Waldo

I'm going to drive through a red light on the way home today because I don't think anyone else will be coming the other way. Seriously, you need to follow the manufacturer's recommendation, even if you don't understand why.

If the hub rings push the wheel out, then your wheel will fall off rather quickly. Hub rings should never extend beyond the mounting surface of the wheel. A lot of people don't understand the mechanics of what holds a wheel onto a vehicle. It's not the hub or the lug nuts that prevent the wheels from falling off, it's the friction between the back of the wheel and the mounting surface on the brake rotor/drum. The lug nuts just create the clamping load that creates that friction. The hub itself does not support any load, it only serves to help center the wheel when mounting it. But that's also why lug nuts have a taper, so that if you carefully install the wheel by tightening the lugs in a star pattern, the wheel will center itself. So hub rings are not really necessary. But if you want one to help you better install the wheel, then a plastic one with exact dimensions is far more helpful than a metal one with wrong dimensions.

If you're using the brake, the AWD system wouldn't have any reason to engage the clutch pack, so it would act like FWD. Take your foot off the brake if you want AWD to work.

Note it usually says 100% of available torque. So when you're just off idle and don't have a lot of torque, it can send all of it to the rear. But once you actually produce a reasonable amount of torque, it will be back closer to a max 50/50. The only controls the system has is one clutch in the rear RDU and individual brakes at each wheel. So even it the system engages the clutch 100%, all 4 wheels are still connected to the engine, so at best it will be 50/50. Only by using the brakes on the front wheels can it actually "send" torque to the rear more than 50%. I should point out that although the hardware is the same on all Fords as I mentioned above, each one is individually tuned based on all the different factors of the vehicle like engine characteristics, tires, wheelbase, suspension tuning and so on. There's nothing to "turn on" with Forscan, it's just different tables, much like engine and transmission calibrations.

All of Ford's FWD based AWD/4WD systems are exactly the same, how it's labeled just comes down to marketing. Escape, Edge, Explorer, Fusion, Flex, MKZ, MKX, MKT. All the same, what it can "get through" depends on tires and ground clearance.

Cause when people leave their cars at the airport for a couple weeks they like to be able to start it up when they get back and not have a dead battery.

I agree it should be the same thing. Taurus didn't get the TiVCT update until the 2013 model year. You should be able to move your oil cooler to the new engine as well.

Because Ford doesn't have unlimited resources. You don't just plug in the module and everything works, it takes engineering time and development and testing to add the feature. Doing a major change like that is very inefficient on it's own, so Ford bundles feature updates into new model updates. That's the same as strategy they use for every electronic feature on every product. The stop and go wasn't ready for the 2015 Edge, so the Edge has to wait until the next freshening cycle to get it. The stop and go was available for 2016 models, so because the Fusion was refreshed in 2016, it got it.

The old fashion way only works on old fashion cars. These days you're not going to add more power for a cheaper price than simply trading in for the more powerful newer models from the factory.

No argument about this, these are the facts.

There are many good reasons to run tires on lower pressures. As I was trying to allude to in my post above, you just have to know the reasons not to and be comfortable that you won't be concerned with those conditions. Lower pressures almost always result in shorter stopping distances for example.

You don't have to be smarter than the OE tire engineers, you just have to know all the factors they are considering. IWRBB, if you're basing your logic only on tire load calculations, then you are missing about 75% of the story. Load carrying does establish the floor for a tire pressure recommendation. But often there are other factors that require the OEMs to raise the recommended pressure above that floor. - Fuel economy. Higher pressure = less rolling resistance = better fuel economy. For the purposes of generating EPA rating numbers, the vehicles are tested with the recommended pressure, so sometimes bumping up a couple PSI can make the difference between a 22.45 and a 22.55, which means 23 instead of 22. - Handling. In trucks loaded handling is always the worst case and the goal isn't to make the truck go around a turn faster, it's to keep it from flipping over when it gets out of shape. One of the tricks is actually to raise pressure to reduce grip, thus allowing the truck to slide instead of catch and flip. Since Ford doesn't like to recommend separate pressures for loaded/unloaded (at least in the US), the compromise is always made for the loaded condition. - Durability. The pressure has to be enough to prevent wheel strick-throughs on pot holes. Obviously this is a bigger concern on low profile car tires. - Tire wear. This is usually a secondary consideration to the ones above, but adjustments can be made if strange stuff is found during testing. - Ride. Generally lower is better so the goal is always to get away with the lowest pressure possible given the constraints above So IWRBB, to be as smart as a OE engineer, you need to know which of the above is the one that drive's your truck's pressure to 44psi because as you've calculated, it's clearly not the load rating that is the restriction.

Not paying the license for the navigation causes real loss to the people who work for the company that did all the work. Their business model is built around a certain number of customers buying the software, then they divide up the cost of development by the number expected to be sold and that's how they arrive at the license cost. So when people steal the software instead of buying it, they are reducing the number of paying customers, which makes the cost higher for everyone who actually does pay for it. That's a real loss for ME. The fact that the software is "there" is irrelevant. The software business works on the licensing model, not the "it's there" model.

Why even pay for the SD Card? If you're going to steal the GPS software, you might as well look around a parking lot for an unlocked car and steal the SD card too.

Too much liability. Imagine if you leave the windows cracked and your dog inside the car. A brief shower comes by and the car closes the windows, then 10 minutes later the sun comes out and an hour later the dog is....

Airbags all have serial numbers and those are all matched to the VIN in a Ford database. Not sure if the dealer has access to it, but in theory at least it could be done.

Great news. Chances are the oxidation was caused by the previous owner spilling water onto the IP at some point, and not a result of Ford's quest for "greed and profit".

Ford is not going to be able to help you with this. All they do is buy the parts from Homelink. Here is the full extent of what the shop manual says: The universal transmitter learns a hand-held transmitter radio frequency code and stores the code in memory. It consists of 3 buttons with an indicator lamp. Once the universal transmitter code is stored, the universal transmitter emits the radio frequency of the hand-held transmitter when the corresponding button is pressed. The universal transmitter can store 3 unique transmitter codes at a time. The universal transmitter and LH vanity mirror lamp are part of the LH sun visor and share the same power and ground circuits.

Those sources aren't referring to Ford's system that disables the fob in the car once the vehicle is locked. Besides that, the system in the Edge is not an "active" system. It doesn't constantly look for the fob, it only looks for the fob when you touch one of the door handles.

Yep, just use the keypad or another fob to lock the car and the fob inside will be inactive, so no battery drain.

Not only that but not all tires are actually the same size, despite what's printed on the side of them. Variation from one tire model to the next even in the same size is likely to be more than 1%. So unless you've actually measured your exact tires, you really don't know what the real difference is. it could be 1% the other way.

Ford rolled in the IOLM in the 2011-2012 time periods. I think the 2011 Edge came out a bit early relative to other 2011s, so it probably wasn't included, but I believe the 2011 Fusion and the Explorer did get it. But yes, macbwt, your perspective is only valid for the older models, Ford has developed a better monitor system that does exactly what you asked for. They did that 6 years ago.

Just don't try to ask akirby how a turbo actually works...

They pay attention to what's important to customer. Very, very, very few customers would ever care about what you're talking about. Lack of "attention" on one part of the vehicle does not reflect lack of attention on other parts.

My vague understanding of the purge system is that it will command the valve open and thus expect that amount of fuel to come into the engine, so it might compensate by reducing the demand from the injectors. If the purge valve was not functioning, that fuel wouldn't be there but the injectors would still shut off, so that would cause the hesitations/stalls. But usually that will throw a check engine light or code.