enigma-2

Did you check the condition of the cabin air filter? A clogged filter may restrict air flow resulting in the resistor pack (and motor) to overheat. Basically located behind the glove box. Empty the glovebox, remove the tensioner cable, cock glovebox sideways and wiggle out. There is a small (approx 1-1/2"x11") that unclips on the left hand side. The filter just slides out. (Note that if it's really dirty, to take precaution (some newspaper) to catch the dirt that always seems to fall off.

On my 2009 MKX all power points stay hot and do not time out (gen 1). However ("I think") starting with gen 2 they changed the power points to time out at 15 minutes. (This can be changed using ForScan. The value can be set from 1 second to several hours). If you want it on all the time, change the value to 24 hours. There is another condition where all power points will shut off. If your ignotion is off and the battery voltage drops below 11 volt (think its 11) the power points (as well as all other accessories) will shut off.

Go to an aftermarket supplier (such as this one) and ask them who is a local installer of their products. https://www.autoease.com/product/liftgate/ At least thats a starting point. Try contacting several suppliers for their recommendations. I doubt anyone here has done this in your area. Not a common conversion. Post back what you find out. We'd all like to know how you made out.

First and foremost, either the driver side fan is failed or the fan controller. This will cause the engine to overheat when idling and going slow (at highway speeds the air flow through the heat exchanger is sufficient). An overheating engine will run rough. This happened to me couple of years ago. Had the local Ford garage change the fan assembly (both fans and controller are mounted to a frame as an assembly). If you do it yourself, don't think of using anything other than Motorcraft assembly (aftermarket assys have been poor at best). Should solve several problems. I'd also recommend turning off the AC when idling and at slow speeds until its repaired. This is really hard on an engine so don't put it off too much longer. Als recommend doing an oil change afterwards. Oil may have cooked if it got too hot. Synthetic has limits too.

What's the consensus of how this is happening? I've never had any fog or mist or condensation in my 09 MKX lights. Front or rear. not ever. Having actual liquid water inside a headlight is a lot of water. So where's it coming from. Condensation? Leaking bulb seals? Cracks in the housing? Q. Are the pressure relief vent hols so small that water vapor is forcing itself in but to small to allow it pass back out? (Water vapor is a pressure. There's more force to push the water into the lamp assemblies than out. By this I'm assuming water vapor is a pressure, the inside of the lights are very dry, therefore the pressure is to go from high pressure (outside) to low pressure (inside). In relieving the water vapor inside the lens, it's going from a low (or more precisely "lower") pressure into a high pressure. A. So, (and I'm thinking out loud) the fix is to enlarge the vent holes. Or drill additional holes to allow better equalization. (This assumes that the housing isn't cracked or bad bulb seals allowing rain or road spray to get in). edit: Was Googling and found that the main cause is a blocked vent. Try running a small wire into the housing vent to make certain it's open.

Is this what you're looking for? (If you run your curser over the images, you can read the titles, i.e. no 1.jpg, no 2.jpg, etc.) Fender Removal and Installation 1.Remove the 2 screws and the rocker panel moulding end cap. {image 1} 2. Remove the front fender splash shield. For additional information, refer to Fender Splash Shield in this section. 3. Remove the lower fender bolt. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). {image 3} 4. Remove the nut from the stud inside the fender well. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). {image 4} 5. NOTICE: The front bumper cover may be damaged if pulled outward too far while trying to access the bolts. Remove the front fender bolts. Remove the front bumper cover corner. Remove the bolts. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). {image 5} 6. Remove the upper rear fender bolt cover. {image 6} 7. Remove the upper rear fender bolt. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). {image 7} 8. Remove the 2 upper fender bolts. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). {image 8} 9. Remove the fender cowl bolt. Position the cowl cover aside. Remove the bolt. To install, tighten to 9 Nm (80 lb-in). {image 9} 10. Remove the front fender. 11. To install, reverse the removal procedure. If necessary, transfer parts.

Years ago i had my 09 in for something (my have been an oil change). Mentioned I had a soft pedal. When I got the car back an hour later had a hard pedal. Asked what they did and said something about bleeding something in the brake system. Wasn't the brakes, something near the booster. Whatever it was they didn't charge for it.

I agree. I popped the LEDs back out. Too bright and too white. Prefer the look of the dimmer and yellower incandescent bulbs.

$30 https://www.ebay.com/itm/372956654857

See if this helps

You guys with older Edges. Ever think of one of these fog-light kits? https://www.ebay.com/i/401896662213?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-117182-37290-0&mkcid=2&itemid=401896662213&targetid=935065066747&device=m&mktype=pla&googleloc=9016241&poi=&campaignid=10459990476&mkgroupid=100467643141&rlsatarget=pla-935065066747&abcId=2146000&merchantid=6296724&gclid=Cj0KCQjwp4j6BRCRARIsAGq4yMEN9RO-tyZRTHV1VY44MXPMEYLojIgDZwucmdyFrgo0-EFFDxQkRfkaAq6lEALw_wcB

Those look like off-road "driving" lights to me. (No way they're fog lights). You certain you want to run with these? Tickets can get expensive.

Try asking in the Escape forum!

Possible obstruction. Check to see if either of the two "hooks" have been pushed backwards towards the tailgate. If you have a cargo area mat, check to see if the mat is out of place. Another possibility is a pinch strip is failing. Or the liftgate is no longer square with the opening. Or the latch needs alignment.

On man, its a bitch on the 2001 Ford Edge. (Edge started in 2007). lol Anyway you have to remove the front bumper. Takes about an hour and a half. Here's a video on how to do it: http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/12810-how-to-remove-front-bumper;-2011-2013-models/

I believe that the SDARS module needs to be programmed during installation by the dealer. Ford dealers offer a module exchange for audio items. I would call the parts deparment at your local dealer and ask about it. There is one (possible) "test" you could try first. Gain access to the module and give it a sharp rap. (Usual failure is a failed solder joint and sometimes a rap on the outside of the case will fix it. (Can't hurt a failed unit).

Same as the transmission fluid. it uses Motorcraft MERCON LV AFT. Page 350 in the owners manual.

I was able to change mine ok, suggest you may have mistyped one of the passwords (they didn't match) or, the site verifier felt your password was not valid. Try again as it appears to be working ok.

Ah hell, just carry it in the front of your jockey shorts and smile a lot.

I was being facetious. (Guess I failed, smile).

You have a room full of mud?

https://www.fleet.ford.com/orders/place-order/vehicle-special-order/vso-special-paints/ But the real question is, can you afford it?

Years ago I ran across a guy who worked at Buick in their corporate office. We talked about several things, very interesting person. It turned to the colors they offered on their cars and he told me they chose their colors up to five years in advance. It was based on how the economy was doing (or rather was expected to be doing). Certain colors only sold when the economy was doing good (mostly bright colors), others when the economy was tanking (darker, greens, blues, browns). There is a real science in back of color choice. A lot of money can be lost by offering a bad color choice. BTW, future color-casting was related to woman's skirt heights. The higher the skirt height, the better the economy. Skirts at mid-thigh meant a very conservative economy. Mini skirts, very liberal. I imagine this has changed in today's world, but color still has a sexual component. (As does the sound the door makes when its closed and the seat configuration).

CONGRATS! .... Clunk. (lol)

I probably don't need to add that nearly anything on eBay is fake.