1004ron

Until you clean it and monitor it to see where the oil leak is originating, its all guessing and speculation. Is it an AWD - if so it could be the PTU.

I don't think $8 is too pricey. I've switched to the K&N at $11 Also, I plan on replacing the drain plug every 4th or 5th oil change at $7 https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-FL-2062-Regular-Oil-Filter/dp/B010QU0SPU/ref=pd_rhf_ee_s_rp_0_2/138-5233908-9525115?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B010QU0SPU&pd_rd_r=f5c12ae9-7787-4634-a334-61cb1d191114&pd_rd_w=KxesR&pd_rd_wg=K26h9&pf_rd_p=2f64e549-0497-4586-8c63-7905e90fd6a2&pf_rd_r=CPFZCPE900VRWQSJEV0X&psc=1&refRID=CPFZCPE900VRWQSJEV0X https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01LAXYY02/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01JAU88JK/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01__o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Occasionally you may find used ones on eBay, but the local wreckers yard is normally your best bet, but not sure if that's the case in your location. Don't know of any other online source for used parts like this.

K&N's are manufactured in a few locations in the world, and it could be that the one is from Korea and the other from Mexico. The recent ones I bought for my 2.7L are made in Korea, which would be my preference of all the locations. I'd be OK with it if I could see that the anti-runback valve was silicone and the filter media appears to be the same material and number of pleats.

I think I share your opinions - keep it to just this forum/site - I wouldn't bother clicking on the alternate site, let alone create another ID and PW for it. The owner of this site must own the other splinter sites seeing as the other sites were promoted here, and I suspect doing this is more to do with revenue generation than a harmonious group of auto enthusiasts.

If a new forum/site has been created for the ST model, why bother to maintain a subsection for that model on this forum/site?

20 days since I last checked, and it must be the lower ambient that has increased the amount of separation, so much so that I don't think that it would make the 5K miles oil change interval.

A tip, when you come looking for advice at a place like this, take just a little time and effort to describe what you've already tried, and the results.

Always best to follow a diagnostic approach, which could have saved you the cost of a fuel pump and control module. First thing to try is a squirt of starter fluid, and if it runs on that it's a fuel delivery problem, if not, then start looking at valve timing etc. Check for error codes - Autozone will loan a code reader to you if you prefer not buying one. What engine? What's the mileage, and service record, oil change intervals, spark plugs, ............. the more pertinent information you provide, the more likely you'll receive meaningful suggestions.

I clicked new posts and only saw yours, not the previous comments about the latest Ford approach of doing away with the cooled feature. Quite odd that they can get the seat bottoms to work well but not the backrests.

We're talking cooled seats here.

I've got 35,400 miles on the clock and contemplating addressing the failure of the backrest cooling with Ford before the general warranty runs out at 36,000 miles, but if they don't have a real fix then I wont waste my time. If I did take it in I'd have them address the rattle of the two under body covers which I temporarily fixed.

ROFL Digging deep and still no evidence of these "gassing" parts.

You reported that your vehicles brakes are now repaired - did that include the replacing these "gassing" parts with "non-gassing" parts? Please post the details, part numbers and description of the non-gassing parts.

Many other members here repeatedly advised him to take the vehicle to different dealership because it was blatantly clear that they were incompetent, then after an uphill battle one of them at that dealership saw the light and realised what bleed procedure is required.

Yawn, You made the wild claim but cant post a single link to support it.

I did the first oil change myself at 3000 miles mainly to get it switched over to full synthetic early in its life.

I just bought Collinite 915 Marque D'Elegance Auto Wax and will report back in a few weeks. I work at a power plant, and in certain climate conditions and the emission control equipment not working as it should, my Edge gets acid rain which has etched the clear-coat. I might look at getting the hood wrapped because the etching is the worst on it. What's odd is my black Harley paint hasn't suffered the same.

After viewing this video, I think I'll stick with more frequent waxing.

When my Sport was a few weeks old I saw the oil covering my pan, and reading the reports on here I was worried, but it turned out to be the oil solenoid near the main crank pulley - my pan has been bone dry since the solenoid was replaced.

I believe the consensus on the RDU oil change can be found in the post directly above yours.

If this was a scheduled outage you'd expect that it would be announced and done mid week.

This is what I find in my JLT 3.0 can after around 500 miles. I can't resist checking it when I check my engine oil level.

Doing a little cleaning today and when I got to clean under the hood I noticed how butchered the plastic rivets and surrounding area is which can only be the Ford Collision centre that did the light replacement. You'd expect them to have the correct tools for this, ........ I have at home.

Direct interpretation: you don't have the facts to back up your claims. All we can hope for is that you stick to your word and leave it to the U. S Government.