enigma-2

I've been putting off adding a rear backup camera on my 2009 Lincoln MKX, for some time. The only good reason is, it looks to be a lot of work and I'm lazy. And don't want to pay $150 for a plug-in programmer. Camera is easy enough, because of the rear end configuration, I'll be mounting the camera just above the license plate. stuffing wires from the rear end to the back of the head unit is only a couple of hours, have identified the contact pins on the ACU that takes the camera input and have a harness that plugs into the ACU. But the real problem is the software code to activate the camera. Talked to a certified tech at my local Ford garage to see if I could pay them to hook up their computer and switch on the camera and he said absolutely not. Ford doesn't allow it. Been playing with Foreskin and I think that it's located in the APIM module (as built) at 7D0-01-01-x*xx-xxxx-xxxx. where *=3 is for camera on, no PDC *=9 is for camera off with PDC *=b is for camera on with PDC. (I would be using "b" ) I guess I'm looking conformation on the modification of the APIM AND does the BCM need to be modified as well. Has anyone done this mod? Did you have any problems running the camera wiring?

Actually that sounds like a leak around the antenna. Easy way to check. Pull the console down, (if I remember correctly you pull the back first) unplug the lights & switches and you'll see the bottom of the antenna. Have someone pour or hose water around the antenna base and watch from inside. May just need to tighten the screws that hold the antenna base to the car.

I hear ya brother. I'm retired and have the Ford garage do all my work. For both my old cars (2009 MKX & a 2004 Chrysler Sebring convertible). Everything. I'm too old, too lazy and I can afford it. Besides my 09 is still under warranty for the next 3 years - with $0 deductible, so ....... in she goes for every little thing. (The power lumbar just went out on the passenger seat. So she goes in week after next. Thinking $400-$500 as they have to pull the seat out, then pull out the entire mechanism inside the seat back and replace it with a new mechanism). Old cars that are well cared for are great. Just think of making $400/month payments vs. $500 year for upkeep and repair. Of course there are years where you spend more, but still .... BTW, I wouldnt trust parts off Ebay. Even the Motorcraft parts are known to be fakes. (Amazon too). Unless it's a cost factor, if I were you, I'd buy off Rock Auto. Costs a little more, but you can rest assured your getting quality.

Crutchfield has an excellent selection. You may need to pay extra for the steering wheel controls interface. https://www.crutchfield.com/S-ObDOdoWVKcr/m_266150/Car-Stereos.html?

Probably the antenna leaking. Easy enough to check. Start by removing the overhead console. Using your fingers, pry the front (side facing the cabin interior) down. This will release the console and it will pop out. Disconnect the harness and set aside. The base of the antenna is now exposed. Have someone spray water on the antenna and watch from inside the vehicle. If its leaking, try tightening the mounting screws from inside. Done. Credit: 1 beer and a wife's loving touch for being a hero.

There are no drain lines for the moonroof. It uses channels external to the window that run along side. (The old drain tubes would clog, causing water backup and overflow into the cabin). If you getting water in the cabin in a 2010, on the drivers side, check the a/c drain. It terminates on the underside, on the drivers side, on the bottom side ob the xmission hump. Can usually blow it open with air (don't crank to 100 psi) and expect to get wet. If you find this was the cause, I'd recommend pumping some "Kool It" into the heater/evap core housing as stagnant water usually develops mold and mildew this time of year (and you end up breathing it). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007PHD0S/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4uMbFb1ZFGPRK There are several YouTube videos on how to do this (you wiggle the hose up the drain and press the botton).

See? Ford "does" have a sense of humor.

Great upgrade. Does the manufacturer or supplier offer a path for future Sync upgrades from Ford?

Bet someone in the design department at Ford got his ••• reamed for leaving that function still functioning. lol

Cept it costs a lot more. I simply don't see the value or need. (Shrug)

From what I see nowadays, most everyone I know uses a small Honda genset and Dewalt 20 volt cordless tools. (Genset recharges the battery packs). And not just construction, around my neck of the woods, most farmers carry a genset. It's just gotta be more convenient than dragging a truck around....

