enigma-2

Ever get this fixed? Was it the Smart Junction Box?

Hey Auggie, what did you finally find out the problem to be? Was it the Headlght Cotrol Module causing the delay?

Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhh ..................... yeaaaaaaa. You been smoking banana peals, nikkinemo95? lol

Chuckle, that's what I was getting at. 3g and 4G on the same towers. That's the expensive part. Besides, they don't really own the towers nor the fiber optic cables anyway. So cutting out the 3G drops rental fees. But, why in the hell did Ford spec 3G for this? It was already slated for termination when it was issued. Probably had a two to three year lead time, but it would have been simple to spec 4G into the equation in the design phase. After all, 4G was introduced in 2010, and when did the first smart access car appear? Years after that. Speaking of flip phones ... I actually have a friend, who's cheaper then me, (ahem) and still uses a 1978 Simplicity lawn tractor (two of them actually, one for parts) who still uses a Motorola flip phone. Says he likes the simplicity (sic) of just making phone calls. Anyway, I think their missing a cash cow by not offering an upgrade. Dealer could change it out in 1 hour (probably less). Out of curiosity I checked with Verizon and they are still offering 3G. Was slated to turn off last December, thought it had, but they extended to this December. (Probably to match the other carriers).

I reread the ford lit and I believe you're correct. It is a 3G modem, that works in 4G areas. (I read another page where it mislead to believe that it was compatible with both networks). Ridiculous that they went with old technology (3G was supposed to be disconcontinued at the end of last year and it was known for shut down four years ago).

Can't advise as to your 2019, but on my 2009 MKX, the ambient lighting circuit is wired into an existing connector installed in the consul. This circuit runs on the accessory delay. (I'm uncertain as to what else is plugged into this connector). From the looks of the service manual, I'm guessing that the connector is factory to allow the dealer to simply plug is module and switch. If there is not factory connector on your 19, I believe you could tap into the drink holder lighting circuit to gain power. (The ambient lighting module is on whenever the car is running and not tied directly into the lighting circuit).

This was a dealer option and the remoter start has a separate remote. Talk to your dealer about buying one and programming the device.

Try running a diagnostic test. Press and hold the power and defrost buttons - or power and auto buttons - (depending on your options) for two seconds and then within a second or two, the power button again. Often thats all it takes to get everything working again.

Thoughts. ... You're going to take a $2500 hit if you fix it or sell it (by dropping the price 2.5k). If you still like the car, its cheaper than buying a new one. (This is when those pesky extended warranties come in handy). ? I had something simular on the Sable I owned (only the compressor didn't fail, something kicked it to shut it all down when the gas and oil leaked out). Even though it was old. I just bit the bullet and fixed it. (Loved the Sable, most comfortable seats I've ever had in a car. Great car, body/frame rusted out from under it.)

When your looking in the engine compartment, look on the cowling and you'll see the PCM (has three large wiring harnesses connected to it). Reach UNDER the cowling, (under the PCM) and you will feel a felt-like pad covering the bottom of the cowling. That's where the air intake is located (air drawn in through this pad. (I think). Because the back of the PCM is installed in this duct, I think they are using the intake airstream to cool the PCM and then its drawn into the hvac cowling through a rectangular hole in the dashboard (or more properly, firewall inasmuch as the dashboard is actually the steel part angled up at a 45° angle where your feet go). If you getting mice in the blower motor, they are inside your engine compartment. Probably chewed a hole in the intake pad. Check ALL of your engine wiring as they love to chew on pvc insulation.

Lighting has a separate warranty. (As does glass). When I was buying my latest PremiumCARE extended warranty, the finance manager was reading all of the other warranties Ford offered and was shaking his head not to take. (Smile).

Add transmission cooler. On my 09 the tranny fluid is routed to the bottom of the radiator. Also keep in mind that the frontal area of the trailer is limited to 20 sq.ft. without tbe towing pkg. (Goes up to 30 sq.ft. with pkg).

Probably needs an ABS bleed. Dealer can do it with diagnostic tool. (Most likely a valve stuck open in the ABS module). Happened to me a few years ago. Was in for an oil change. Told dealer I had a soft pedal and went to floor. After I got the car back an hour or so later, had a firm pedal. Said they bled something. Posted here and response was they bled the ABS valve. Never charged me. No problems since.

I thought this system worked with BOTH 3G AND 4G networks!!!! At least that's what they advertised. It's only the 3G networks that are being turned off. Most everyone is currently on 4G anyways at this point (how many flip phones have you seen in use lately)? Don't see what the problem is, as the modem in the car works with both networks. (?)

