enigma-2

I'm still waiting for 1.4. (snort)

Sync used to have the limitation of FAT-32 (only, and it was fussy about the format, had to be a clean format, not a quick wipe) and a 4 gig drive limitation. (But others have used 32 gig without problems). BTW, some have reported problems with USB drives formatted with a MAC computer. If you used a MAC try formatting with a Windows computer.

Page 227 of the owners manual. Yellow means the system is making or has just made a lane keeping intervention. Green is good, red means something's wrong.

Sorry, didn't see this until just now. No, the batteries are not replaceable. Just one of those things with a 12 year old car. (I'll be doing mine in a year or two myself).

Was that the problem?

The lift gate reset procedure is for a powered lift gate. (Theres no mention of a non-powered liftgate in the 2010 service manual)? Anyway, this sounds more of a mechanical issue. I would try adjusting the stiker plate. From the service manual, loosen stiker bplts, reposition door latch striker plate from side-to-side or up and down as necessary. Tighten bolts to 18 ft-lb.

This has been seen before. As the paint is covered with clear coat, it would take a lot of chemicals to eat through and damage the paint. The real cause is a bad paint job, probably has a contaminate on the steel before painting. https://www.cbc.ca/news/canada/manitoba/dozens-of-ford-vehicle-owners-fed-up-with-flaking-paint-problems-1.3261390

The BA-7 costs more because it will do all the battery tests PLUS it tests the alternator, starting and charging system.

Whenever the wife and I go to the grocery store, she wipes done the interior of the car with a Clorox wipe. Leather steering wheel included. (!) Even though my county is one the smaller counties in Indiana, its number 3 in the number of cases; so we're overly cautious. This virus has a particular fondness for us elderly types). Anyway, these wipes are mostly alcohol, so I decided that its time to retreat the car interior with a fresh coat of 303. Including the leather parts, such as the steering wheel. (Especially the steering wheel). Also treated the headlight lens and the wiper blades. (Think I'm on year 4 or 5 for this set of blades). 303 is really great stuff.

I would run a CCA test on the vehicle battery. An old battery, nearing its end will cause failures similar to this. (A straight voltage test is insufficient. It must be a CCA test to diagnose a modern battery properly). This is what I use (there is a less expensive version that just measures the battery, this version also checks the charging system): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zenkFb8JP6YS4

Remember reading in the F150 forum that map update may not show the current version (even though its installed). Updating to latest Sync corrected the problem.

Yup, .... BUT, it says "Ford" on it!!!

Looks tome that the latch on the inside of the door can be adjusted in or out to set the latch depth. Look to see if theres an adjustment on the end of the "stabbing" mechanism.

Different cars, different options, different software modules needed.

My drivers door was squeaky. I used WD-40 dry lube, spray into the door where the strap goes into the door. Used a straw and sprayed well inside the door along the strap (top and bottom).

Is these the parts your looking for? https://www.lascoautoparts.com/oem-parts/ford-engine-cover-k2gz6a949a?origin=pla&gclid=CjwKCAjw34n5BRA9EiwA2u9k31-hb_INKq2jFBhompHFzNYM-I3p6AOXOSguAUypOg0zKg4-JYM2ohoC3-IQAvD_BwE

In leiw of adding air shocks, have you thought about using a leveling hitch? Work great to ride level. Example: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005SB6S3Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_xD5iFbMQYTF98

This is what I use to check my battery and charging system. I can recommend. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_Sw5iFbXWQXDVZ Did you buy a Motorcraft alternator or aftermarket?

Fellow in a Ranger forum asked a similar question and the response was it triggers at each engine startup. No way around it unless you turn off FordPass.

I have a 2009 mix and don't have any rust that I can find. I dont remember reading where anyone else had this problem. Didn't you once write that you use a hot air blow dryer to melt the ice around your doors? If so, maybe this could be a factor in rusting? If it were me, I'd would get it fixed before it gets worse.

?what akirby said.

Does adding a second horn overload the horn relay (or was it designed for two horns)?

Did you check battery cable grounds?

See if their willing to throw in an extended warranty. Three years would be nice. If they agree, ask them to waive the inspection fee. If they agree, then ask for $0 deductible.

How old is the vehicle battery? A weak battery can cause all kinds of strange problems. The service manual simply states that low voltage will cause the hatch module to malfunction. (Doesn't give specific examples for low voltage and there's no test for intermittent malfunctions). Its important to test the battery with a CCA tester, NOT a simple voltage test. I use a Solar BA-7. First time I tested my battery it showed it was failing. Had a coupon at Ford for battery test and had them test it to verify I needed a new one. They used their tester that only tested voltage and said it was fine. It failed at the supermarket three weeks later. Heres what use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0015PI7A4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_JaBhFb3YP2RZE but I imagine you could get a CCA test at Auto Zone or the like.