enigma-2

That floorboard switch reminded me of some of my first cars. They had a switch like that to switch on tbe high beams. The problem with those switches is the rust out quickly (being exposed to the underside of the body and exposed to road salt/spray, etc.) You may soon regret this type of installation. I'd recommend you consider an inline fuse rated slightly over the draw to protect against shorts (when the switch terminals short due corrosion).

Daylight running lamps are powered through the SJB. Same fuse as headlamps. As for the add-on exterior lighting, you could tie into several different circuits. For example, consider using one of the power point circuits (they are hardly used anyway) and provide a separate, online fuse to protect the circuit against road hazards. Fuse at 150% of the anticipated load. ""Use SAE rated wiring in ALL automotive accessory wiring as the cheaper stuff is a fire hazard.""

Common among people who use meth.

They told me that the replacement PTU they were installing was a redesigned and upgraded unit that Ford had come out with. Designed for my 09 Zmkx (presumably 07-11 MKX and Edges). Hearing this i was hoping for a drain but they said no. Lead me to assume that they were using the same casing. One other point, local dealer now recommends PTU fluid changes as a regular maintenance item. Got me wondering if it was a change in FoMoCo view on problem.

According to the Weathertech site, there is a different model specified for the 2020. Checked and they also fit my 09 MKX, so I'd imagine they fit 08 through 11. Possibly others. https://www.weathertech.com/side-window-deflectors/

Had my PTU replaced on my 09 MKX last year, under extended warranty. Talked to service and asked if the new unit had a drain plug like the latest designs. They said no, but it was a new design, with different gear(s) and more fluid capacity. (Think that's what he said). Wonder if the new idler is one of the changes in the new design?

I talked to my local service manager about this a few months ago (before he left). He said my 2009 should be good for "at least" 150,000. We talked about doing preventative maintenance R&R and he said he wouldn't consider it before 150k. I mentioned that I had read about problems and he said Ford isn't seeing a lot of problems on cars where the owners get regular oil and coolant changes. (by the book). (I still have mine covered under a Premium Care extended warranty to cover for concern like this - replaced the PTU last year and cost $0).

Yup! Absolutely agree. Looks half ass.

There were two different blues offered in 2016; Kona Blue Metallic and Too Good To Be Tue Metallic.

Can't wait for the 2022 models with the HAL sync system. "I'm sorry Gary, but I can't let you drive this fast, so I'm going to slow down now". Or perhaps a mother-in-law mode where the voice comes from the back seat "Does he always drive so fast? Wasn't that your turn? Are you watching where your going? It's awful warm in here, I'll just open a window". Can't wait. Yup.

You might consider contacting your local dealer to see what (if any) seat reclinning modifications are available. Ford offers a wide range of structural and nonstructural options for persons with disabilities. Its possible that one of the seat options they offer might be a modified reclining seatback.

Did the shop check the power steering system? Perhaps a PS flush. (Because it resets when you restart the car, eliminates brake rotors and bearings). As you just bought the car, check to make certain the the plugs have been changed (overdo), tranny drained and refilled and coolant changed.

Possibly the lane kerping system informing you that it just mad a lane correction.

English Duece. Care to translate this?

First pull the codes. There are several trouble codes associated with the instrument cluster and with so many feeds into the IC its impossible to guesstimate stuff out. When it next happens, try "wiggling" the key in the ignition switch. Fuse #27 feeds through the ig switch to the IC. Possible bad contact in the ig sw. Also check fuses #26 & #29 for corrosion. Both feed the IC. Grounds (power and logic) and difficult to get to and you'll need electrical schematics to find them. ?Pull the codes?

You have probably already done a through search and come up dry. Because of this, I'd recommend contacting a dealer on ebay thats selling the module and see if they have the LED bulbs. (Doubt they would list the item and they never burn out and no one needs them). Bet they will be able to come through for you. Try this guy for starters: https://www.ebay.com/itm/164294491227

You will get an audible tone if the lane keeping cannot maintain due to lack of lane markings and automaticallyturns off. (Page 221 of owners manual). Lane keeping only works with cruise control when you have stop &go turned on.

We had two of these accompany us on a recon insert into the Ashaw Valley. Engaged and they came along my door gunners position, fired rockets. Could have sweared theh came to a complete stop midair when he missle released. Had to swing the 50 away to avoid hitting them. So glad they were with us.

On mine, it sounded like gear noise. Kind of a whirring sound. New one is completely quiet. If you can hear it, be suspicious Ford garage found the PTU was spitting out black goo during an oil change. New unit installed under extended warranty.

As she drives so many miles once a month, you might consider purchasing an extended warranty. (One side Bennie is free road service for tire replacement, battery jump and 10 gallons of gas should she run out. Also free tow to nearest Ford dealership should she have a breakdown).

If the tread isn't perfectly centered on a tire it will cause this. Tire manufacturers test each tire for balance and tracking. The best go to OEM (less lead weights needed in balancing) everytning else goes to aftermarket.

Before you begin, pull the codes. This isn't a normal situation and the car should be sitting codes. Theres basically only two parts that could be the cause (inasmuch as you have replaced the fans, twice). 1. The fan control module. I assume your mechanic replaced the module along with the fan assemblies. If not I'd suspect the module. 2. PCM. Try a reset. Disconnect the negative battery terminal and leave it disconnected for at least 20 minutes to allow the PCM to drain (internal capacitors). Once you restart, the PCM will relearn your car.

Area rep says its all good. (As long as you do a full acid flush and rinse).

Possibly this:

Talk about the blower first. The blower on a manual system gets its power from fuse F63 in the battery Junction box. Runs to the blower motor relay then to thr blower motor. The ground for the motor is found through two sources. On high speed, its grounded through the switch. (If its intermittent on high there's three possibilities. The fuse is intermittent, the relay is not holding under load, the motor is failing or the switch is defective). On mid-high or mid-low it first passes through resistors in the resistor pack. On low it's passes through all of the resistors and is always on low unless a higher speed is selected. The blower relay is triggered by the HVAC module. I would test the black wire at the blower to see if voltage is constant. If it is, it's the blower, or switch. If it is not, fuse 63, the relay or the HVAC module. (Relay power comes through fuse F45 in the smart junctiln box, another possibility.) I'd also look at the conbectors for corrosion. As for the compressor, there's no common point and you need to pull codes to determine where to start. Do NOT add more refrigerant. You can do real harm if you do know what you're doing. {Start with the codes}.