4th year + going on five on this Motorcraft battery. I typically get 6 to 7 years on them. IMO they are one of the best on the market. (I used them in all of my cars, Ford or not). Two years means something is wrong. Have you ever checked your charging system? Belts?

Re: Is it obvious if the fan assembly isn't working properly or cycling correctly, or would I need a code scanner? Turn the ac on. Both fans should be running continuously. If not, you need a new assy. (Buy ONLY Motorcraft).

https://help.ford.com/the-system-says-i-am-up-to-date-but-i-know-i-have-a-sync-update/ You must have P.O.'ed the Ford Gods.

Just do a search in this forum. Dozens of posts talking about subwoofers and enclosures.

From the owners manual: Note: Splashing water may cause the hands-free liftgate to open. Keep the intelligent access key away from the rear bumper detection area when washing your vehicle.

Did you check the condition of the cabin air filter? A clogged filter may restrict air flow resulting in the resistor pack (and motor) to overheat. Basically located behind the glove box. Empty the glovebox, remove the tensioner cable, cock glovebox sideways and wiggle out. There is a small (approx 1-1/2"x11") that unclips on the left hand side. The filter just slides out. (Note that if it's really dirty, to take precaution (some newspaper) to catch the dirt that always seems to fall off.

On my 2009 MKX all power points stay hot and do not time out (gen 1). However ("I think") starting with gen 2 they changed the power points to time out at 15 minutes. (This can be changed using ForScan. The value can be set from 1 second to several hours). If you want it on all the time, change the value to 24 hours. There is another condition where all power points will shut off. If your ignotion is off and the battery voltage drops below 11 volt (think its 11) the power points (as well as all other accessories) will shut off.

Go to an aftermarket supplier (such as this one) and ask them who is a local installer of their products. https://www.autoease.com/product/liftgate/ At least thats a starting point. Try contacting several suppliers for their recommendations. I doubt anyone here has done this in your area. Not a common conversion. Post back what you find out. We'd all like to know how you made out.

First and foremost, either the driver side fan is failed or the fan controller. This will cause the engine to overheat when idling and going slow (at highway speeds the air flow through the heat exchanger is sufficient). An overheating engine will run rough. This happened to me couple of years ago. Had the local Ford garage change the fan assembly (both fans and controller are mounted to a frame as an assembly). If you do it yourself, don't think of using anything other than Motorcraft assembly (aftermarket assys have been poor at best). Should solve several problems. I'd also recommend turning off the AC when idling and at slow speeds until its repaired. This is really hard on an engine so don't put it off too much longer. Als recommend doing an oil change afterwards. Oil may have cooked if it got too hot. Synthetic has limits too.

What's the consensus of how this is happening? I've never had any fog or mist or condensation in my 09 MKX lights. Front or rear. not ever. Having actual liquid water inside a headlight is a lot of water. So where's it coming from. Condensation? Leaking bulb seals? Cracks in the housing? Q. Are the pressure relief vent hols so small that water vapor is forcing itself in but to small to allow it pass back out? (Water vapor is a pressure. There's more force to push the water into the lamp assemblies than out. By this I'm assuming water vapor is a pressure, the inside of the lights are very dry, therefore the pressure is to go from high pressure (outside) to low pressure (inside). In relieving the water vapor inside the lens, it's going from a low (or more precisely "lower") pressure into a high pressure. A. So, (and I'm thinking out loud) the fix is to enlarge the vent holes. Or drill additional holes to allow better equalization. (This assumes that the housing isn't cracked or bad bulb seals allowing rain or road spray to get in). edit: Was Googling and found that the main cause is a blocked vent. Try running a small wire into the housing vent to make certain it's open.

Is this what you're looking for? (If you run your curser over the images, you can read the titles, i.e. no 1.jpg, no 2.jpg, etc.) Fender Removal and Installation 1.Remove the 2 screws and the rocker panel moulding end cap. {image 1} 2. Remove the front fender splash shield. For additional information, refer to Fender Splash Shield in this section. 3. Remove the lower fender bolt. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). {image 3} 4. Remove the nut from the stud inside the fender well. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). {image 4} 5. NOTICE: The front bumper cover may be damaged if pulled outward too far while trying to access the bolts. Remove the front fender bolts. Remove the front bumper cover corner. Remove the bolts. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). {image 5} 6. Remove the upper rear fender bolt cover. {image 6} 7. Remove the upper rear fender bolt. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). {image 7} 8. Remove the 2 upper fender bolts. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). {image 8} 9. Remove the fender cowl bolt. Position the cowl cover aside. Remove the bolt. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). {image 9} 10. Remove the front fender. 11. To install, reverse the removal procedure. If necessary, transfer parts.