My laptop charges from the power outlet, video game system (in a car????), home DVD player (yea it's great to watch a movie while stuck in traffic, besides my MKX has a DVD player in the apim), small hair dryer (ummm, ok, but they do make 12 volt hair dryers), fast charging a tablet - most tables limit the charge whether on 12 volt or 120 due to heat. Point is, it's just a gimmick. If you need 120 volts, buy an inverter and plug it in your power outlet. I really can't think of any good reason to need one in this day and age.

Is that just another way of saying you sat around getting drunk eating pretzels and watching Gilligan's Island? (It was Mary Ann wasn't it)? lol

Like to ask, what good is it anyways? What exactly do you need 120 volts ac in a car? (Just curious why you would spend $300 for one).

Replace all four. The battery is only rated for 10 years.

Try a radio reset.

My initial guess is that one or more of the sensors either has corrosion in its connector, or, has become misaligned due to backing into an obstacle. More advanced troubleshooting requires pulling the codes as there are three or four modules involved in the circuit.

Tirerack.com is one of the goto places for tires and aftermarket wheels. One nice feature is, after you input your vehicle, it selects only the tires or wheels that are designiled to fit your particular car, and once you find a wheel that looks interesting, click on the "VIEW ON VEHICLE" link to see exactly what that wheel will look like on your car. (You may need to change the cars color in the photo to get an accurate picture). https://m.tirerack.com/content/tirerack/mobile/en/wheels.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwudb3BRC9ARIsAEa-vUvEFVpvBKdt8ccK1wM6RL6pZVtnCYHa9l9hBuevwZbJWwxW3k5XiEEaAtQBEALw_wcB&ef_id=Cj0KCQjwudb3BRC9ARIsAEa-vUvEFVpvBKdt8ccK1wM6RL6pZVtnCYHa9l9hBuevwZbJWwxW3k5XiEEaAtQBEALw_wcB:G:s&s_kwcid=AL!3756!3!315872893334!e!!g!!tirerack.com wheels&gclsrc=aw.ds

Because this was not the native system to your car, it could be a host of items. I'd begin by trying a master reset or a SYNC 3 reset. For th he Master Reset: Start by pressing the PHONE hard button, then choose the SETTINGS tab, select ADVANCED and select MASTER RESET from the menu. Press YES to confirm and the system will reset. For the SYNC 3 reset: select the radio. Then hold in the POWER button (center of the control knob) and the RIGHT SEEK button at the same time. Hold for at least 5 seconds until the display indicates that SYNC is resetting. Question. How did you reprogram the nav system to your VIN?

They are made as a single unit. My 09 came with standard mirrors. They didn't come out with the mirrors with the wide angle inserts until mid year. I bought replacment mirrors and installed on both right and left mirrors. Huge improvement over standard mirrors. Show cars in blind spot. Easy to change out.

Ever figure this out?

