onyxbfly

To be honest I did have two DTCs prior to being tuned...... 1 DTC was due to calibration/ firmware of my parking control module. 2 DTC was due to brake light attachment for tow bar. None of them had any impact on their tune. Ironically enough they even mentioned that to me when we were discussing my engine failure. When I asked how would these DTC impact their tune they really did not have an answer nor explanation. The reason why LMS can not enable the current gear status is because they use their own tuner and their science methodology with tuning. They may or may not have access to all of the parameters that HPTuners does. Lets say that they do. I find it hard to believe that they do not but I digress. That would require them to rewrite their tune and or make a one off adjustment despite other people requesting that feature in the past. That seems like something they are unwilling to do. Just like not developing a V3 tune for 89. They feel as if they are beyond reproach and that they are the best. They feel that they got all that they could out of the edge and there is no need to continue developing for it. I understand their perspective. You get the best performance/ most HP when using 93 why tune for anything less than whats they best. You're not the first and definitely will not be the last to want a better 89 tune.

Was your edge dyno tuned by them? If your ride never saw their dyno then it was truly irresponsible and borderline neglectful of them to tune your ride. Again not bashing them. But here is my line of thought. There are dozens of people who have edges and fusions with full bolt ons etc. In the past LMS stated that they would not tune them unless they brought their rides to them to dyno tune them. If your ride never saw their dyno they basically did some calculations and said something along the lines that these mods should net xxx kinda power and adjusted the tune to match. Unfortunately we found out how that worked out. Mistakes happen and at times mistakes can be costly. I judge a company not by their mistakes but how they handle them. Some mistakes can be rectified others are fatal as in the case of your blown engine. LMS Offering a refund is the very bare minimum that they can do. Its akin to a slap in the face, but they made an effort to do right by you and that has to account for something.

I love the mods. Do you have a build thread? Or can you post a list of you mods? How does it feel/ handle with the undercarriage mods? I've always been curious about them, but did not want to risk weakening the structural integrity.

@Xtra has COMP turbos. Drop him a line and I'm sure he will chime in and share his experiences with them.

Bone stock engine and the first mod I ever did on my edge was the LMS tune. It worked for one day and one day only! Thank god my engine didn't blow but their tune caused my edge to go into shut down....... Go back to stock it was fine...... tune it the car would go back to shut down. I'm sure we all can agree that is ridiculously dangerous. They suggested I change the plugs and I did. Same results. They checked to see if they sent the wrong tune, but I can't verify that on their end. Went back and forth with them and eventually received a refund! I initially refrained from posting about my trials and tribulations with them. I'm not interested in bashing them. At the end of the day they did the right thing and refunded me.

I would seriously consider a second opinion. I don't much if anything at all about the AC system in our edges. But I had a compressor seize in a Acura legend and the mechanic replaced the compressor and flushed/ recharged the system........The repair lasted for the next three years until I sold her. If the automotive AC industry is anything like HVAC industry wait (if its possible) until the fall (think October were still scheduled for 90s where I'm located) and get it repaired. HVAC guys charge a premium for servicing units during the summer. Also look into a private mechanic. You might be able to get them to take a haircut and a shave on the parts and labor.

Nice upgrade!

This is the same size battery that brother uses.

Certainly sounds like the OEM battery to me. Battery codes come in a variety of styles. Yours looks like it is DDMMYY. That would mean that your battery born on date would be March 14th, 2016. With all the bells and whistles my brothers sport has, we decided to go with a battery from a 19' edge st with start/ stop. Its a bigger battery and they will not want to install it for you. I think they do not want to be responsible if anything goes askew. 30 minutes later and it was done!

IIRC SYNC 3.0 is the highest version that you can upgrade to without using alternative methods of upgrading to 3.4. 2019+ Fords shipped with SYNC3.2 which put them on the upgrade path for SYNC 3.4. In case you are wondering what the difference between 2015-2018 SYNC3. The 2019+ APIMs have more memory. They are formatted differently from the factory. Which is why you cannot downgrade if you choose to peruse alternative methods of upgrading to 3.4.

There is a possibility that you have the original battery. The battery just went in my brothers 2015 edge sport. I would suggest going to advanced auto or autozone and let them test your battery and charging system. They will do it for free in hopes of freeing your wallet of its monies. Seriously though if your battery is greater than 3 years old you are due for a new one.

On a different note, but on the same topic. I reached out to cp-e last year and inquired about a custom 60 Duro. They said they do not have any plans for it, but they may in the future. I wonder if enough people inquired about it if it would motivate them. The cp-e mount looks like it should cost what they're asking for it. The UP mount is all business, function before form. Simply put the UP mount is not aesthetically pleasing. But as long as the UP mount does the job it shouldn't matter what it looks like because the only time one sees it is when you change fluids or tinker.

Would it be possible to record the noise that you are experiencing? I've read some reviews that stated a "hum" sound. I don't think that I have ever seen it described as "noise". Is it a drone type sound? If its not sweet music coming from the engine bay or nice exhaust note. I think we can all agree that we don't need any extra noises from our edges. I understand that sound/ noise is subjective and everyone's threshold is different, but this noise sounds if its in the unacceptable category. Hopefully it becomes tolerable after you put some miles on her. This review is the most in-depth review that, I have come across that compares the CPE and UP rear motor mounts. It sounds/ feels like the 60 Duro UP RMM may be the answer. (no pun intended) Granted he says that he feels as if his cp-e mount is 70 Duro. That would account the significant difference he experienced between the two. CP-E vs UP RMM HTH

My takeaway from my conversation with Summit Racing is that they will be available the 1st week of September. Shock Warehouse doesn't have the best reviews. I (like many of us) initially went with them because they were the cheapest option. I figured if they dicked me they can deal with AMEX! Then they will be on the receiving end.

Doesn't Ford know that it will sell like hotcakes if they put a ........mustang logo on it!

Glad to hear, that it sorted itself out!

I would gladly pay for Hennarot red or Alpine white or Laguna blue (BMW colors)

I stand corrected. Any day that you can learn something new is a good day indeed.

Part Number 8 Check out part number 8 they're few different versions (depending on your package and features etc) but they state with and without the tow hook. Ask your parts guy to blow up the picture for you to see if its what you need. Other than that the forum links that Omar provided you should def point you in the right direction.

Welcome to the forum. I may be mistaken, but I would have sworn that there is a sport bumper with a cutout for the factory hitch.

Welcome to the forum!

Next time it happens try to catch it on video. If I'ts not throwing any codes, the dealer may not be inclined to believe you.

Spoke with Special K earlier today, those are the correct part numbers for the Bilsteins that he and his dad developed.

No tuners are the people who provide a calibration AKA tune for your ride. All tuners use an interface to connect to your car and deliver the tune. You do not need tobring your car anywhere, unless you want to eek out th elast bit of perfomance and have your ride dyno tuned. Other tuners such as unleashed, BCB and ZFG will tune your care remotely via the logs you send back to them.

Sounds like you have everything you need for a successful SYNC3 conversion. Apart from the faulty SYNC3 screen and APIM. Once the seller sees the video there is no way he can refute your claim. He should replace the unit or refund you. You also need to have your APIM programmed for your edge. JMR061 can assist with it, if you can't sort it out.