Waldo

You are wrong. I love how that article keeps saying "Ford says", when actually all the links just refer to rumors spread by "industry sources".

Window sticker content is controlled by the regional marketing groups. So Ford of Canada decides what goes on the window sticker of a Canadian car and Ford US decides what goes on the US cars. So it won't be the same.

The gauge sweep is a "welcoming" feature and is totally normal.

Quote from your warranty guide: During the warranty coverage period, Ford Motor Company warrants that: • you will not be charged for diagnosis, repair, replacement, or adjustment of parts containing an emissions-related defect. Applicable parts are listed under What is Covered? on pages 20-21. And yes, the PCM software is included on the "what is covered" list.

It's not going to be the air inlet, even if it were totally blocked, you'd still get air being pushed through the fan, your car would just be in permanent recirc mode. Does it only happen when you run the A/C and only after it's been running a while? My first guess would be that your problem is the evaporator freezing over. If you turned the temperature to full heat, it will melt and you will get airflow again. Then you can try to figure out why it's freezing, probably some sensor that's not working.

Rebecca is right, the 3.6.2 will work with either A3 or A4. It's the 3.5 version that will only work with A4. So it's kind of a moot point that 3.6.2 does work with the A3, since most people would have upgraded first to 3.5 which would have given them an A4 card anyway. The only people that would still have the A3 card are those whose car was built before 3.5 and skipped the previous updates.

Sure you do, it's standard on pretty much every Ford.

I once got caught trying to prank my frat house while driving my parents 1990 Aerostar. We were feeling fairly safe until one of the guys brought over the key from his mothers 1986 Crown Vic and managed to unlock the Aerostar and haul us out.

A slight misfire from old spark plugs wouldn't likely set any codes or the check engine light. The codes may be from something totally unrelated. Another thought is that at 200K kms you could have a lot of gunk build up in the intake, maybe a good cleaning would help.

That sounds to me like an engine problem, not a transmission problem. I'd do the spark plugs first and not touch the transmission. The torque converter locking is controlled by the PCM and there are a bunch of diagnostic procedures that you can run if you have access to the dealer's electronic tools. It shouldn't be trying to unlock as you give it light gas and if it did, you'd see the RPMs jump up a bit.

GM has already anticipated this problem and made steps to accommodate everybody. Was that first dealer living in a bubble? https://www.autoblog.com/2014/03/26/gm-ignition-recall-rental-cars-insurance/

Making a unique rear knuckle is very expensive. It costs less just to give away the splines on FWD vehicles. This is pretty normal practice. Your subframe has all the holes to bolt in the rear differential as well.

It's the opposite, it's good planning from Ford to make sure they get the most money possible. If 20% of the people pay $800 for the factory navigation or 80% of the people pay $200 for a nav card from the dealer, which one makes Ford more money?

Of course it matters if the weatherstrip seals. The only purpose of the metal seam in the door is to provide a surface on which to mount a seal that while adequately seal. There are many different ways to achieve that objective. One is to provide a big flange and press fit the seal on. Another way is to provide a smaller flange and glue the seal on. Either one does the job. Ford has determined that the first method is overall cheaper, but that doesn't mean that the second method isn't just as good. If you think your weatherstrip is the only thing on your car now held on by glue you're dreaming. Those black appliques between the windows are all glued on at the factory. You might find another manufacturer that doesn't build out-of-spec door flanges as often, but I'd be amazed if you can find any other manufacturer that will replace a customer's entire door when it is out-of-spec but still adequately seals.

You won't answer my question, maybe it goes both ways?

Have you measured the seal gaps? Are you hearing any windnoise? I'm still not understanding what your problem really is?

What do you mean it wasn't designed to be glued? It was designed to be attached in a cheaper way than glue. Glueing it does not hurt it's performance in any way and will hold it in position better than it was designed providing a better and more consistent seal. If Ford could afford to glue them all, they would. What about it's performance/appearance currently doesn't meet your satisfaction?

I don't get it. Is your weatherstrip fixed or not? Ford doesn't glue it on at the factory cause that would take more time and cost more money. The fact that yours is now glued on should be considered an upgrade, not some kind of hack-job.

It's one thing to have your VIN associated with having Nav and having it just not loaded correctly. It's a totally different thing to not have it associated with the VIN. It's all about software licensing, if Ford could figure out a way to make sure everybody gets what they are due, they could make it available. Problem is there are just too many people out there that would find cheats that now nobody can have it.

The honk when leaving running while taking the keys out and closing a door is a "feature" that was rolled into all Ford/Lincolns with IA systems over the 2012-2014 model years. Each vehicle picked it up at a slightly different time, some mid-year, some at the beginning of a year and some waited until a refresh came along. But it has nothing to do with the ability to lock the car while running, that hasn't changed.

Sounds to me like it was the battery that died first, then you had all your issues. The clicking relay is not caused by a bad APIM, it's caused by a bad battery. Now it could be that your APIM is what caused the battery to die, but I think the dealership was correct in trying a new battery first.

There are many different reasons why a car can pull. Without a mechanic looking at it, there is no way to know what the solution is. Sometimes it's the alignment, sometimes it's the tires, sometimes it's the subframe, sometimes it's just the combination of roads you drive on. The only thing I can tell you as a fact is that alignments are covered under the warranty for 12 months or 12,000 miles, so if you are under those limits, get it to your dealer!

Here's a simple question. Ask your dealer if your DVDs are covered under the factory warranty? If they are, then they are a Ford Certified accessory. If they are not, then they are just something the dealer grabbed through some other source.

There are two really quite different failure modes that cause PTU leaks. One is the seals. This is something that happens slowly over time, eventually the seals wear and start to leak. If you go a long time then eventually the PTU ends up with low fluid and can be damaged. Replacing the seals and topping up the fluid should be perfectly fine in this case. The second mode is when the PTU itself overheats, it builds pressure and spits fluid out the vent tube. Replacing the fluid is all you really need to do for this problem, there's not much you can do to keep the PTU cool. If it's overheated enough to cause permanent damage then you will know because the vehicle will feel like it's binding when you make tight turns. If the mechanics are convinced it's the seals and not just coming out the vent tube, then I'd go ahead and replace just the seals but also have new fluid put in the PTU as long as you're not experiencing any binding or strange noises. Another thing you could check is to put the car in the air and turn the front wheels by hand and check that the driveshaft is also turning.

There is no difference between the fobs used on Canadian vehicles vs the American ones. So if it works in the US, it will work in Canada. However if your original fob is broken and you only have one other one, you will likely have to take the new one to a dealer to have it programmed. If your old broken fob works just enough (when placed in the "dock" in the console) and you have another working one, you can program a new one yourself.