Waldo

Sounds like an electrical glitch in the ignition system or maybe even the lock cylinder itself.

Did your vehicle come with Navigation from the factory? One of the ways to "hack" install navigation is to use VINs from other vehicles so that it works temporarily, but then when you update the system like you did, the system resets itself and the navigation is gone. If you haven't owned your vehicle since new, it's possible the previous owner or some dealer along the way installed Nav in a non-legal way.

Ford's earlier pushbutton systems did have three positions (like in my 2010 MKT) but it's so confusing and pointless. As noted, if all you want to do is turn the radio on, just push the power button on the radio.

Sounds like you need to go check out a Lincoln MKX. Same size as the Edge, more luxury features, still in your price range.

I agree with the above, it sucks but you chose not to pay for an extended warranty so you took on the risk of this kind of problem. And I totally agree that the best action for you would be to have an independent shop replace the engine with a used one. The good news is that since the engine is used on so many products, it should be pretty easy to find a used one. You just need to make sure it is the "iVCT" version and not the newer "TiVCT" version. I see plenty on ebay right now for under $1000.

The door handles and the lock rods are mechanical devices, there is no way that all 4 could fail simultaneously. Even if you removed the battery completely from the car, you could still open the doors.

Here's a plastic valve cover on a 1996 Honda Accord. It's not like this is some kind of new revelation that Ford is experimenting with.

You can disable the liftgate through the settings menu in the left side of the instrument cluster.

If your goal is reliability, then dropping in some aftermarket part that wasn't designed for your car isn't going to be a better alternative. The evap system is a system, replacing anything with something that wasn't designed for the system isn't going to make things more reliable. It's not just as simple as slapping a cap on what you have or dropping a cap system from an older car in.

Ford's using all that stuff (and more) on the newer models too.

You've obviously never actually had to do that on Ford's newer door handles with the newer key fobs. It's actually a much bigger PITA than it should be.

That is a strange set of symptoms. All of the unlock functions are controlled by the BCM (Body Control Module), including the keypad, so it seems unlikely that the BCM is completely messed up. When the unlock button is not working, have you tried the lock button or even the panic button? The only thing I can really think of is that maybe one of the sensors is bad and is basically holding down the lock button on the handle. That might block all the other signals (maybe the keypad has the top priority).

Every vehicle with an independent rear suspension should have a toe adjustment. The Edge doesn't even have rear struts. Sounds like you got what you paid for (ie nothing!).

Because people don't like to be carjacked.

Guess I missed the difference between Autolock and autounlock. From the shop manual: The autolock feature can only be enabled/disabled using a diagnostic scan tool. To enabled/disable the autolock feature, enter TOOLBOX. Select Module Programming>Programmable Parameters>Power Door Locks. Change all of the settings to Enable or Disable as needed. Autolock is considered a safety feature, so the Ford lawyers must have determined it was too risky to leave it in customer's hands.

Autolocks can be disabled through the menu on the left side of the cluster. That's on page 63 of the manual. I personally prefer the IA system as it is, I don't always want the car to lock everyt ime I walk away (like yesterday when I got out, took a load of stuff into the house dumped it all - including my keys, then walked back out to the car to get more stuff). What if I got out of the car to carry something into the house (with the key in my pocket), then my spouse got out, closed the door, went to pick up the newspaper and then came back to open the door to let the kids out, only to find the doors had locked! I'm not sure how you plan to open a door without touching the door handle, so I don't see how it would help if it unlocked when you got close. You have to touch it eventually anyway.

Just wanted to follow up and say that I did get my rebate even though the purchase was through Amazon. Obviously the promotion is over now but if it comes back next year it's worth trying again. I ended up with 10qts of Mobil 1 full synthetic for just $20! Wow.

The fob in my Fusion only lasted about 20 months, then after changing it the message popped up a month later. I thought "what??" and then opened it up and realized there are two batteries in the fob, and I had only replaced one!

Yup, should be no problem.

All of those symptoms are related to items that are communicated over the CAN bus directly between the cluster and the PCM, so more than likely it is something in the wiring between the two but could also be the PCM or the cluster itself.

Note the lack of "s" after the word "window". Only the driver's window has the pinch protection.

To make global close work, you need to have window regulators with pinch protection. Since you don't have that, it's not enabled. Would be kinda dumb to chop kids hands off when the windows close...

They put it on a rail car at the plant in Oakville. That rail car will then be passed through different junctions and swapped from one train to the next on its way to the next junction. When it gets to your local distribution yard, it will be unloaded from the rail car and wait for a truck to pick it up and take it to the dealership. There are so many variables that it's impossible to say how long, but probably somewhere between 8 and 20 days.

Yes, you're probably right that it would be the right front sensor, but scanning the codes would confirm it. If the sensor is still sending a reading but that reading is "off" a bit, it would explain your TCS symptoms but it would only become an ABS issue if you were on the brakes to the point where it thinks the speed difference is too great. If the sensor is reading "fast" - which it would be to explain the TCS issue, then ABS wouldn't take action since ABS looks for a wheel going too "slow". MY recommendation would be: 1. Take it to Autozone or some other place that can read the codes to confirm 2. Replace right front wheel speed sensor.

As I posted a while back, the feature was removed specifically because of distraction. Customers complained that the vehicle as a whole was too confusing and so Ford decided to reduce the number of features to avoid confusion and thereby avoid distraction. It's not a bug, it was removed intentionally because customers were complaining. As I mentioned before, I don't use the climate adjustments in the cluster because I find them too distracting, it's far easier and faster for me to just reach over and push the button on the rare occasions when I want to adjust it. Everyone has their preferences, but the majority has spoken and so the feature was removed. Unfortunately for you, you're in the minority.