1004ron

https://www.amazon.com/XINDELL-Microfiber-Windshield-Cleaning-Detachable/dp/B01CA0OVCU/ref=sr_1_13?ie=UTF8&qid=1526604211&sr=8-13&keywords=windshield+cleaner I use one like this, but you need to purchase at Walmart or AutoZone and check it out to confirm its the robust higher quality one - I dumped two that I bought online, then decided to inspect before I buy the next one, but that was some time ago and I cant recall where I bought it.

With no evidence either way regarding an existing separator, and no inspection reports showing intake valve fouling, its not really possible to make a call on the need for a catch can on these engines.

Is it possible that the 2.7L EB has this - it would eliminate the need for external separators (catch cans).

The water isn't going to have a detrimental effect, possible have a cleaning/decoking effect. I wonder if Ford has started incorporating some kind of separator inside the camshaft covers, leading to less oil being passed to the intake. Interested to hear from those with high mileage if they've had any issues with carbon build-up on the valves and if anyone has actually pulled the intake manifold to view the condition of the valves. There's been photos posted here of badly fouled intake valves, but it turned out they weren't from a 2.7L EB engine.

Are those images of your own vehicle, a Ford Edge Sport?

http://www.fordedgeforum.com/topic/20911-27eb-oil-catch-can-lms-tune/page-3 It was @Beez experience with one of the expensive kits that made me hold back on a catch can.

Howie, I appreciate your input, and as I said, I'm undecided on whether I need a catch can, and secondly what make, but some of the posters here were peddling assumptions (without first hand experience) presented as fact, and that I interpret as a "negative" review.

I've been undecided regarding a catch can from a few months before I purchased my 2017 Sport in March last year, and also undecided on which brand to use, and these posts have made me lean more towards the $500 kits, because they'd be far more value than a $140 kit that does not perform.

Nope, you haven't answered any of the legitimate questions, all you did was add to the list of assumptions trying to sell them as facts, and judging from the forum Moderators action, this is unlikely the first time.

Duplicate .........

What is it that gives this confidence to say that you're positive that its going to work, when we haven't seen a decent engineering explanation on how it is intended to work on our particular engine? Can you explain why catching from only one side is adequate vs the other manufacturers? There seems to be many caveats for why we should not be surprised if it doesn't work.

I haven't see a detailed explanation showing how the JLT can works to compare it to the other manufacturers detailed animated graphics/schematics - JLT don't really explain the true workings of their system on their web site. Haven't heard of any upset owners of the more expensive systems. This JLT one has perked my interest, but I'll not be spending any money on it until the operating reviews or good, or detailed explanation convinces me that it actually works as they have it configured on the Edge Sport.

I thinking the same, once I can confirm which one is the best value. The $139 certainly perked my interest, but I'm holding out until I can find an explanation of the functional differences between it and the $550 ones, and a few reviews on how effective it is.

That's the one I have - couldn't find anything in the OP's link that I'd use on my car.

How do I assess my cargo net hooks - what was the issue with the hooks that led to the warranty replacement?

In that case, I would do a compression test and let-down test, and while you have the plugs removed for that, check to see if any of them look steam cleaned. Seldom that cylinder heads, and head gaskets survive an overheating incident.

Lexol doesn't have much of an odor, and you can only smell it when applying, but nothing a couple of hours later. I let it soak in for a couple of hours and wipe off what ever might still be on the surface and it doesn't leave the seats slippery.

What I've noticed at the dealership where I bought my 2017, is that they're selling quick enough for them not to consider significant discounts.

If it were me, I'd suffer the inconvenience and find another "new" dealer. To the left of the top circle it looks like they rounded a nut.

Would be interesting to hear a counter argument from JLT Performance who judging from Howie's post, can undercut the competitors prices drastically while equaling or exceeding the quality and performance.

It's hard to believe that someone could come up with a product so far below the current going price, but it would most certainly draw a lot of interest. Why don't they rent a Sport for a day to do the mock-up?

I've seen photos like that of carburetor engines - what's the origin of those?

Depends on where its leaking from, if its the mounting thread, then re-installing it with thread sealer should take care of it, but if the oil is coming from the electrical switch section, then a replacement is your only option. If there's minor leakage at the mounting thread, its not going to give you false low pressure warnings, but if its leaking into the electrical switch it could be giving false indications. Until the actual oil pressure is confirmed, I'd not drive the vehicle.

What options did you order and what's the total price?

I would take a low pressure warning at face value until proven otherwise. It could be the oil solenoid valve that regulates the pressure, but best to have something like that checked ASAP.