (There are stickers for other knobs as well, just have to do a search on the Amazon to see.) 👉 https://a.co/d/d3mQJq0 .

As you have eliminated the possibility of low voltage, the bane of electronic modules, i would lean towards the FCIM failing when hot (a broken solder joint can open when hit and cause these problems. These types of intermittent failures are hard to track down.) Only other cause I can think of is one of the harness connectors has green crusties (corrosion.) My 09 does this every once in a while (not always heat related.) I'm usually able to recover the radio by playing with the steering wheel controls, or, by shutting off the car, open and close the doors, lock the doors with the remote, then unlock the doors, open the drivers door, and restarting the car. So far, thao procedure has fixed the hiccup. .

What CCA is your battery rated at; was it 650 CCA?

Believe he did. Only came up with P0113 > Intake air temp. #1 circuit high P25B0 > Fuel level sensor "A" stuck or has a malfunction. My first reaction was weak battery or defective BCM. But he didn't find any codes. Reason I suspected possible unplugged cluster is that it happened after getting car back from mechanic. ....Not that a mechanic would ever deliberately do anything underhanded. (grunt) .

Stupid question, did you ever check to see if the instrument cluster is plugged in?

Could be any number of reasons. Its only critical if its flashing.

When my PTU needing replacing, there was a muted roar type sound coming directly under the front seats. A roaring noise from the rear end is usually worn wheel bearings or differential ring and pinion gear issues in the RDU. Your mechanic found it was the RDU and refilled the unit. But the damage is done. You can't fix worn gears by just replacing the fluid. You will need to have your mechanic disassemble the RDU and visually inspect the RDU.

Is the part coming from Canada?

Whoa, ho, ho. After reading Omar302's post, I did some more digging. Seems Levittown was wrong. (But not me, of course .... :-) Here's what I'm finding now; "ML3Z-19A361-A is the part number for the Ford Perimeter Plus Vehicle Security System, a shock and impact sensor module. After a simple plug-and-play installation, the module automatically activates with an ignition cycle. Dealer programming is only needed if you want to add the optional remote start feature." So ill just sit here on the patio, feed the squirrels and hummers, drink my martunies and think happy thoughts. Let us know if you decide to go ahead and put one in.

Consider obtaining a copy of TSB 13-6-18. This specifically deals with a current draw due to the remote system keeping the electronics awake. Sometimes it just requires a software reload/update. As you have isolated the problem to the RF module, there's three possibilities. The module, wiring becoming grounded and a faulty RF hub. Most likely cause is the module has failed. (Shorted wiring would cause the battery to drain much faster & network issues would probably affect several other devices.) I've read in another forum where it was traced to water entry getting into the module. Caused it to stay on.

According to Levittown Ford, adding the factory perimeter alarm to a 2024 Edge ST with the part number ML3Z-19A361-A is NOT a simple plug-and-play installation and DOES requires dealer programming.

I'm still driving my 2009 MKX, and love the body roll. Course that doesn't happen as much after I had new shocks put on. Anyway, "rolling, rolling, rolling, though the streams are swollen Keep them tires rollin' Rawtread" (Old tv series opening theme song... Very old.) Anyway, there's "no oil change required" function on the first generation, and there's no "oil life xx%". Just change a 5k intervals. "Don't worry, be happy."

Seen this as an ad here on the cell version on the site, so I clicked on it thinking I was going to see her wearing two band aids and a cork. Disappointed, it was click bate. Oh well, back to watching YouTube videos on investing and the like. (Exciting, makes me get a rush all over.)

Ok, this is off topic, but should be ok in the lounge. Private Equity has successfully lobbyied congress to allow Private Equity to sell shares in 401k's. May take 5 years or so to show up, but if it dies, STAY AWAY. Far away. Stay in a good S&P 500 mutual fund like Vanguard, with low costs, and you'll be much better off. Anyway, here's a 15 minute video explaining why this is such a horror show for 401k's.

Try spraying the machismo at the floor with WD40. Gums up and causes the cam to stick. I got tired of my wife ... requesting .. me to fix it properly and replaced it with a new a$$embly. (And with a 2009 MKX, which are now obsolete, I had to scour every dealer in the country to find one; in my color.)

Ever figure this out? (Low freon will keep the system from engaging.)

You ever figure this out? I'd have thought the alternative putting out 15v would have made it a battery problem (that and the multiple failures.)

I look at the guides and check for a foreign body blocking (or perhaps pinching) the travel of the screen. .

Yea, that really sounds like a stuck or malfunctioning blend door actuator. When you turn the temperature past a specific point, like 26 degrees, you are forcing the door to open fully, allowing maximum heat to enter the cabin.

I'd still have the battery tested. I say this as you're getting multiple malfunctions at the same time (low voltage can cause unrelated errors.) By the looks of it, they used a voltage test. Voltage tests were ok years ago when a car didn't rely the heavy use of electronics. Low voltage, no problem. Butbin a computer, low voltage.. and the microprocessor is making up zeros for ones. You need to test the CCA rating of a modern battery. Battery's can test full voltage but still not be able to deliver enough current when under stress Here's what I use to test my batteries (I even use it for my Simplicity garden tractor): https://a.co/d/5DF64x3 It's a little more expensive, but it also tests the charging system as well.

Its been my understanding that you usually only get around half the coolant because the other half in still in the heater core and engine block. I've read where some remove the lower radiator hose and get a little more. Vacuum drains work in some cases, never heard whether it works on the 3.5. Usual way is to refill with distilled water, drive, drain and refill again. But I've always heard that changing half is usually sufficient. Personally, I wouldn't worry about it. Ford doesn't.

I checked out the part number you listed on Amazon and the Chineese one I checked had a 1-star rating. I would never consider a Chinese part. Pay the extra and get guaranteed quality.

The procedure I've used since a teen back in the 60's: park car on level ground, start the engine and let it run (until fans come.) Shift into each gear. Hold for a few seconds between shifts. Return to park. Shut the engine off. Remove the transmission dipstick, wipe, reinsert, remove again and check level. On some current Ford models, you'll need to partly disassemble the engine to reach the dipstick. (OK, that's an exaggeration, but it just kills me how stupid some engineers are. On my 3.5 its easily accessible and prominent. It screams "here I am, pull my finger". On others, "nothing to see here, move along".)

The starter relay is a common problem in hot no-start situations. It may click but fail to send power to the starter. Try swapping it with a known good relay.