Cerberus

Even with the oem length stud, they are a little tricky to tuck in there..

If you like the fogger idea, you might also consider the nitrous fogger option. A bit expensive and limited usability really, but a fun idea that was used to get a stock Mitsu 3000 GT VR4(?) over 200mph back in the day. Id be wondering why the PTU is reaching its safety disable temp, even with a cooler.

My mind is blown

wait.. wut? i will say that I have seen the temp sensor in the PTU on mine read well into the 2-teens, but never sampled under hood ambient temps Forscan will let you see trans fluid temp, "transfer case fluid temp" (PTU) etc but you might have better results by replacing the OEM grill with the honeycomb aftermarket one to improve flow, and maybe a meth fogger in front of the condenser or CAC

I forgot i had this pic too

Sure my Edge has the Vista roof / panoramic glass roof so these details are specific to my application. If you have a flush roof or an OEM half a rack kind of thing, your details will be different. This is a Yakima BaseLine system (that is a model name) with BaseLine towers (hence the model name) 50" CoreBars (which will fit, contrary to Yakima's info saying to use 60" bars) and two sets of base clips, 102 & 139, plus lock cores. The lock cores are not required but considering a nearly $700 total cost in the roof rack system for parts alone, it seemed... prudent. Pics attached of parts including part #s and prices. You'll notice different part #s used for the same items in some cases depending on whether the info is from Yakima directly or a third party vendor but the last 3 digits are the same. I purchased most parts through etrailer.com because Yakima did not have a few items in stock on their own site. The set up info for installation is vehicle specific, and included below, but hard to read from the picture, so it might be best to go to https://fitlookup.yakima.com/ for more legible info. I have had zero complaints about this rack aside from perhaps the price..

well that's the only one with my vehicle in it.. lol i took a lot of pre-dawn of scenic shots

took a ride to wear in my brake, took some pictures. total upload size limitations prevent me from sharing more than 1

reusing a copper washer is not a great idea, especially for brakes.. Copper gets work hardened and may not seal well after having been crushed once, unless you anneal them. As I understand it, getting copper hot and then quenching it will soften it (unlike steel where this process hardens it). Then the copper will be soft enough to crush further and be better likely to seal. OR, just replace them..

new front pads and rotors last weekend. carquest premium rotors and Akebono pads rear pads and rotors slated to go on today along with new rear sway bar end links since the originals are rotting away pretty badly. winters in new england are awful caustic..

Yep, that's why it only works sometimes for me

double press and hold of unlock button works for me.. sometimes

So apparently OEM pads (fronts at least) are supplied by Akebono (ACT1818 and F/G rated) they are available from Rock Auto for less than half than the motorcraft boxed part..

disregard. not relative to 2.7TT

???

Maybe some do. But definitely not always. Go ahead and ask me how i know

I'm at 60,000+ miles, soon to do a brake pad (only) swap, want to get at least equal grade if not one bump up from OEM.. But i can't seem to find the OEM friction grade info anywhere Bueller?

and this is why i do not trust dealerships in the slightest, nevermind having worked at one and knowing full well how they operate.

This was my experience with slotted rotors on my '11 Fusion Sport

this is very interesting, thanks for that.

As far as a DTC, my transmission has a big slide in 3rd, like it sometimes never fully engages 3rd. The RPMs stay the same while road speed increases, until just before the 3>4 shift, then it catches the gear fully, RPMs and road speed climb together for a second or so, then goes to 4th. Now, there are ways the ECM PCM TCM (wtfe) could detect that and throw a code.. but it never does. Sliding clutches for an extended widow of time under load causes heat damaging the plates/bands and heating the fluid. This issue should set a code. But it does not. I'm sure their theory is, if it blows, hopefully it be outside of warranty when it does. They will not even fully acknowledge it officially when i brought it to the dealership for this concern. point being, there can be problems present that the coded out of setting a DTC by increasing the acceptable slippage detection rate. as far as the commercially available oil pressure gauge.. that's a fair point. we all know Ford's sensors are not particularly trustworthy historically. I do replace the filter holder stem / drain port seal with every oil change so I have no reason to suspect that as a cause. good input all around, thank you. (to all)

the source is a digital Ford Service Manual in PDF format. you notice below it is specifying valve stem & bore diameters

ok, I am not 100% sure but i was under the impression that the "oil control solenoid" ( a pretty nondescript name..) was in the next generation of the engine, not in mine.. Now i have to verify and research further.

All engine oil pumps have a pressure relief valve as far as I know.. I've never seen one that didn't. Our 2.7s have a variable displacement oil pump which only used for couple years, replaced with an electronically controlled unit shortly thereafter. That's one suspicion. Otherwise, being an off lease vehicle, it's possible that the person or corporation who leased it did not maintain it as someone who bought it might. Also, it was bounced off a guardrail by the prior 'owner' so who knows what might have happened then.. cracked oil pan, loss of oil, but driven home anyway..