Waldo

Yep, I'm getting the traffic, sports scores and the warning message on both.

It's not ideal, but unless you are exploiting the last 2% of your vehicle's capability, you'll likely never notice a difference. If it was AWD, I would be more concerned.

Yep, it's working on both of my cars right now too, including my MKT that has the older Nav/Sync system, not MFT. Seems that they give out these "trials" 2-3 times a year.

The compass itself is the big lump behind the rearview mirror on the windshield. Chances are it's either the compass itself or the wiring to it. On a related note, I once installed a compass/mirror on my Focus. But I messed up the wiring, so the compass only worked when the brake lights were on. But I wanted to calibrate it anyway, just to make sure it worked otherwise, but I never imagined how difficult it is to drive in a complete circle in a manual trans car with the brakes on.

It will be far cheaper to just trade in your Edge for one that already has the system. It is an entire system, not just a module and a screen.

Wiring diagrams don't really show what is there and what isn't. They will show you where the wire would be if you had the option, but they will not tell you which ones are deleted when you don't have certain options.

Why would you not try to fill in those ugly holes in the spokes next to the lug nuts?

It's coming.

Wheels bearings are clearly listed as covered under the powertrain warranty.

The software that runs the menus in the cluster is separate from the MFT software. The different versions and updates you do to MFT/MLT don't change the cluster. The MKS and MKX use clusters from different suppliers, so they have different software. Express-up requires a "smart" window motor - one that has pinch protection. If you don't have pinch protection, you can't have auto-up. It's more than just software.

The belt runs the power steering, the A/C and the alternator, so it's usually all or nothing. Good news is that is should be fairly cheap to fix and will likely fix most of your problems at once. (the roar noise is likely a wheel bearing, that shouldn't be too expensive either).

I can understand your frustration, I recently bought a used Lincoln MKT. I drove it for 2 weeks and it's now been in the shop for over 3 weeks. But at least it's still under full warranty (that was a big consideration in my purchase, the fact that it still had 1 year of warranty remaining). But to use the logic that goodwill makes a "customer for life", while stating that GM gave you goodwill last year yet you bought a Ford this year, doesn't really make a good point. Neither you nor Ford know the history of your Edge. Neither of you know if the issues it's having are really "manufacturing defects" or a result of abuse by the previous owner. There's a reason used cars are cheaper than new cars - it's because they have a much higher risk or requiring repairs. If you're having wiring issues with headlights, batteries dying every 15-20K miles, it sounds like your car had some kind of poorly installed aftermarket equipment when it was with the previous owner. It would be unreasonable for Ford to step up and cover repair costs for that.

The trick is finding one with the same switches as what you have. If the one you have includes different switches for the radio or cruise, it has to be configured through the software.

That would be illegal. Probably the front camera though.

That's a little misleading. It can only send 100% of the power to the back when the power is very low. Think low speed snow conditions when you're being very light on the throttle, that's when it can send 100% to the back. At maximum torque, it can only send about 25-30% to the back, no different than the current Edge or any of Ford's other AWD applications.

I once installed a DRL kit in my Focus and after that the car wouldn't start. Eventually turned out one of the wires I ran got caught in the clutch position switch so that switch wouldn't close when I pushed in the clucth and thus the car wouldn't start. Point is, it may have nothing to do with the HID kit itself, it could just be that you bumped something out of place while doing the work. Go back over everything remotely close to where you were working and see if something is out of place.

Ford agrees, that's why they are no longer there on the newer versions.

Factoid: The Edge and Explorer had those "boxes" to indicate the depth of menus because they were setup for the left and right arrows to scroll through the menus. On the newer MFT vehicles (like the Fusion), the up and down arrows scroll through the menus, so the "boxes" are gone. I think the Edge and Explorer might have also migrated to the newer design without the "boxes" in 2014, but I'm not sure.

Open the windows The air coming in the car will always pass over the heater core. If the blend door for the heater is closed (ie set on full cold) but the A/C is turned off, then you will essentially be getting outside air at the ambient temperature. But there is no way to keep getting outside air without running the fan at least at the lowest setting. If you turn off the fan completely, it will close the recirc door.

That's exactly how pretty much every current Ford is setup. Grab the owner's manual for a 2013 Explorer and read all about it.

Sure it does, just like every conventional automatic transmission, the turbine is part of the torque converter. From the shop manual: Turbine Shaft Speed (TSS) Sensor This Turbine Shaft Speed (TSS) sensor is a Hall-effect pickup that sends a signal to the PCM that indicates transaxle turbine shaft input speed. The TSS sensor provides converter turbine speed information for TCC strategy. Also used in determining static LPC pressure settings. When the TSS fails, the transmission defaults to staying in 5th gear, so you would certainly notice a loss of performance under acceleration. If the code being shown is for the TSS, then there is no further diagnostics needed, you just need to figure out where the fault is. If replacing the wiring harness had an effect on the problem but didn't eliminate it, then it likely means that the fault is somewhere in the connections at one end of that harness.

I would be worried about why it overheated though. Make sure the cooling fans are working and all the coolant is flowing properly, otherwise you'll be back to the same place with the new engine shortly.

The 3.7 switched to the twin variable cams at the same time the 3.5 did. The 3.7 in the early MKS and MKT had the same intake-only cams that the 3.5 had. But I think I was mistaken above in that the pre-2011 MKX did not come with a 3.7, so it would be correct to state that all 3.7s available in the Edge/MKX have all had the twin variable cam setup. But an early MKS or MKT 3.7 should be a straightforward drop-in, though I agree you'd want to update the PCM to match.

I'm not 100% sure that they are all exactly the same, but the 3.5 was used in the Edge, the Lincoln MKZ, Fusion,Taurus X and pre-2013 Taurus and Flex. The 3.7L version should also work if it comes from a pre 2013 Lincoln MKS or MKT or pre 2011 MKX. If there are any differences, it should only be in the peripheral parts, and you could swap those off your old engine.

If you want recourse on the fuel economy, call the EPA, not Ford. Ford doesn't overstate anything, they just test to the EPA rules like everyone else does. If you aren't getting the same mileage as the window sticker, then you are not driving in the EPA test conditions. That's not Ford's fault.