Try this site to start. https://www.floodfordesp.com/?gclid=CjwKCAjwrcH3BRApEiwAxjdPTY1rECwKEG1sBBXoNDidk5KWwRDk5FWxTo2az7w9AtRfgwOIBWAX4xoCV3cQAvD_BwE I got three quotes before I got mine. Took them to the business manager of my local dealer, let him go through the various plans, got his quote, then chose the best plans and asked if he would match. He never blinked. Matched. Then I asked what else he would do to better the offer. He offered $0 deductible if I had all my warranty service done at their dealership. I agreed. No up charge for the zero deductible. ($100 if I have serviced at any other dealer). If it's any consolation, I have a 2009 MKX and my current warranty expires in 2023. ! Full bumper-to-bumper coverage. (But it will be my last renewal due to age and mileage - snif). So yes, you can get an extended warranty with no problem. Just had my car in for a new valve core replacment on my spare tire. As they did a "courtesy" inspection on the entire car (generates more work of course), I was able to use that visit for the mandatory inspection. Otherwise it's usually $100. Just schedule the purchase of the extended warranty while your getting an oil change. The kind that has tire rotation and whatnot. They do an inspection on the car as a "courtesy" (wink, wink) and you can use that inspection in liew of paying the extra $100. Work it out with the business manager before you sign. On my last three year warranty I was able to use it for all kinds of weird stuff, like getting the lumbar seat mechanism replaced (they have to take the seat out and tear the whole seat apart to replace the entire mechanism. Care to guess how much something silly like that costs? And they found black goo belching from my PTU vent. The warranty covered a new PTU. And that costs a shit-load of cash. Think I used it 5 times. Got a new loaner whenever they had to keep it overnight (except one time when a loaners are out, then they got me a rental from local Enterprise. Got a new F150. And finally, as it's a Lincoln, abet an old one, I get a car wash whenever I have it serviced. And had a flat when I hit a curb and blew a tire. Called Lincoln and they sent out a tow truck and he changed the tire for me. In the rain. All part of the warranty. I'll tell you, when you get older, (I'm in my 70's) changing a tire, at night, in the rain, is a daunting task. Ever notice how heavy a 20" tire is? Nice to call and have someone else do it. Or they will bring you gas should you run out. Or jump your battery if it fails. This time I'm watching to see if the water pump starts leaking. I'm guessing that it's nearing its end of life. Figure that's about $1400 - $1600 (priced a year or two ago, may be more now, seems like everything has gotten more expensive do to COVID-19) and would love to get it changed under warranty. (Dealer drops the engine to change them. Faster, but costs a little more). Biggest fear is it blows while on highway and burns up the engine. So what's a rebuilt engine go for nowadays? Just today noticed my wife is having problems with the passenger seat. It stopped working in the reclining position. Got it working again, but if it does it again - poof, off it goes for a new mechanism.

If you have the 6-way seat: There are 3 motors, front height, rear height and horizontal. The way it works is, each motor has two terminals. Apply negitive power to terminal 1, positive to terminal 2 and the motor runs up or forward. Reverse the solitary and the motors run down or back. Drivers seat switch assembly terminals are as follows: #6 is front down #18 is front up #15 is aft #16 is forward #5 is rear down #17 is rear up If you have the 10-way power seat, there are 5 motors. The additional two motors control the seat backrest position and the lumbar. They all run the same. Apply 12 volts (-) to one terminal and (+) to the other. Reverse polarity to reverse position. Terminal assignment for PASSENGER switch is: #6 front up #2 front down #4 fwd #9 aft #12 rear down #1 rear up #11 backrest fwd #8 backrest aft #7 lumbar out #10 lumbar in (Dont have drivers). All you need is a 12 volt source and DPDT (double pole, double throw) momentary switches. I'd look for switches rated at 15 amps, 120 volts. (12 volt rated switches will also work of course). If the seat came from a vehicle which had the memory seat function, it becomes much more complicated. (For more complicated than I care to get into here. Even the motors are different).

When I bought my 2009, one of the items listed on the placard was a "theft recovery system". I've never subscribed to this service (never even noticed it up to now). Wondering if anyone else had this Ford/Lincoln option installed? As I understand it, the hardware is (was) around $700 to $1200 (includes first year subscription). I've read that it operates like GM's On-Star system (connects to the internet through a cellular network). Provides location like a lojack and can unlock doors remotely, etc. Introduced in 2008. My question is, where does the hardware mount? (I'd like to check to see if it's still installed). And if anyone is using this SmartAlert system, what's the yearly subscription cost? This page offers more information: https://www.autoweek.com/news/a2035771/ford-adds-tracking-service-find-stolen-vehicles/

If it occurs with just over the air reception, its probably do to signal strength rising and falling. (Not the greatest antenna on modern cars). If CD or DVD, only thing that comes to mind is fingerprints on the disk or run a cleaner disk through the machine to clean the pickup lens.